tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-91676240112865891952024-03-05T03:25:36.970-06:00Did You Really Sew That?Innovative Sewing Projects and Techniques for Sewers of All LevelsAnn Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.comBlogger101125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-30631424076059727232017-02-22T20:06:00.001-06:002017-02-22T20:07:08.563-06:00Navy Wool Peacoat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: large;">With winter in Chicago losing its bluster I finally finished a tailored coat project! I've been wanting a traditional 3/4 length wool coat for a long time and the fabric, from Mood's, has been occupying an entire drawer for two years. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcU1Xw0aP972T24orZTaOEe-2KHU_9fIUwKVVtjIUXSxCuggd8eOuszKqf7VQvgPUivE_hyphenhyphenONWbbSiyAebn0m300z-Ax8sfpm_x2hk4eDPEksFXO_TAx-AqjVgoXRO_siZqmmJ0hVYDHox/s1600/Coat+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcU1Xw0aP972T24orZTaOEe-2KHU_9fIUwKVVtjIUXSxCuggd8eOuszKqf7VQvgPUivE_hyphenhyphenONWbbSiyAebn0m300z-Ax8sfpm_x2hk4eDPEksFXO_TAx-AqjVgoXRO_siZqmmJ0hVYDHox/s640/Coat+2.JPG" width="480" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">The coat fit is loose. There is room for a blazer or heavy sweater underneath.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Two vents in back for fun and ease of movement. The vents on the sleeves are just rectangles of cloth sewn into the sleeve seams, then pressed forward and covered with buttons. Simple but interesting, and easier than buttonholes. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhldd4p8gjF6t7qJ_DehgOYCBsNFAGmoHiQyttwvpICwsif5Lrm5dgwYHmIa8bsvPTot8QZZDoxDQjfe0c02okdgIakuq6OaHyMMrrpEkKhoj1HSFlquxRFQX5_rETZsXdwAMUOcAyTh3W7/s1600/Coat+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhldd4p8gjF6t7qJ_DehgOYCBsNFAGmoHiQyttwvpICwsif5Lrm5dgwYHmIa8bsvPTot8QZZDoxDQjfe0c02okdgIakuq6OaHyMMrrpEkKhoj1HSFlquxRFQX5_rETZsXdwAMUOcAyTh3W7/s640/Coat+4.JPG" width="480" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">With my full-time teaching job sewing time is tight so I will stick to simple blouse and trouser projects for Spring 2017. </span>Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-7633834051721769662016-10-29T11:28:00.001-05:002016-10-29T11:28:31.040-05:00Bead a Basic Button-Down Shirt<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicVwNbAHtDB8qlBp6PU5nbzB95SoJz3cr2tscLSBBFQxELKZniaKC28qXZg2Expq4IK9CLKppEZy67G5uXXygk7rW8R8KKzVBzXsJBx8drm_mvP8ZupGgNKmK-VdWfoJ6HH5GvphC-20Q/s1600/JCrew+Bee+Blouse.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicVwNbAHtDB8qlBp6PU5nbzB95SoJz3cr2tscLSBBFQxELKZniaKC28qXZg2Expq4IK9CLKppEZy67G5uXXygk7rW8R8KKzVBzXsJBx8drm_mvP8ZupGgNKmK-VdWfoJ6HH5GvphC-20Q/s640/JCrew+Bee+Blouse.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I fell in love with this $100 blouse sold out at J. Crew recently. A blue and white stripe button down with jeweled bees fits nicely in my casual wardrobe. Each bee is embroidered with unique-shaped beads. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ9c12ISfaCEoszdLPNS8YGYNy0idJGw6jfs4Tkfk-PDDGzUG9hbjlta5RGmqKI_QtzKSlHkJtT5SmdyMF02jNCemUVbykd1XufArEe1lNiszkKn7-cOlX_4pqdec10CmDDtkF4PqE0No/s1600/Bee+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ9c12ISfaCEoszdLPNS8YGYNy0idJGw6jfs4Tkfk-PDDGzUG9hbjlta5RGmqKI_QtzKSlHkJtT5SmdyMF02jNCemUVbykd1XufArEe1lNiszkKn7-cOlX_4pqdec10CmDDtkF4PqE0No/s400/Bee+1.jpg" width="298" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEWZm3Gj3AS0EFzk8BacMLK8B93WpNdTcPx5KYMx5WttTo4bZvawJFhs3-3f867rsuQou4CaiJnuMez_YukbCIjlTZFVIfgUVN4NyMq6Vq-Vu7iiLNUZfpYCklToAXOsjtbhpuWsy_L98/s1600/Bee+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEWZm3Gj3AS0EFzk8BacMLK8B93WpNdTcPx5KYMx5WttTo4bZvawJFhs3-3f867rsuQou4CaiJnuMez_YukbCIjlTZFVIfgUVN4NyMq6Vq-Vu7iiLNUZfpYCklToAXOsjtbhpuWsy_L98/s400/Bee+3.jpg" width="297" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Since the fall is a busy time for me as a teacher, I am sewing relatively simple projects in my limited sewing time. I recreated the bee blouse first with a white linen from Vogue Fabrics. The bees are $6 worth of iron-on transfers purchased recently at a sewing expo.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeWv_hhs2zROWZWEtvnAiGQqeFRQj6jQnfwmPVRGR1NiGZqp5vTyN4vPKJ_G-lmQDBxeBmTt9bOeU0FDxbD1uY1CBLIq_qzGRHV0FColzNBSTHai97K_MxpDO8TNeHw7msVJbU4CV84hc/s1600/White+Blouse+Front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeWv_hhs2zROWZWEtvnAiGQqeFRQj6jQnfwmPVRGR1NiGZqp5vTyN4vPKJ_G-lmQDBxeBmTt9bOeU0FDxbD1uY1CBLIq_qzGRHV0FColzNBSTHai97K_MxpDO8TNeHw7msVJbU4CV84hc/s640/White+Blouse+Front.jpg" width="478" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">While I prefer the multi-faceted beads used by J. Crew, I didn't feel I had the time to source them nor did I want to spend much on the embellishment.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8hoOGAUQpY04BzNO7bpMfGUc_iiyW3xfHVon8txkTajNI03bD9CJyDKxhPZVmeNLJfZew_zNvX4XlcczkCCfMevyFOWnoLjH0rHicf34TOb6Cput9dW8IIFt7Vv1Uw_cRYNbdWuSyoPE/s1600/White+Blouse+Bees.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8hoOGAUQpY04BzNO7bpMfGUc_iiyW3xfHVon8txkTajNI03bD9CJyDKxhPZVmeNLJfZew_zNvX4XlcczkCCfMevyFOWnoLjH0rHicf34TOb6Cput9dW8IIFt7Vv1Uw_cRYNbdWuSyoPE/s640/White+Blouse+Bees.jpg" width="476" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Bee Embellishment</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">In my button stash are satin bridal buttons from my custom sewing days. They raise the style of the blouse from basic to a little special. The buttons are spaced closely to prevent gaps and also to embellish the blouse.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5P0X9zD5oLLFaq6w9BGhomVyFZb_gHnZKjIufIRlmHfq0oCXXQmuiSVfqEG1phrb_lp52SZbJ0xehzBlBFdq5VIYOFvD0lUP-ZeUhQo-711tKH9rn7FsADP1XS8sNAeKkpcYBCpukDfw/s1600/White+Blouse+Buttons+Bees.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5P0X9zD5oLLFaq6w9BGhomVyFZb_gHnZKjIufIRlmHfq0oCXXQmuiSVfqEG1phrb_lp52SZbJ0xehzBlBFdq5VIYOFvD0lUP-ZeUhQo-711tKH9rn7FsADP1XS8sNAeKkpcYBCpukDfw/s640/White+Blouse+Buttons+Bees.jpg" width="476" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Today is a beautiful, breezy fall day as you can see in the photo.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6XzXnqMIb9shS_PnyaCXCd4dKMgzI-ifL_XEI3BwkTZ59S4IS7T_6PWxpGUhJCAlfs6oF6G2uzeztpVMTvougQT4YCbLuh3hn_Ee5eXjw1Fkohrj_eN7dV9g6dZN55RnxArELzRE9vRk/s1600/White+Blouse+Back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6XzXnqMIb9shS_PnyaCXCd4dKMgzI-ifL_XEI3BwkTZ59S4IS7T_6PWxpGUhJCAlfs6oF6G2uzeztpVMTvougQT4YCbLuh3hn_Ee5eXjw1Fkohrj_eN7dV9g6dZN55RnxArELzRE9vRk/s640/White+Blouse+Back.jpg" width="478" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">The blouse pattern is Butterick 6097. If you are interested in the <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">blouse construction details, I have created a <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">3-part tu<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">torial that features photos of each construction step. See the Index on the right column of the blog.