Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Fusible Interfacing in a Blazer

I'm a big fan of hand sewing and quality sewing techniques, but I wanted to sew two quick blazers, which means the hand pad stitching and sew-in interfacings had to go.   I used fusible interfacings and quick hand stitches, only where needed, to construct the jackets. 
Welt pocket and buttonhole detail
I'm very happy with the results:  the jacket is nicely shaped and the collar and lapels roll nicely and maintain their shape.  I promise to set up my professional photography lighting equipment after the New Year holiday, so please bear with marginal photography a few more weeks!
Lapels roll nicely
 The second jacket is sewn in navy/black herringbone wool.
Navy jacket is made from a firm, coat weight wool

Both fabrics were purchased from Mood Fabrics online.  The jackets are lined with silk charmeuse from Thai

I'd like to show you how I built a nice roll into the lapels.  I started by applying fusi-knit interfacing to all the garment panels (supplier is  I marked the roll line and stitching lines on the wrong side of the garment front.

I quickly felled a 3/8" cotton stay tape along the center front stitching line.  The tape does not extend into the hem allowance.
I felled the stay tape to the roll line.  The stay tape was 3/8" shorter than the marked roll line to force the jacket to hug my chest during wear.  The ease wrinkles will press smooth.
I pressed the lapels into shape.  Folded hand towels are placed under the lapels to prevent a crease at the roll line.  Soft roll is desired, not a flat lapel.
I hand basted the pocket welts together during construction.  The welts are cut on the bias and interfaced with fusi-knit as well.  I used fusi-knit throughout the jacket, but you could use a heavier weight interfacing, armo-weft for example, if you prefer additional firmness in the jacket front.  Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you all, and thank you for reading my blog and sending interesting, nice comments!


  1. Your jackets are both lovely! I truly enjoy reading about your creations.

  2. Ann,
    Absolutely fabulous bound buttonholes and welt pockets. I am about to start on a Marfy dress that requires bound buttonholes and I would so love to attempt to make them as perfectly as yours Do you have this covered on your blog; or would you be kind enough to share your expert way of executing them??
    I only found your blog a few months ago and I have to say it has brought me so much joy.
    Happy Christmas to you and your family.
    Marysia Paling.
    I have been so confused by all the different methods in books for bound buttonholes/welts and I have never seen any as perfectly executed as yours. Honestly they are perfection and so beautiful.

  3. Hi Ann,

    Beautiful and your welt pockets and buttonholes are simply divine. Could you share with us which method you use, so that we may try and achieve the same perfection.
    I have purchased my first Marfy pattern and it requires bound buttonholes. I would so love to make a great job of them.
    Many thanks for sharing your skill and expertise with us on this wonderful blog.
    Happy Christmas to you and your family. Sorry if my message posts more than once. Kindest regards, Marysia. UK.