To purchase the pattern try http://shops.mccall.com/f2762-products-22790.php?page_id=3453 or http://www.marfy.it/mod.-2762-en.html.
We have discussed Marfy Italian patterns before. They are for advanced sewers because the patterns have no guidelines, instructions, seam allowances, nor hem allowances. Fit is close to the body and the size chart will probably tell you to go up one to two sizes above your normal European size (Burda patterns come to mind). In Burda I work with a size 40. In Marfy I will work with a 44.
I could see this design in leather, boucle, textured fabrics, ikat prints, denim, anything really. My main concern is that the shoulder/sleeve panels lay smoothly and without extra fabric folds. These are the fabrics I am considering for the jacket:
|Black/gold/copper boucle type fabric|
|Silk tussah from Vogue|
II. Muslin work
A test muslin will help me determine whether my fabric choices are suitable. I plan to sew the jacket in two fabrics, at the same time, because it is efficient to make multiples of a design. Ideally I would use the same color thread for the multiples, but that is not possible with these fabrics. The black couture fabric will be underlined in silk organza. The silk tussah will be underlined with fusi knit interfacing.
I traced around the pattern pieces directly onto unbleached unwashed cotton muslin. I added 1/2" seam allowances, grain line arrows, notches, and pocket placement lines. I used only these six pattern pieces: Front, Side Front, Side Back, Center Back, Shoulder Yoke, and Lower Front Sleeve. Here are the pattern shapes:
|Center Front pattern|
|Center Back pattern|
|Side Front and Side Back patterns|
|Yoke/Sleeve and Lower Front Sleeve|
|Marfy 2762 Jacket Front view|
Here is the muslin on my dress form.
My initial observations on garment front fit:
1. The jacket is too large in the bust, both at the princess seam and the side seam.
2. The waist is large
3. The abdomen/hip area is tight.
4. While the shoulders look smooth on the dress form, the garment feels tight across my shoulders and there is no room for a raglan shoulder pad. I want strong shoulder emphasis which requires a shoulder pad.
5. The two piece sleeve detail is a nice design feature, but there is no good way to sew these seams neatly and professionally (the lower front sleeve panel has a top seam allowance that hangs suspended with no armscye seam to join). What a nightmare it would be to line this sleeve.
|Sleeve Detail Jacket Front|
|Back view Marfy 2762|
Notes on garment back view fit:
1. Garment lays nicely but it is a little roomy center back at the waist.
2. Again, a little more hip room would be flattering.
|pinching center back at the waist|
I opened the shoulder seam 1" total at the notch to add room for my shoulder size and a shoulder pad.
Here I pinned out excess fabric at the bust. The side front panel does not need correction. The center front panel is where the excess fabric needs to be removed. I know this because the princess seam lays to the left/side of the bust center.
I am going to add circumference to the abdomen/hip in the princess seams rather than the side seams. The reasons are (1) I want to avoid a steep hip curve that would look unnatural and (2) the abdomen and bum are what needs additional circumference and they are more towards the center of the body.
Center Front: I added 1/4" to the hip here.
I removed 5/8" from the bust (black ink scribbles to be cut away) and folded out 1/2" in length at the bust. The princess seam will now run over the bust point rather than to the left of it.
|Side Back - Added 1/4" to hip|
|Side Front - added 1/4" to hip|
Center Back: 1/4" added to hip.
Added 1/2" at the shoulder notch, tapering to nothing at the neck and sleeve hem.
Added 1/4" to upper center back to allow extra shoulder room.
Removed 1/4" from waist (black scribble section will be cut away).
Shoulder Yoke and Lower Front Sleeve
Joined Lower Front Sleeve permanently to Yoke/Sleeve.
Added 1/2" to shoulder at notch, tapering to nothing at the neck and sleeve hem.
These are the shoulder pads I plan to use.
III. Cutting and marking three layers: fashion fabric, interfacing/underlining, and lining
Mark stitching lines on all panels with tracing paper or thread and a hand sewing needle. This is more accurate than relying on seam allowance edges that fray during the construction process. Marked stitching lines and the use of underlining (interfacing or organza) are the most important factors in determining the quality of this jacket in my opinion. I applied fusi knit interfacing to all garment panels of the beige jacket.
|use a ruler and tracing wheel to mark on wrong side|
|traced stitch lines are made on wrong side which is interfaced|
|the back underarm will be cut to the point; fusible interfacing is used in addition to silk organza|
|two corners interfaced, stitch lines thread traced by hand|
Belt: Stitch interfaced Belt and Belt Lining right sides together, stitching across point 1/4". Grade seam allowances as shown.
Trim the underarm seam allowances to 3/8". Hand overcast them to prevent fraying and hold them together.
This is what the jacket looks like at this point:
|exterior of beige jacket|
|interior view of beige jacket|
|note clips are done at an angle to the stitching line|
|black jacket is in fine form|
A 1" ease pleat was added at center back. Points and areas of stress were reinforced with fusible interfacing, similar to the fashion fabric.
I hand stitched the pocket flap 1/2" above the pocket. If the pocket flap did not lap nicely across the hip, I would apply small snaps to hold it to the pocket. That is not necessary on this jacket.
Here is the black jacket finished and ready to wear. The photo lighting could be better but you get the idea.
Don't be discouraged if you don't like to hand sew. The beige jacket is completed by machine and the results are still fine. Here the lining is assembled similar to the fashion fabric due to the complex seaming.
|Back lining with 1" center back ease pleat|
Front facings and under collar must be joined to lining now because I am not using a back neck facing. You can use a back neck facing or line to the neck edge; I think both methods look good.
|Front lining attached to front facings|
|hems stitched after zipper is basted in place|
To turn the collar right sides out, I folded the upper collar seam allowances into a nice square.