</span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I had a vintage-inspired cotton print purchased from the Vogue Fabrics bimonthly swatch club. It stitched up nicely into a duplicate blouse.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9qc7s9AZhxQTrygqLG0OpLRsFPMMp-En267Vugq6aJLOgowgJfxOH16Ntdxf54gc22XwYDPdSc7tVmxfyktDmzTaIrNtQRXrbPqTf1G0_-BaK-gu_MArMo4IK0IYIt0EdcSuqrmdUTQ0/s1600/Blue+Front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9qc7s9AZhxQTrygqLG0OpLRsFPMMp-En267Vugq6aJLOgowgJfxOH16Ntdxf54gc22XwYDPdSc7tVmxfyktDmzTaIrNtQRXrbPqTf1G0_-BaK-gu_MArMo4IK0IYIt0EdcSuqrmdUTQ0/s640/Blue+Front.jpg" width="478" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I used bronze beads I had in my stash to add subtle interest. Again, I did not feel I had time to do a serious bead search. I used materials I already owned which feels nice.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb2xDhhP4meMMZ8uqNkXgT8IDDIge0uvT6tokuROAKtCdUH1y7kjyH7dh5GeJjXu_xrEvuKdM49VKUAXoUBUszoCcJT9cp_fX8SPHubdPsv1wA73eTOop59WPgfRsESLJnSW5qap32W-o/s1600/Blue+Beading.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb2xDhhP4meMMZ8uqNkXgT8IDDIge0uvT6tokuROAKtCdUH1y7kjyH7dh5GeJjXu_xrEvuKdM49VKUAXoUBUszoCcJT9cp_fX8SPHubdPsv1wA73eTOop59WPgfRsESLJnSW5qap32W-o/s400/Blue+Beading.jpg" width="298" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I covered the buttons in self-fabric. It was too hard to find buttons that worked with the fabric. I like 3/8" buttons for blouses though 1/2" is sometimes okay. I don't like the heaviness that a larger button can add to the look of a blouse.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGNZ6YDIl3jFmxXWL4AjLgIZi32slqiYVZ3-xZOZdfY6kRgyyDpYpidjaBbtuU_iQKPKRiecRYJ7QH5nduEz39uLBYSzumouBRYaRWq6ymU_RYFl1Pp51ohbZDt8VmNYxhTz-KH6m7Dx0/s1600/Blue+Buttons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGNZ6YDIl3jFmxXWL4AjLgIZi32slqiYVZ3-xZOZdfY6kRgyyDpYpidjaBbtuU_iQKPKRiecRYJ7QH5nduEz39uLBYSzumouBRYaRWq6ymU_RYFl1Pp51ohbZDt8VmNYxhTz-KH6m7Dx0/s400/Blue+Buttons.jpg" width="298" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">The pattern has lovely shape due to the waist seam and front and back princess seams.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv2vv5OqiQ1ND2ZnG79cZYYHGUz4kwwrnoqtaRoPbd7URZ02Izw8U1KlN_3K57zT0C-tUCn8Pp-Wgy8x-BoeFweRP-f-O9qU12Ej4rAOFk1bsfULBm5X1Th_DlCNGks8ym8jcWykzNCvQ/s1600/Blue+Back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv2vv5OqiQ1ND2ZnG79cZYYHGUz4kwwrnoqtaRoPbd7URZ02Izw8U1KlN_3K57zT0C-tUCn8Pp-Wgy8x-BoeFweRP-f-O9qU12Ej4rAOFk1bsfULBm5X1Th_DlCNGks8ym8jcWykzNCvQ/s640/Blue+Back.jpg" width="478" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I made a muslin over the summer. A muslin for a fitted shirt is essential even if I have sewn from a given pattern line. A well-fitted shirt can work for years and I have favorite blouses in my wardrobe that were made more than twenty years ago. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I start with a full-body muslin with no sleeves.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDKqWWAfgAN403MKixw-JdiFNCZQ-qjiSUz-w9PcUKbRtdtgBDrOSbxcJPiQau5ff6IA1YDrY5nqrFjyAcDDlWVihoGNTCDLiy7f-Wxuf6YDXB2K_gygpGLzc-Dk0Yd3EjULnhsbumBZc/s1600/Blouse+muslin+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDKqWWAfgAN403MKixw-JdiFNCZQ-qjiSUz-w9PcUKbRtdtgBDrOSbxcJPiQau5ff6IA1YDrY5nqrFjyAcDDlWVihoGNTCDLiy7f-Wxuf6YDXB2K_gygpGLzc-Dk0Yd3EjULnhsbumBZc/s320/Blouse+muslin+1.jpg" width="239" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Fit of front, side, and back are checked and corrected.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNl-D2Zlx-T6dwCxJjq7m3Xrha9VZHfoxGBr6rjv4Q1N4z4HcLGHxkRXDgfncxGFTTrLeIXS3gt4S5WNpQzs9bqXR0FL1nZe-cgaiueABW23xxKnfGJEt4v8v9o2wZerHQJocty5eTRgs/s1600/Blouse+muslin+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNl-D2Zlx-T6dwCxJjq7m3Xrha9VZHfoxGBr6rjv4Q1N4z4HcLGHxkRXDgfncxGFTTrLeIXS3gt4S5WNpQzs9bqXR0FL1nZe-cgaiueABW23xxKnfGJEt4v8v9o2wZerHQJocty5eTRgs/s320/Blouse+muslin+2.jpg" width="239" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjapiFj-CwZtRNg2fmuBfGCk-LYhsU8DMx7oH9p7oJaYoY0x_VOjhjnOr7QFb0ypj3YJvuYj9PvsFecLEPTIxfWf_a0gXpP_Tt8RgJsWuGT2egyaINp9y7vRauyoR1W-UL3KfmcdH7cBHU/s1600/Blouse+muslin+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjapiFj-CwZtRNg2fmuBfGCk-LYhsU8DMx7oH9p7oJaYoY0x_VOjhjnOr7QFb0ypj3YJvuYj9PvsFecLEPTIxfWf_a0gXpP_Tt8RgJsWuGT2egyaINp9y7vRauyoR1W-UL3KfmcdH7cBHU/s320/Blouse+muslin+3.jpg" width="239" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Sleeves are then added. Sleeves can highlight shoulder length issues so I always add both sleeves which is extra work I would prefer to not do. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-cpy7SVNgMymTH0SaSs5s7IEd3mEjAJUuc1zmNcCo97mTdcpuOi-9YHohLotdZY4MNSnSSngT5csh_MpDrJj4n-MUnA49sGqp__2K8wBSgR_DJTNIXQaPOq_n56zqcreaw81Qvr-4AGY/s1600/Blouse+muslin+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-cpy7SVNgMymTH0SaSs5s7IEd3mEjAJUuc1zmNcCo97mTdcpuOi-9YHohLotdZY4MNSnSSngT5csh_MpDrJj4n-MUnA49sGqp__2K8wBSgR_DJTNIXQaPOq_n56zqcreaw81Qvr-4AGY/s320/Blouse+muslin+6.jpg" width="239" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Enjoy the mile fall weather this year, at least in Chicago!</span></span>Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-2241527054908528562016-08-21T10:48:00.000-05:002016-08-21T10:48:30.526-05:00My Fabric Stash<span style="font-size: large;">I enjoy visiting friends who sew and I always ask to see their fabric stash. A fabric stash is like an art collection no matter the size or type of projects made. This summer I cleaned out my entire house and you might be surprised at the relatively small size of my stash given I had a dressmaking business for many years. All fabrics are stored in this tall cabinet.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiphrm8YHp6GkiIobxnOJ1QE6tiq8A8L-2b6juHJB4ehZUfVLaDbi8bCoXozxt19PNAgEvEIfx67dq-9PXr8PKF2hRUJbPIuoN9Gz6HyIPYNvUl6PT8Rp_1lJ8HBD9VZYq1MbvLjRJBRXw/s1600/Stash+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiphrm8YHp6GkiIobxnOJ1QE6tiq8A8L-2b6juHJB4ehZUfVLaDbi8bCoXozxt19PNAgEvEIfx67dq-9PXr8PKF2hRUJbPIuoN9Gz6HyIPYNvUl6PT8Rp_1lJ8HBD9VZYq1MbvLjRJBRXw/s640/Stash+1.jpg" width="404" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">My stash is the top shelf of the cabinet. The left column are knits, the center column are wovens, and the right column are couture fabrics. The second shelf contains three years of Burda Style magazine, interfacing, muslin, and sewing books. One bulky coating fabric and one faux fur cut are stored elsewhere.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeKTxBrE-tcMbdVO5YMZgHo0q-sC6sFMxqFd7nxJPvd5515kL6iRvCffJkIdf90DJC3O3eKMk00d6v7w5vTjInGHZq0UBIr7jQz5VgJk4FOlT0xfD_yU3-YPxQpUbLDYsx2S5n5mloGIg/s1600/Stash+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeKTxBrE-tcMbdVO5YMZgHo0q-sC6sFMxqFd7nxJPvd5515kL6iRvCffJkIdf90DJC3O3eKMk00d6v7w5vTjInGHZq0UBIr7jQz5VgJk4FOlT0xfD_yU3-YPxQpUbLDYsx2S5n5mloGIg/s640/Stash+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">An entire drawer of linings, mainly silk charmeuse, silk habotai, and 4-way jersey lining.