I've been talking with friends about the bound buttonholes featured on the jackets in the December 18 post 'Jacket Interfacing'. There are many good methods for sewing bound buttonholes, and this post discusses my favorite construction method. The samples are done with linen fabric. If you use wool, the fabric has a built-in flexibility that will improve the quality of your buttonholes. Linen is thin and perhaps a little less forgiving. For all fabrics, press after each step with an organza press cloth to prevent scorch or shine on the fashion fabric. If you end up with over-pressed buttonholes, use a soft brush to raise the nap and diminish the shine. Thin welts can look more expensive than thick welts; these welts are each 1/8" wide. The thick button is 1" wide. The finished buttonhole is 1/4" by 1 1/4".
Sewing Instructions: Cut a strip of fabric 1 1/2" x 20". This sample is cut on the lengthwise grain, but I typically use the bias grain. The jackets in the December 18 post were cut on the bias to make welts with interesting diagonal lines. Fuse interfacing to the fabric strip. Fold strip in half, wrong sides together. Do not press. Machine baste 1/8" from the folded edge.
The last and easiest step is to sew the buttons on! Be sure to sew the buttons on loosely so there is room for the buttonhole layer under the button.