Fusible Interfacing in a Blazer

I'm a big fan of hand sewing and quality sewing techniques, but I wanted to sew two quick blazers, which means the hand pad stitching and sew-in interfacings had to go.   I used fusible interfacings and quick hand stitches, only where needed, to construct the jackets. 

Welt pocket and buttonhole detail

I'm very happy with the results:  the jacket is nicely shaped and the collar and lapels roll nicely and maintain their shape.  I promise to set up my professional photography lighting equipment after the New Year holiday, so please bear with marginal photography a few more weeks!

Lapels roll nicely

 The second jacket is sewn in navy/black herringbone wool.

Navy jacket is made from a firm, coat weight wool

Both fabrics were purchased from Mood Fabrics online.  The jackets are lined with silk charmeuse from Thai Silks.com.

I'd like to show you how I built a nice roll into the lapels.  I started by applying fusi-knit interfacing to all the garment panels (supplier is Silhouettepatterns.com).  I marked the roll line and stitching lines on the wrong side of the garment front.

I quickly felled a 3/8" cotton stay tape along the center front stitching line.  The tape does not extend into the hem allowance.

I felled the stay tape to the roll line.  The stay tape was 3/8" shorter than the marked roll line to force the jacket to hug my chest during wear.  The ease wrinkles will press smooth.

I pressed the lapels into shape.  Folded hand towels are placed under the lapels to prevent a crease at the roll line.  Soft roll is desired, not a flat lapel.

I hand basted the pocket welts together during construction.  The welts are cut on the bias and interfaced with fusi-knit as well.  I used fusi-knit throughout the jacket, but you could use a heavier weight interfacing, armo-weft for example, if you prefer additional firmness in the jacket front.  Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you all, and thank you for reading my blog and sending interesting, nice comments!