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDTxTgmQfY6VzzWDI49fGR4k0D7xbf961zoTig28myTuSZO92vM6NgBtIsneHuFuzIHxkHF1cUc7iheTKjcZSfqj39BAg0RLh-hAsd2bxG2DfZfMXTV_b704UGs1FRQ2zmGasRgzcYiOw/s1600/Stash+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDTxTgmQfY6VzzWDI49fGR4k0D7xbf961zoTig28myTuSZO92vM6NgBtIsneHuFuzIHxkHF1cUc7iheTKjcZSfqj39BAg0RLh-hAsd2bxG2DfZfMXTV_b704UGs1FRQ2zmGasRgzcYiOw/s640/Stash+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Finally, a drawer of evening fabrics from lace to silk crepe.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrrt-jPas0WdLhaOUWjX3rDBc8k4yQQIwXD74xvF84ooEETwfEuJX23Qvsk0QxTyB3phJyqQPBHSVfbgc7hXbq5v7q-TiJApXSX_oC7uhZ1rfAa79_vW5txJdHPdowSvtjCsRElAXwyFk/s1600/Stash+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrrt-jPas0WdLhaOUWjX3rDBc8k4yQQIwXD74xvF84ooEETwfEuJX23Qvsk0QxTyB3phJyqQPBHSVfbgc7hXbq5v7q-TiJApXSX_oC7uhZ1rfAa79_vW5txJdHPdowSvtjCsRElAXwyFk/s640/Stash+4.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">After years of a multi-room stash I feel free to explore any sewing direction I wish without guilt. It took a few years to get the stash "lean and mean" but now the job is done and I am so happy with the result. I am busy sewing a few of the woven fabrics into trousers and blouses to wear while working as a special education teacher. Then I am looking forward to a couture project!</span>Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-35066732717227684212016-08-14T21:23:00.000-05:002016-08-15T14:13:47.273-05:00Plastron Blouse<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Style 114 from the July 2016 issue of Burda Style Magazine features a wonderful blouse with an embellishment technique commonly referred to as the weaving of fabric strips. Burda Magazine refers to the front inset as a "plastron" which is a trimming, like a bib, for a woman's dress. In the late 18th century, a plastron typically featured lace or embroidery.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8PB9kljQzt3Y1DcFUsvs1l7VCD4WWuTiEOQspSlmMJ3d3cjMBZBJW0D-j3ttxJgaxyI1B_x6APipy3VNM_Fu5FerB6ifVm7MGKo_Z8HY8Tuc1NvaDXwoZf9UF47eckcuLKsjBdbaoa-c/s1600/Red+12.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8PB9kljQzt3Y1DcFUsvs1l7VCD4WWuTiEOQspSlmMJ3d3cjMBZBJW0D-j3ttxJgaxyI1B_x6APipy3VNM_Fu5FerB6ifVm7MGKo_Z8HY8Tuc1NvaDXwoZf9UF47eckcuLKsjBdbaoa-c/s640/Red+12.jpe" width="478" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">My version is made from red cotton oxford purchased at Vogue Fabrics in Evanston, Illinois. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguIkryKswin8GiMWDWuR3Zx5VrsIOz6ISRB-wsi9q3G-aWHsn38w49eRHyjcEAu7Rs3-cxzzyRBpfTtj_Dqn4j-ZjtNVR0NRqCd_VnIv7XOLsxf3FFQbseYZa0MrK5t2TxyxsBq7-6mqo/s1600/Red+9.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguIkryKswin8GiMWDWuR3Zx5VrsIOz6ISRB-wsi9q3G-aWHsn38w49eRHyjcEAu7Rs3-cxzzyRBpfTtj_Dqn4j-ZjtNVR0NRqCd_VnIv7XOLsxf3FFQbseYZa0MrK5t2TxyxsBq7-6mqo/s640/Red+9.jpe" width="478" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">The buttonholes are hidden to not detract from the plastron. The fabric strip weaving is not difficult to do but requires accuracy in sewing. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVbu28moJbscsV5abMTaS4wcU4wQa5XfeRn794y1-W5dov8mDuqzEnwVuhsU38Ku8T47_HC_ZKDA1zXbpPIU7qjY3wDWE9ZLZZq1ojo_VAA1eojMxWXw8xjP2JPCrxXK8RIIKo16KfuqA/s1600/Red+10.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVbu28moJbscsV5abMTaS4wcU4wQa5XfeRn794y1-W5dov8mDuqzEnwVuhsU38Ku8T47_HC_ZKDA1zXbpPIU7qjY3wDWE9ZLZZq1ojo_VAA1eojMxWXw8xjP2JPCrxXK8RIIKo16KfuqA/s640/Red+10.jpe" width="476" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">I added an elastic thread loop and button at the top of the buttonhole band to keep the top edge flat against the garment front neckline. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf_vQLs5WEqnC6TldbDOeM7Ghs7tCRKSQ2O4cgrx_atixgPEAnXxa_DmEDz9OhJbvBCV-z11CqGGvtRKQd1BT5hFsGaVIolpsyPkUsITQAb4WrRdRhJTms_pS0H0mTUwfFTE9XZlOdvpI/s1600/Red+11.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf_vQLs5WEqnC6TldbDOeM7Ghs7tCRKSQ2O4cgrx_atixgPEAnXxa_DmEDz9OhJbvBCV-z11CqGGvtRKQd1BT5hFsGaVIolpsyPkUsITQAb4WrRdRhJTms_pS0H0mTUwfFTE9XZlOdvpI/s640/Red+11.jpe" width="478" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">The blouse back is simple with a standard tailoring pleat at center back. Fit is loose and comfortable. Since the fit was loose, I made just one sleeve for the muslin. On a fitted garment, I would add both sleeves to check fit across the shoulders, chest, and back. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIHl8AQxWvkP1znbtlpVC88sqFnXP8flIijJkZCe5GtZgohO9P1DUj0Kf0yWKe_jS94Hu0KYZRLbPO-owQu9vx-FozFNCjRO8tFoS0sgMDnWqRAI8xiPbHNIp7I07ETLX8oyzLIok4jH4/s1600/Crop+plastron.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIHl8AQxWvkP1znbtlpVC88sqFnXP8flIijJkZCe5GtZgohO9P1DUj0Kf0yWKe_jS94Hu0KYZRLbPO-owQu9vx-FozFNCjRO8tFoS0sgMDnWqRAI8xiPbHNIp7I07ETLX8oyzLIok4jH4/s640/Crop+plastron.jpe" width="480" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">No pattern changes, not even the addition of a bust dart!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">To improve the construction quality of the plastron, I have written a few comments. It would be fun to try the weaving technique on other garments in different ways. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Construction Notes:</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWc0iYASDCj5nRPIWTBf8uzTIzW7JYnI5a20LYn9ROI1V3pGWx8myyVDu84ZK__GSztK2Gis8261sm9YR3S6SpZYZMYRSDoDLqNkMiTcAaqmJbGxdmT3rgZY4iKLTyY_x70JB-R28xcds/s1600/Red+1.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWc0iYASDCj5nRPIWTBf8uzTIzW7JYnI5a20LYn9ROI1V3pGWx8myyVDu84ZK__GSztK2Gis8261sm9YR3S6SpZYZMYRSDoDLqNkMiTcAaqmJbGxdmT3rgZY4iKLTyY_x70JB-R28xcds/s400/Red+1.jpe" width="297" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr align="left"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">Mark stitching lines so that decorative strips are uniform width. I mark the width of the finished fabric strip rather than the seam allowance. That way if the seam allowance is cut unevenly, the finished fabric strip will be accurate.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje85yWka_Oxp0LVg_edljQ73JLBr-2z7SNHUXVT6rnaIBhpmhYAPF9C7KO0m2obt_tJjqphDsDXV9r2lfxaPwNDMnDZ01_heRNj_FBVpXTiS5A916HcoAxi7biRxVsI4J8pTJkyiQlJZ4/s1600/Red+2.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje85yWka_Oxp0LVg_edljQ73JLBr-2z7SNHUXVT6rnaIBhpmhYAPF9C7KO0m2obt_tJjqphDsDXV9r2lfxaPwNDMnDZ01_heRNj_FBVpXTiS5A916HcoAxi7biRxVsI4J8pTJkyiQlJZ4/s400/Red+2.jpe" width="298" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">Stitching line are marked in blue. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKJfZ6YW6U1YM-pq1AjmYueOktVT9OHhr4SECFjq9bCEBVTy4BKxzrWB9HEqPVjwV8WlQvR7T_ReCEW1QGKcHy-IJb30Q5ovXda-uxmV3Eelthub6qGXciDus0Fr8Cs5cF1wq_0zBS6Ws/s1600/Red+3.