This pattern appears in the 2012/13 issue of Marfy Italian Fashion Design. You can purchase the pattern catalog at voguepatterns.mccall.com/catalogs-pages-1463.php.
Many Marfy patterns are available for purchase at the voguepatterns.com website, however this one is not. You can purchase the pattern on the Marfy website (marfy.it) with this link: http://www.marfy.it/eng/activenews.asp?idcat=&idart=67777&azione=list&layout=&CID=A151L156L220120627184512WRBWRYEVVOI08567752. If the link doesn't work, search the marfy.it website. Sometimes I purchase Marfy patterns that are not available for sale on the voguepatterns.com website nor the marfy.it website. I send a fax to Marfy in Italy with the pattern number, size, my name, address, credit card number and expiration. The fax number is 0532 752.390.
I love working with Marfy patterns because the designs are straight off the couture runway and the patterns are extremely well drafted. The patterns have clever curves that flatter the wearer and elevate the design beyond normal commercial patterns (Vogue, McCalls etc.). Sizing is couture meaning you probably will buy a larger size than normal. For example, in Marfy a 36" bust requires a size 44 pattern. In Burda you would be a size 40 and in Vogue you would be a size 14.
Marfy patterns are printed on white tissue paper and have a few notches and grain line markings, and no seam and hem allowances. It is easy to trace the pattern directly onto muslin and then add seam and hem allowances with a ruler. Also mark grain line on each muslin panel to assist you in checking fit.
Once you have perfected the fit of the muslin, you can calculate the fabric yardage required. Here is the assembled muslin:
|Marfy 2845 made in muslin for fit correction|
Next I created the inner corset pattern. I took the bodice corset pieces provided with the pattern and lengthened them so the corset will extend 2.5" past my waist. The additional length will be boned and will help pull my abdomen in. Here is the inner corset muslin:
|Marfy 2845 inner corset|
1. Metallic animal print brocade (rayon, silk, cotton blend), 2 yards 60" wide fabric for size 44
2. Silk organza, 2.5 yards 54" wide
3. Coutil for the inner corset, 1 yard 60"
4. Silk habotai and silk charmeuse for the lining
5. Contrast fabric for the neckline strap
6. Notions: regular zipper, 1/2" steel boning, 3/4" boning casings, 1" grosgrain ribbon, thread.
After you have fit corrected the muslin, disassemble the inner corset pattern as show below.
|Inner corset pattern pieces|
|Foundation corset layers|
Fashion fabric work:
Identify the pattern pieces:
|Upper Bodice One-cut 1|
|Upper Bodice Two-cut 1|
|Lower Bodice One-cut 1|
|Lower Bodice Two-cut 1|
|Skirt Front-cut 1|
|Dress Back-cut 2|
|Hip Inset-cut 1|
Cut these panels out of both fashion fabric and silk organza. Mark stitching and design lines on silk organza with tracing paper. Then diagonal baste the layers together. Here is a closeup view:
|Hip Inset - diagonal basting|
|Thread tracing and diagonal basting on Skirt Front|
Catch stitch hem on Upper Bodice Two. Fell stitch lining to this panel. Consider using self fabric to line because decorative fold will cause lining to show. The wide side of this panel needs to be hemmed as well; I discovered that fact after this photo was taken!
|catch stitch hem on upper edge of panel|
|Upper bodices joined|
|Lower Bodice Two added|
|seam prior to clipping and overcasting|
|Upper Bodice One is unlined|
|Upper Bodice One is neatly finished on the upper and lower edges; side edges will be caught in side seams|
|Upper Bodice One hand overcasting at pleat|
Pins show placement of hip inset.
|skirt front pattern muslin|
|Do not press lower fold of inset; this edge should remain soft.|
Join bodice unit to skirt front at waist seam. Press waist seam open, clip and overcast in place. The dress looks thick in the waist in the below photo because the dress has no center back zipper yet.
|finally the panels are starting to look like something!|
Stitch dress front to dress back at side seams. Overcast seam allowance edges.
Stitch darts in dress back panels; press to center back. Machine stitch center back seam from hem to zipper stop. Press open. These edges will be overcast after the zipper is installed.
Install lapped zipper by hand.
|zipper at center back|
|lining hand stitched to zipper tape|
I padded the hem for a couture finish. Cut batting (Warm and Natural cotton batting) into a strip 4" x 45". Pick stitch the batting along the marked hemline with 3/4" of batting extending into the hem allowance. The pick stitch is permanent and will be nearly invisible on the right side. Catch stitch the top of the batting to the organza.
|front of two layer corset|
|back of two layer corset has a zipper|
Add hook and eye to top of dress. Fell corset lining in place along top edge.
Thanks for reviewing this tutorial!