|Pattern Jacket Front - Simplicity 2339|
Simplicity 2339 is a great fitting pattern because it drafts a blouse front for each cup size from A to D. Most patterns are drafted only for a B cup, so larger cup sizes end up with gaping armholes and tightness across the chest.
Select your pattern size based upon your full bust measurement. My full bust is 36", B cup; Simplicity calls me a size 14. The pattern tissue front piece 1B says size 14 will make a final garment that measures 39.5" in the bust. I like fitted clothing so I decide to instead cut a size 12 which will be 37.5" in the bust. I am not broad shouldered nor thick in the neck so fit should be fine in the smaller size.
The pattern tissue indicates a final size 12 waist measurement of 31.5" which is more than 1" larger than my waist so no change is needed here.
The pattern tissue does not indicate a hip measurement so I measure the pattern front, back, and front band pieces at the hip, subtract 5/8" seam allowances, and determine that a size 12 will measure approximately 40" in the hip. That is a little snug for me and I don't want the blouse straining across my abdomen, so I measure the size 14 hip. The size 14 hip is 42 3/8" which is a nice amount of ease, so I blend the pattern side seams from a size 12 at the waist to a 14 at the hip. Change the front and back side seams by an identical amount; the side seams need to match in length and shape.
|Blend between waist and hip with a french curve|
Would you like to simplify the sewing of the collar and neckband while improving the quality? These pattern pieces are created from the pattern collar and neck band. The modified collar and neckband eliminate seams at the collar and neckband sides and move them to center back on the under collar and lower neckband.
|Modified collar and neckband pattern pieces|
|The 5/8" seam allowance extends past center back|
|The modified collar pattern is complete|
The completed neckband pattern.
Last step: create a sleeve placket pattern. Dig through your old pattern stash and see if you can find this pattern piece, otherwise create one to these dimensions:
|Cut 2 of the Sleeve Placket|
|Cut two sleeves, four cuffs (interface two), and two sleeve plackets|
|Cut two fronts, backs and yokes|
|Cut one modified collar on a fold (interface), one modified neckband on a fold (interface), one chest pocket on the bias grain, and two front bands (interface)|
If you don't understand how to mark your pattern pieces, you will be able to see the marking up close during construction.
Next we'll start sewing.
To sew nice darts, examine these samples:
|Start at wide part of dart|
|Stitch right along fold the last 1/2" before dart point|
|loop back to 1" above dart point, threads are still connected to machine|
|bodice front on wrong side|
|stay stitch the back yoke|
|back darts stitched and pressed|
|press one side of dart flat|
|press other side of dart flat|
|dart points pressed on ham|
|stand ham on ironing board to improve garment shape|
|What nice darts!|