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKJfZ6YW6U1YM-pq1AjmYueOktVT9OHhr4SECFjq9bCEBVTy4BKxzrWB9HEqPVjwV8WlQvR7T_ReCEW1QGKcHy-IJb30Q5ovXda-uxmV3Eelthub6qGXciDus0Fr8Cs5cF1wq_0zBS6Ws/s400/Red+3.jpe" width="298" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr align="left"><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: large;">Strip has been stitched and seam allowance pressed open. One seam allowance is ungraded (1/2" wide) while the other seam allowance is trimmed to 1/4". This makes the seam allowances less noticeable from the right side.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2azDHCgd2FAE_YWiMNLMMw2E7MwYQ6HxDdrBAPceUX9wXUfb6YfewDn3jQYxHHrgChr1uE3pBeuSsQ8D5HIbDf0HJ5sYGkLHb1h7PrkmrDGVMYoQT0u6GJlCa-VMiiy_-DVG8gjIFke0/s1600/Red+4.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2azDHCgd2FAE_YWiMNLMMw2E7MwYQ6HxDdrBAPceUX9wXUfb6YfewDn3jQYxHHrgChr1uE3pBeuSsQ8D5HIbDf0HJ5sYGkLHb1h7PrkmrDGVMYoQT0u6GJlCa-VMiiy_-DVG8gjIFke0/s400/Red+4.jpe" width="298" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr align="left"><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: large;">I prefer the look of the fabric strip on the left. It has no top-stitching. I decided to top-stitch the strips because I wanted the blouse to launder well and not require complicated pressing.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkjusq3pkfjUHNHx9E_YB5LK57wezES-WYiHA72Y9fDqbgL1tGw3DFiURlYy_8AtygOAyVp4Y7gmopy9F4x4dr9t_dlw_JB_5zqJZrPrFeM0noef8EO4CG7yfbpZAp0B2h3SV1mQJtE6Q/s1600/Red+5.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkjusq3pkfjUHNHx9E_YB5LK57wezES-WYiHA72Y9fDqbgL1tGw3DFiURlYy_8AtygOAyVp4Y7gmopy9F4x4dr9t_dlw_JB_5zqJZrPrFeM0noef8EO4CG7yfbpZAp0B2h3SV1mQJtE6Q/s400/Red+5.jpe" width="298" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr align="left"><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: large;">At left is the plastron with the placement of the fabric strips marked in chalk. The strips must fill the spaces exactly without being too wide nor too slim. If you mark the stitching lines as discussed above, this will not be difficult to achieve. At right the strips are pinned in place alone the marked lines. The strips will be trimmed to the proper shape later.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt5ee_-AZ1PWDyzS9st5R8wT7DUyxSRLTBgQWsIMzp1x0IZHkl5hPn5Bex3gK0dpmQ-X6vj9M9Op3NqEP2zjMcWrRquA2x_fjSqV9HlJofynf6O4hZXTDlXNqNGTuJO42iBTIopBA0ymI/s1600/Red+6.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt5ee_-AZ1PWDyzS9st5R8wT7DUyxSRLTBgQWsIMzp1x0IZHkl5hPn5Bex3gK0dpmQ-X6vj9M9Op3NqEP2zjMcWrRquA2x_fjSqV9HlJofynf6O4hZXTDlXNqNGTuJO42iBTIopBA0ymI/s400/Red+6.jpe" width="298" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">View of inside of the plastron</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-IdGjj-rHLP1ZX72oMY4lc95iprhTl6Po4VCSqzo6WgOHMAndyCjdKTERYeYxoYCIaGl3spgj1CeUnmdeN7wlx2QBfMtzZx3tL6eo39e7wYXSz0HneFiMIGw_aR2uLmYVFqQRCLffhu8/s1600/Red+7.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-IdGjj-rHLP1ZX72oMY4lc95iprhTl6Po4VCSqzo6WgOHMAndyCjdKTERYeYxoYCIaGl3spgj1CeUnmdeN7wlx2QBfMtzZx3tL6eo39e7wYXSz0HneFiMIGw_aR2uLmYVFqQRCLffhu8/s400/Red+7.jpe" width="298" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">If you mark and stitch accurately, the right and left sides of the plastron will match nicely.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdJY-SGrH1LXJkgqIWzxSy719KP-Kv8OFCM8pXPlREPjNO5EVdRapKQ4PShI0BVmf6cUICgSkZgXOkoI7fIMkWP5lzj0bptuoeR98k1FcYZUg_ZAAyMlZR7DT_zW8YBlV458FNEM4epc0/s1600/Red+8.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdJY-SGrH1LXJkgqIWzxSy719KP-Kv8OFCM8pXPlREPjNO5EVdRapKQ4PShI0BVmf6cUICgSkZgXOkoI7fIMkWP5lzj0bptuoeR98k1FcYZUg_ZAAyMlZR7DT_zW8YBlV458FNEM4epc0/s400/Red+8.jpe" width="298" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr align="left"><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: large;">The center front seam allowance is 5/8" in the above photo. My pattern has 1/2" seam allowances so despite my careful sewing, I am off 1/8" on each side of the blouse front. Therefore the total error is 1/4". I will widen the buttonhole band 1/4" to make up for the error. If chasing a 1/8" error is not your idea of fun, then let it go! The blouse fit is loose and it will be just fine whether you correct the error or not. This technique should be fun!</span></td></tr>
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Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-62902197158949823002016-08-09T17:53:00.002-05:002016-08-09T17:54:32.351-05:00Jacket Vogue 9096<span style="font-size: large;">My "simple summer jacket" sewing theme is coming to an end with this jacket as a successful conclusion. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje_T5kBC3AHDyw2_IY6dXwC33vJVoqDjJduASTHn2o75i9e6eNR5V0ptezHRuJF0a6_KsAcWSyigqiF7s5BuNgTat5kAMGxvwnbhtZg7fYc1-uzXL1z3glLLMTGSRltFTRrGyPcEsKZTY/s1600/Light+Blue+1.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje_T5kBC3AHDyw2_IY6dXwC33vJVoqDjJduASTHn2o75i9e6eNR5V0ptezHRuJF0a6_KsAcWSyigqiF7s5BuNgTat5kAMGxvwnbhtZg7fYc1-uzXL1z3glLLMTGSRltFTRrGyPcEsKZTY/s640/Light+Blue+1.jpe" width="482" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">Vogue 9096</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj2WHv1wQRztzpxOV99WZKANRnlc-IT6AiRSXs36V8V5s6rI2gEb9gAq8_C8DOBtC63BqLQUW1ACC5kp_b4-mJjK1qUhV6vPE58l-8CWwEt-kR97RrtPJMLxpcIbmxTrjR0VPWSKBYyz4/s1600/Light+Blue+2.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj2WHv1wQRztzpxOV99WZKANRnlc-IT6AiRSXs36V8V5s6rI2gEb9gAq8_C8DOBtC63BqLQUW1ACC5kp_b4-mJjK1qUhV6vPE58l-8CWwEt-kR97RrtPJMLxpcIbmxTrjR0VPWSKBYyz4/s640/Light+Blue+2.jpe" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">Asymmetrical overlay and shawl collar add nice visual interest</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I had good luck sewing Vogue 9096 up in a medium blue/beige herringbone suiting from Vogue Fabrics in Evanston. The bolt said "various fibers" but the fabric machine laundered beautifully, is 60 inches wide, and is very reasonably priced. The jacket and overlay are lined edge-to-edge and the sewing is quite simple.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The jacket has one overlay on the right front. Another pattern view has five overlays on a longer jacket which I would like to try also. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1IZ7PrWOh9JXjZvtArtPVhM6iYClhajW1T51eV3hCBsKT1CDM0H8lpNeV156WfYHirpl2CCtrFx_RLj9CaLb0uWv26TwlEYUnyj_shdZDagroyZVwQNDe2KZw7rX1K8WdUEPog8HH2eU/s1600/Light+Blue+4.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1IZ7PrWOh9JXjZvtArtPVhM6iYClhajW1T51eV3hCBsKT1CDM0H8lpNeV156WfYHirpl2CCtrFx_RLj9CaLb0uWv26TwlEYUnyj_shdZDagroyZVwQNDe2KZw7rX1K8WdUEPog8HH2eU/s640/Light+Blue+4.jpe" width="480" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">The back is simple and the length is 3-4 inches below the waist. While the pattern does not show a shawl collar, my fabric draped softly and wanted to roll at the neckline so I let it. The jacket has no interfacing which is fine for summer.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizrwFRWKn_BlPkitUDIiUkD08WZZIVT5aN4TQAq_tiPcMvTEuMkCK_FxT4o81WO8Cn2N2TnArXf5mQLuzF0VJ72Gnrn8CZdSRyj4Bl4ur84OXTNmWnVdwkBCUCTWprR1ILcTjhK3-jmCs/s1600/Light+Blue+3.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizrwFRWKn_BlPkitUDIiUkD08WZZIVT5aN4TQAq_tiPcMvTEuMkCK_FxT4o81WO8Cn2N2TnArXf5mQLuzF0VJ72Gnrn8CZdSRyj4Bl4ur84OXTNmWnVdwkBCUCTWprR1ILcTjhK3-jmCs/s640/Light+Blue+3.jpe" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">fabric detail</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">There are few day outfits that this jacket doesn't work with. I envision wearing the jacket through October with pants, shorts, and a navy knit maxi dress. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">This week I am sewing simple blouses that transition from summer to fall. One has fabric strips woven across the front insets and is a nice balance between wear ability and fine sewing details. This is the muslin:</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6dqOP9bOjSF_5OG6fGVRF1ytrKEePnGpvwDfcCKaB43-QNcB7Odxhn9OUH_4Tw6FDj3MOu0HbppFp8e2XcT5q0mhwwlK8Wg5TaXRZJwo4LoAkMTEzMGNUXKOuGDxT37jaMXOZbt7jYNw/s1600/Crop+plastron.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6dqOP9bOjSF_5OG6fGVRF1ytrKEePnGpvwDfcCKaB43-QNcB7Odxhn9OUH_4Tw6FDj3MOu0HbppFp8e2XcT5q0mhwwlK8Wg5TaXRZJwo4LoAkMTEzMGNUXKOuGDxT37jaMXOZbt7jYNw/s400/Crop+plastron.jpe" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">Garment is being sewn in red cotton oxford shirting</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Thanks for reading my blog!</span>Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-70729097465815658222016-08-04T11:18:00.003-05:002016-08-04T11:18:37.819-05:00Panel Prints for End of Summer Sewing<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeQjNmtLk4_6E6Ja7nuhV2UK9VnAHfl_vnqPHwWm5vTB_L7EAkyQ4RM-kip7byUldhXC-Z3Bifff2KtcAIhXPsIBNG19uad60AX37V3tEfRi-GXpMwA84afpr-K3DArmG-UFi4Om-ju5g/s1600/Crochet+1.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeQjNmtLk4_6E6Ja7nuhV2UK9VnAHfl_vnqPHwWm5vTB_L7EAkyQ4RM-kip7byUldhXC-Z3Bifff2KtcAIhXPsIBNG19uad60AX37V3tEfRi-GXpMwA84afpr-K3DArmG-UFi4Om-ju5g/s640/Crochet+1.jpe" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">Burda Style #115, May 2016</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">With one more month of summer fashion, I decided to sew a gorgeous panel print rayon/lycra fabric from Mood. I purchased two panels which is approximately two yards of 60" fabric. Key to successful pattern placement is the fact that the fabric is 4-way stretch.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKXkpE7qL8RB4AlK-6fmbh8wTsCF4ClcAmy3JCWU1_HlpN5IaRk3Qt8w3-vDJ8PQLSaESeRpyZ2O1-zzSxZleKHRgx18ejI02rwjmZsLjQuzLGsUFrFvIHv6TvO_SFTqqlMClQWPhJXaE/s1600/Crochet+2.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKXkpE7qL8RB4AlK-6fmbh8wTsCF4ClcAmy3JCWU1_HlpN5IaRk3Qt8w3-vDJ8PQLSaESeRpyZ2O1-zzSxZleKHRgx18ejI02rwjmZsLjQuzLGsUFrFvIHv6TvO_SFTqqlMClQWPhJXaE/s640/Crochet+2.jpe" width="478" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">The garment style is loose and unfitted, not at all my usual choice. The fabric print dictated a style with few seams to break up the interesting, colorful print. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJhTo-z2Y5gS6YtR1_ZWNI6iQT2Y8RF4M-aE-U_Cl5EEnCo3E4GJV4ynx6-iLFL4nkSZMgOrmv8RPhVY3rZnV2TNMe2qk6hkH8ev0h1rsXNf_mgcR6K5oDCTX6LKdaplbLDPG6onsopfA/s1600/Crochet+3.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJhTo-z2Y5gS6YtR1_ZWNI6iQT2Y8RF4M-aE-U_Cl5EEnCo3E4GJV4ynx6-iLFL4nkSZMgOrmv8RPhVY3rZnV2TNMe2qk6hkH8ev0h1rsXNf_mgcR6K5oDCTX6LKdaplbLDPG6onsopfA/s640/Crochet+3.jpe" width="478" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">Dress Back has less of the print</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The 2016-17 Marfy pattern collection shows many dresses and tops with this sleeve style (referred to as butterfly, bat-wing, dolman, large armhole etc.). The lower armhole is almost at the waist. The garment back overlaps the garment front at the shoulder/neckline seam.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQkFoSal3IUZCoYNCzSb7G5veFsEwob2qwTHkdW00WmOdGxEqLN-nPogy4PRR-Pem4vJdIjP1VceG6Wq-3YlcYojrryQ5OIe59eiWOK7QpJb2DJneyHs-FECDFiF-eCWQo9OZ3qTLaptM/s1600/Crochet+4.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQkFoSal3IUZCoYNCzSb7G5veFsEwob2qwTHkdW00WmOdGxEqLN-nPogy4PRR-Pem4vJdIjP1VceG6Wq-3YlcYojrryQ5OIe59eiWOK7QpJb2DJneyHs-FECDFiF-eCWQo9OZ3qTLaptM/s640/Crochet+4.jpe" width="478" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Here is an image of the uncut 2-panel fabric yardage:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfQRQUrn34lTRh54CAW-oZmNPZolQQKoYsP0BRzVb1z0pGGi3KXXTzsho5zVP-dr68Y_o9ggWtCkTCbuYv8FIHmSVg9BvVeBiLZUk3SE5YF8LDd-n7zhwFhHHbTJ6a5i6iUOQbndyyG7I/s1600/Crochet+6.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfQRQUrn34lTRh54CAW-oZmNPZolQQKoYsP0BRzVb1z0pGGi3KXXTzsho5zVP-dr68Y_o9ggWtCkTCbuYv8FIHmSVg9BvVeBiLZUk3SE5YF8LDd-n7zhwFhHHbTJ6a5i6iUOQbndyyG7I/s640/Crochet+6.jpe" width="478" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">The 4-way stretch enabled me to lay the pattern pieces perpendicular to the selvage which I wouldn't normally do. Stretch was almost equal in both directions. In the photo below, the Dress Back is to the left, the Dress Front is to the right. I added seams at Center Back and Center Front to facilitate pattern placement.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilBmkbbKV3Zoh6wzVT1AfXVJr1mwRT3UIFLwbprGtjsTygQykL0ZgfeUTPkJjGmr9kTnxnzor4gdFNXf7L85hLkT6tbdm9nn69UWPA2VlHCYnK0QB1LKfIxm-jW7SLYEUPF7F3WX3fkMs/s1600/Crochet+5.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilBmkbbKV3Zoh6wzVT1AfXVJr1mwRT3UIFLwbprGtjsTygQykL0ZgfeUTPkJjGmr9kTnxnzor4gdFNXf7L85hLkT6tbdm9nn69UWPA2VlHCYnK0QB1LKfIxm-jW7SLYEUPF7F3WX3fkMs/s640/Crochet+5.jpe" width="478" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Do I love the dress? Not really, to tell you the truth. I absolutely love the fabric, the garment is highly wearable, and the fit is flattering. I prefer more tailored garments and I can't get used to the sleeve style. I thought the print panel was so interesting that I made it the focus of the garment. From this experience, I learned to maintain a more tailored silhouette, even with a knit, and to use less of a print no matter how pretty. The outfit below is much more to my liking:</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7y8iIOxzG-KZedEqooj8CIBbKJzPapddSAP_p0OqWk7Er1DY-Ry1P0WQK-9nSeM_R_9U-W1_NR8PrtbYljr6HResmhvhcUw7mJSfzCjW4_x0EmeWJFwtWZUySFgY0mAmvrehmupqVBXI/s1600/LV+top+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7y8iIOxzG-KZedEqooj8CIBbKJzPapddSAP_p0OqWk7Er1DY-Ry1P0WQK-9nSeM_R_9U-W1_NR8PrtbYljr6HResmhvhcUw7mJSfzCjW4_x0EmeWJFwtWZUySFgY0mAmvrehmupqVBXI/s640/LV+top+1.jpg" width="426" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">Louis Vuitton Fall 2016, Look 43</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The top features a lovely print but in a scale that I am more comfortable with, and the sleeves are a proportion I like. You can view the collection at: <a href="http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/louis-vuitton/slideshow/collection#43">Look #43</a>. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">A fellow blogger made very fun harem pants from the same panel print and I think she looks beautiful in them even though she too is unhappy with the project results (<a href="http://www.oonaballoona.com/2016/07/life-is-what-happens-to-you-while-youre.html">http://www.oonaballoona.com/2016/07/life-is-what-happens-to-you-while-youre.html).</a></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>
<span style="font-size: large;">I viewed the Top 10 Designer Shows this morning at <a href="http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear">http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear</a>. While I did not fall in love with many outfits, I saw ways to update my use of color and pattern. I will check out the couture collections over the weekend and hopefully come up with an exciting project to sew.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"></span>Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-24082649318676042462016-07-25T08:25:00.001-05:002016-07-25T08:25:30.153-05:00Linton Tweed for a Drawstring Shrug<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWPreBNVyy5BduBWLdekUjxVh951NGOwWZyBrif9J1_-EjH2rJXmAD1Xv3FLAyinBtbfYT2GRlYeCx_CK8pDXDFw67PFJlcqS_4TQ383L2bZJ2BgHLcDsBX8_JT8qSgLdGnyWtJpmNMIw/s1600/Tweed+Jkt+One.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWPreBNVyy5BduBWLdekUjxVh951NGOwWZyBrif9J1_-EjH2rJXmAD1Xv3FLAyinBtbfYT2GRlYeCx_CK8pDXDFw67PFJlcqS_4TQ383L2bZJ2BgHLcDsBX8_JT8qSgLdGnyWtJpmNMIw/s640/Tweed+Jkt+One.jpe" width="396" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> A few new summer jackets!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYKhlsh0ej94OVbga5BYcAZ5v3Xa1sPd-RtIcgqrxB7eYTJC3TGwumnMgKFtLzDtcY9II4khJo50f3scT1xYfvqvYgwQ0a747bntK6s7UzvNkRggpAVBmB3UmeF0OwLB9Ow554qqvrwsM/s1600/Tweed+1.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYKhlsh0ej94OVbga5BYcAZ5v3Xa1sPd-RtIcgqrxB7eYTJC3TGwumnMgKFtLzDtcY9II4khJo50f3scT1xYfvqvYgwQ0a747bntK6s7UzvNkRggpAVBmB3UmeF0OwLB9Ow554qqvrwsM/s640/Tweed+1.jpe" width="480" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Marcy Tilton refers to her current Vogue 9190 designs as drawstring shrugs but I think they are great, easy summer jackets rather than simple shrugs. I have been wearing them far more than I initially expected and that is a great feeling. In all my adult years of sewing, I cannot recall sewing a jacket without padding, interfacing, and lining. The jackets in this post are completely unstructured though drawstring buttonhole openings have a 1" square of interfacing to be accurate. While I will return to sewing more tailored styles in the fall, it was a refreshing change to temporarily relax my sewing.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMGDSGn0hnjkXgHG-Sld7Ay3lXL6wVBW0OY8HI1qu0WtAxqg6RMrHELxv90XWUanEJY2EXO2qDrzszEs_JBMftcbEjkXD21H6PvjpTyt7CdE5sRUOBY67H-vP2hslE42oMm16a1wLkz5o/s1600/Tweed+3.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMGDSGn0hnjkXgHG-Sld7Ay3lXL6wVBW0OY8HI1qu0WtAxqg6RMrHELxv90XWUanEJY2EXO2qDrzszEs_JBMftcbEjkXD21H6PvjpTyt7CdE5sRUOBY67H-vP2hslE42oMm16a1wLkz5o/s640/Tweed+3.jpe" width="478" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"> With a closet full of couture fabrics made into formal garments, I am looking for ways to enjoy nice fabrics in my casual wear. I purchased a lovely Linton tweed last summer at <a href="http://www.lintondirect.co.uk/shop/online-store.html">http://www.lintondirect.co.uk/shop/online-store.html</a>. The cotton blend fabric is black and soft white with yarn slubs in pastel shades of blue, yellow, orange, and pink. The fabric has wonderful texture and is quite heavy for cotton suiting. I boldly threw the fabric in the wash machine and dryer, and it came out sans wrinkles or shrinkage. Not only is the jacket highly wearable, I don't need to fear accidental spills and stains. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsqxhdM55Ax4jfiaMmvAlCnBJuC7hjwAYrZ6D57zhqyVhli13pjZ4TpUZVOq1bxofZpfc6IWQQKrWTu-vdk9lDaq1zs0w97DVx5IJljbHBuuj2CHLnwkFGqQCblhjp2ZcXfFkIRypFjfg/s1600/Tweed+2.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsqxhdM55Ax4jfiaMmvAlCnBJuC7hjwAYrZ6D57zhqyVhli13pjZ4TpUZVOq1bxofZpfc6IWQQKrWTu-vdk9lDaq1zs0w97DVx5IJljbHBuuj2CHLnwkFGqQCblhjp2ZcXfFkIRypFjfg/s640/Tweed+2.jpe" width="478" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Fringe is one inch wide and shows the "wrong" side of the fabric with thick white yarns. I hand tacked the fringe to the finished jacket. This jacket is View C.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfsICfZKezetjxOfJdSIa57-6xmpX_f3iL2jgWDSAaapnNWBUt6HrSoE8NpLNjRQnTmtiUmGaOtNYhurgXSCydTNc_UiV5IKfMbQvHXrCdjVHLBXzdZwRw1K6NmqVuqpCHCm3zWi8jwDY/s1600/Tweed+4.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfsICfZKezetjxOfJdSIa57-6xmpX_f3iL2jgWDSAaapnNWBUt6HrSoE8NpLNjRQnTmtiUmGaOtNYhurgXSCydTNc_UiV5IKfMbQvHXrCdjVHLBXzdZwRw1K6NmqVuqpCHCm3zWi8jwDY/s640/Tweed+4.jpe" width="478" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">I used a cotton/lycra houndstooth knit scrap for the drawstrings which adds to the casual feel. The three pattern changes I made were (1) lengthen the jacket three inches in the back only, (2) cut sleeves on bias, and (3) add a horizontal bust dart to clean the upper chest area. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAVpDG66rS8Xd7eekEPnMB-8ub6PUiblDul_UtoaqR-fTpfiXobTHsUAAUtVeXZErPBD7M3tXyylrom6XXsCjBGgvx8Upwr7YET04C8XZ4p6-TM3yNnSqApw7Rn_dGI416ZfVnitj3Qs4/s1600/White+1.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAVpDG66rS8Xd7eekEPnMB-8ub6PUiblDul_UtoaqR-fTpfiXobTHsUAAUtVeXZErPBD7M3tXyylrom6XXsCjBGgvx8Upwr7YET04C8XZ4p6-TM3yNnSqApw7Rn_dGI416ZfVnitj3Qs4/s640/White+1.jpe" width="480" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO1n38mLjIX6Qy4pFxTVv73hJwgv2aaK5vAEMQTWgVpSoIv_OfiEUFjeF5FzA4lCMSGxBm8zneIrU19DHK6B9Ry8fnSWezLVIfcrREhlaIpVfyuLmNy2zN32sn6DhSP6zXwW8lV6zFPgY/s1600/White+3.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO1n38mLjIX6Qy4pFxTVv73hJwgv2aaK5vAEMQTWgVpSoIv_OfiEUFjeF5FzA4lCMSGxBm8zneIrU19DHK6B9Ry8fnSWezLVIfcrREhlaIpVfyuLmNy2zN32sn6DhSP6zXwW8lV6zFPgY/s640/White+3.jpe" width="478" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">The same jacket in white. This white cotton stretch woven jacket was not lengthened but you can see the side bust dart I added. It's extremely rare for me to not add a bust dart to a garment. I am a B/C cup and I find that most garments lay nicer with dart shaping.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDSLIHOTpvWEsxZBXlYNGQX4s9mGlIzVF0IuuXCNFKe1EI8LwHvArVncUGk-O5-B5_YBz9WJ09I7bMAPAfO-rZ_U8k306sxHkb5OHQvNsiER6hwNkNECZuI8UnGuf_S40E8CSfiBfcvrE/s1600/White+2.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDSLIHOTpvWEsxZBXlYNGQX4s9mGlIzVF0IuuXCNFKe1EI8LwHvArVncUGk-O5-B5_YBz9WJ09I7bMAPAfO-rZ_U8k306sxHkb5OHQvNsiER6hwNkNECZuI8UnGuf_S40E8CSfiBfcvrE/s640/White+2.jpe" width="480" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Mood Fabrics sells this lovely lightweight animal-print knit at <a href="http://www.moodfabrics.com/phillip-lim-striated-cheetah-printed-cotton-jersey-309855.html">http://www.moodfabrics.com/phillip-lim-striated-cheetah-printed-cotton-jersey-309855.html</a>. I made View A with the horizontal bust dart but no other changes. The pattern includes the contrast sleeve cuffs which improve the hang of the sleeve nicely. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9W08JOryd0KRqT1pYXuuyKEmXrB9OsUyt8P_emtN5FEPhqXlEDpMAoZLfdg7XF3QYV5HvRe1WTMP9OZqfSkJZWJqPc5zDmErPoiK05yqMzDGHdgbLXF91fpZhhD02Pa8wanyqL236WMM/s1600/Animal+3.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9W08JOryd0KRqT1pYXuuyKEmXrB9OsUyt8P_emtN5FEPhqXlEDpMAoZLfdg7XF3QYV5HvRe1WTMP9OZqfSkJZWJqPc5zDmErPoiK05yqMzDGHdgbLXF91fpZhhD02Pa8wanyqL236WMM/s640/Animal+3.jpe" width="478" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZEZ6g9GW3USrSbHTPRk2WeqxvLEr5IMe1a49U13QNqTE7aC66-QrsALc2FyLmRMNs6-Y_ro1a6PZNIBej3JEHchyphenhyphenGlV-QmmMHePB7FIQYrE1N4NQJqRD-06twQW17XhL1O-8D_wdWZ5Y/s1600/Animal+1.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZEZ6g9GW3USrSbHTPRk2WeqxvLEr5IMe1a49U13QNqTE7aC66-QrsALc2FyLmRMNs6-Y_ro1a6PZNIBej3JEHchyphenhyphenGlV-QmmMHePB7FIQYrE1N4NQJqRD-06twQW17XhL1O-8D_wdWZ5Y/s640/Animal+1.jpe" width="480" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzcwCDjHLXHXnhnSLiAw1bfVHkNgJE8e9TdTT8DnHONEL-YfTdl8qmja68A9hUQZf3cqUJMCuctKrQZq1zCJef7pWAMVuWp5lymDDEJuYXaXfmTSuvfGJF8LjrNHom5qVwzH0gql26IDU/s1600/Animal+2.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzcwCDjHLXHXnhnSLiAw1bfVHkNgJE8e9TdTT8DnHONEL-YfTdl8qmja68A9hUQZf3cqUJMCuctKrQZq1zCJef7pWAMVuWp5lymDDEJuYXaXfmTSuvfGJF8LjrNHom5qVwzH0gql26IDU/s640/Animal+2.jpe" width="480" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Thanks for reading my blog. It is fun to be blogging again and I am thoroughly enjoying chatting with many of you. Please write when you get a chance! My son is helping me update the blog layout so there may be a few changes in August which will improve readability. </span>Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-56127228145072369382016-07-19T10:28:00.000-05:002016-07-20T12:11:31.518-05:00Summer 2016It has been a wonderful summer with trips to Venice, Florence, Rome, and Minnesota. Florence may have <i>David by Michaelangelo </i>but Minneapolis has Mall of America! All wonderful places I wanted to visit for many years and finally did visit this summer. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Venice, Italy</span></td></tr>
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While I am on summer vacation from my special education teaching
position, I am excited to resume blogging, a pleasant activity I have
sorely missed due to the busyness of the past year. The red travel dress I am wearing is made from a great fabric available at Emmaonesock.com: <a href="http://emmaonesock.com/fabrics/hitechmattehybrid.asp?c=214">hi tech matte hybrid</a>. The fabric hand washes and drips dry quickly with absolutely no wrinkles. I made three dresses out of the fabric for the trip to Italy. While the dresses may be conservative to many sewers, including me, the style choice was necessary because so many churches and museums in Italy have strict dress codes with regard to covering shoulders and knees. I can shorten the dresses for future use if I wish.<br />
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The red and royal blue dresses are sewn from pattern McCalls 6074 and the pink dress is Butterick 6051. I also made the patterns up in cotton/lycra knits but I did not take those garments to Italy because the dresses would take too long to air-dry.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_cxBQCCg-CLZvRe5lFS7hAlBJW7qTcDXZKhyLPvdwgf0Cv00lvI9DDJeVBWBm4OGzFAyREETuPPuY3JK-wus4TaNjZFveUwi5NhZkKV5LARU1u6admo5Ke7jCWN6MlmPZ4JzqPc2aO7E/s1600/Navy+travel+dress.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_cxBQCCg-CLZvRe5lFS7hAlBJW7qTcDXZKhyLPvdwgf0Cv00lvI9DDJeVBWBm4OGzFAyREETuPPuY3JK-wus4TaNjZFveUwi5NhZkKV5LARU1u6admo5Ke7jCWN6MlmPZ4JzqPc2aO7E/s640/Navy+travel+dress.jpe" width="478" /></a></div>
I wear this navy cotton/lycra maxi dress all the time and I like the short sleeve and lower neckline. The length is at the ankle so it is easy to walk in and is casual.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjwhxUcZiZ6SB08zMghshJ-1valWVtFVv4wKmthwI9ywLid4gC01BCm2XDuIWUaFm8GNPTKsDeoHhbHYAMCiuQUEIo-SqZaYPB3zN2z8Tqe66UIUBErpXyawZDzCz2yjCWuWYytiCKTfc/s1600/White+travel+dress.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjwhxUcZiZ6SB08zMghshJ-1valWVtFVv4wKmthwI9ywLid4gC01BCm2XDuIWUaFm8GNPTKsDeoHhbHYAMCiuQUEIo-SqZaYPB3zN2z8Tqe66UIUBErpXyawZDzCz2yjCWuWYytiCKTfc/s640/White+travel+dress.jpe" width="478" /></a></div>
I love the navy dots and stripes and the high-low hem on this dress but I regret eliminating the skirt gathers. The pink travel dress is very full because of the skirt gathers so I eliminated them for the white dress. The problem is that the white dress is form fitted over the abdomen and therefore a bit unforgiving in white. The dress highlights the curve of my abdomen. I wish I had placed a few pleats or added two inches of ease to the abdomen of the white dress. I would need a pretty long jacket to hide the problem. Live and learn.<br />
I have been working on easy jackets and have four to share with you soon! Enjoy the summer.Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-799638730051188422015-08-28T22:14:00.001-05:002015-08-28T22:14:48.847-05:00<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyqh15Wf8aXjcBqwMGtWe9aD8JDE9Ov-6U1hWv4RgimwEeWVsKL6hVgVvGqvwBkeaswE2g-smvHT6kH5jREVFqvRkppp06MDzjn3akdvGfzn77xQnq2Q67u-ejdVzZod1nvIOqMtmPz8A/s1600/Aqua+Navy+tee.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyqh15Wf8aXjcBqwMGtWe9aD8JDE9Ov-6U1hWv4RgimwEeWVsKL6hVgVvGqvwBkeaswE2g-smvHT6kH5jREVFqvRkppp06MDzjn3akdvGfzn77xQnq2Q67u-ejdVzZod1nvIOqMtmPz8A/s640/Aqua+Navy+tee.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Over the summer I finished graduate school and began a new job as a teacher. My sewing time is scarce as I adapt to the new job so this knit top is the only garment I made during August. I like the aqua/navy cotton knit purchased from the <a href="http://www.myvoguefabrics.com/voguebymailonline/bymail.htm">Vogue Fabrics bimonthly swatch club.</a> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The pattern is <a href="https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=Burda+6838&ei=UTF-8&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-004">Burda 6838</a>. One important factor to consider when sewing knits is which size pattern to choose. Knits with minimal stretch require a larger size than normal, and other knits may demand you instead size down. I sized up with this knit and found the garment too large so I sized back down to my normal size during construction. Even simple knit garments should be made up in a test fabric first. I did not make a test garment because of time constraints and I am grateful the final garment worked out. However, I feel it is more fun to sew a garment that has been fit corrected first via test garment.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Many of you extended good wishes to me during graduate school and the recent job search, and your good wishes brought me a new job so thank you very much for your kindness. I do not plan to say much about my job on this blog to protect the privacy of my students, but I can say I am happy to have found this teaching opportunity. I will miss teaching fashion/sewing at College of DuPage, a school with a phenomenal fashion design program, but sewing will continue! </span></span>Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-24206050821403002142015-07-25T20:27:00.004-05:002015-07-25T20:28:58.027-05:00Two Months to Sew a Denim Blazer!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I started a denim blazer back in early June thinking that my sewing schedule would return to normal after two years of graduate studies. Just before the graduation ceremony I decided to take four extra classes over the summer so my sewing was again delayed. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Well, the four classes are completed and I finished the blazer. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7nk2k-9_DFXq764pxB1WcYzqf5xPchRXYT4-EzFf35hHw3moJE8kHbAYh4zvjYr80ZuK2qDIW0s71Y70dPVaFAG97EnDws7K8wQUinB_7KrKmNB-OfW6OlC44hoHCzZFadP0ONzJwrcs/s1600/Denim+Blazer+Done+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7nk2k-9_DFXq764pxB1WcYzqf5xPchRXYT4-EzFf35hHw3moJE8kHbAYh4zvjYr80ZuK2qDIW0s71Y70dPVaFAG97EnDws7K8wQUinB_7KrKmNB-OfW6OlC44hoHCzZFadP0ONzJwrcs/s640/Denim+Blazer+Done+1.JPG" width="480" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">There is no interfacing in this jacket; I relied solely upon the fabric weight for structure.</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-EAxkZNDucUifMFS6KMYZksZXFrWgnzLQyMCSR7GRuzZ4uA01dF54VOj3YIedww4ounIH6CQCxrHe8GRkiaGYb2GSuE4qvWYaJcxdDVRKW5_2f_LNb_esNKXtT69-c0jEawt_c6JwNDo/s1600/Denim+Blazer+Done+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-EAxkZNDucUifMFS6KMYZksZXFrWgnzLQyMCSR7GRuzZ4uA01dF54VOj3YIedww4ounIH6CQCxrHe8GRkiaGYb2GSuE4qvWYaJcxdDVRKW5_2f_LNb_esNKXtT69-c0jEawt_c6JwNDo/s640/Denim+Blazer+Done+2.JPG" width="480" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Flat Fell Seams are synonymous with denim.</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC_Turj9heFWHV1UJ1nX0HM5h0RXsbO_0KkbJbHpK8SUr6zSIfxCd9VtPHBVO46gahoeIyfIKfJiH-Sl-YqLJE61S0eR1E1rG_GkFu6bZPkt0pfFNlY3ogOjosSGoUwLe43WBPCwg-1p8/s1600/Denim+Blazer+Done+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC_Turj9heFWHV1UJ1nX0HM5h0RXsbO_0KkbJbHpK8SUr6zSIfxCd9VtPHBVO46gahoeIyfIKfJiH-Sl-YqLJE61S0eR1E1rG_GkFu6bZPkt0pfFNlY3ogOjosSGoUwLe43WBPCwg-1p8/s640/Denim+Blazer+Done+3.JPG" width="480" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The top three buttonholes are functional.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Here are a few construction details.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">1. I used an evaporating marking pen to mark the exact placement of the collar panel at the neck/shoulder seam. See the "X" below. It is very easy to be inaccurate sewing this area and the appearance of the collar and laps is greatly affected.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0z-QKxzIsCHOpoUn32ynboTsMuX-KojEIxhor5efdNPkAi_W3klSyMTATMtzyBynfoWuHvMeqLf9AdAslEhD6jTGEdNGI6vJx04-0OBJwJToAZf12N1lEquhjTJPsbJKW-gjDOZ8o1jw/s1600/Denim+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0z-QKxzIsCHOpoUn32ynboTsMuX-KojEIxhor5efdNPkAi_W3klSyMTATMtzyBynfoWuHvMeqLf9AdAslEhD6jTGEdNGI6vJx04-0OBJwJToAZf12N1lEquhjTJPsbJKW-gjDOZ8o1jw/s400/Denim+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Neckline of Jacket Back</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Here are the collar panels joined at center back. I fused interfacing at the corners, marked the exact stitching lines with the evaporating ink marking pen, and stay stitched the corners. These steps are not difficult nor time-consuming but they ensure I will stitch the seam just once. By the way, the jacket is completely non-interfaced but for these two small squares. My thinking was that the jacket is a mid-weight stable denim and should not hang too firmly. I haven't made a jacket without interfacing in at least two decades! A leap of faith.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvqC7CYqndhkSMLOy2JN6OqzL-uJDApDPZDLsMK4wEGbJjsIDSa672Y7nJ8INquCim9kEIA7tY30pf7oJ-RvruQ1SKckx7QnsYWK_v2p-8Ut7_OOn1bNLvxUWPdbRBiRDmag88YVEHcro/s1600/Denim+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvqC7CYqndhkSMLOy2JN6OqzL-uJDApDPZDLsMK4wEGbJjsIDSa672Y7nJ8INquCim9kEIA7tY30pf7oJ-RvruQ1SKckx7QnsYWK_v2p-8Ut7_OOn1bNLvxUWPdbRBiRDmag88YVEHcro/s400/Denim+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Clip to the stitching lines which are reinforced with interfacing and stay stitching. I marked the stitching lines so I could see exactly where to stitch.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Here is the shoulder/back neckline seam. Note the two sharp corners on either side of the neck. All the marking/stay-stitching/interfacing paid off!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib03jh0L6q5vdyJ6VrCIpyYw3jk8u5VLgVcJkSk1G_V85zZrfQ-gCOHFSPgMm0PtwzNnUEkq9CCY6OjpO0t3Ew0gQNuzo5jNZsKQu7lCESFWk2KIprJhCsTUy3FkhQ1KnvIEn-sRpUrLc/s1600/Denim+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib03jh0L6q5vdyJ6VrCIpyYw3jk8u5VLgVcJkSk1G_V85zZrfQ-gCOHFSPgMm0PtwzNnUEkq9CCY6OjpO0t3Ew0gQNuzo5jNZsKQu7lCESFWk2KIprJhCsTUy3FkhQ1KnvIEn-sRpUrLc/s400/Denim+3.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">View of shoulder and neck seam from inside. Note the seam allowance wides towards the sleeve because I am using a thinner shoulder pad than the pattern expects.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif0HRayVc4r_w7LfcF_67X-noZvAX6l2qAkclliK_O2G4KmIDcRN8Gjbt5A2m1y34GOEp6EjCeDF7FNjSVpe1DWo8CGD7-xPpD2Nw33MxftM26J98ZwLjEric8HNkxu4VAq3xVS6_aHFc/s1600/Denim+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif0HRayVc4r_w7LfcF_67X-noZvAX6l2qAkclliK_O2G4KmIDcRN8Gjbt5A2m1y34GOEp6EjCeDF7FNjSVpe1DWo8CGD7-xPpD2Nw33MxftM26J98ZwLjEric8HNkxu4VAq3xVS6_aHFc/s400/Denim+4.jpg" width="300" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">2. Armhole looks good with the thin shoulder pad.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_oRplQFTgZHo1FlhW_6uJTviEwSKRwQYtPdOIc1iSXKDFBnSqwDaRjd92LEkE4INnsX5d8y4t3w9sK3J9tE4Rmiv6ZY04ge-UHPqOt0kjlewJhqiiSHqx9M2znp2Hi3OTi75DObYru4Q/s1600/Denim+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_oRplQFTgZHo1FlhW_6uJTviEwSKRwQYtPdOIc1iSXKDFBnSqwDaRjd92LEkE4INnsX5d8y4t3w9sK3J9tE4Rmiv6ZY04ge-UHPqOt0kjlewJhqiiSHqx9M2znp2Hi3OTi75DObYru4Q/s400/Denim+5.jpg" width="300" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">3. I used a cool floral lining for the jacket. I wanted a print that related to the vintage theme but added color just the same. The lining is polyester. I usually line in silk rather than polyester but for no particular reason I felt silk was a mismatch with the faded denim.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGlucKu1FDaxtGXM1yJHIBiQ4L9LRHvZD41xY7B38UX9KrNjT34MIfMOLaIBjSgVaA33q-dFTU5rTL1tVQvJxUVtlgyoursNpKx06UO0rYx6BGOdTNdZylrkul4CQTEo0nJg6XAjHhQfo/s1600/Floral+lining.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGlucKu1FDaxtGXM1yJHIBiQ4L9LRHvZD41xY7B38UX9KrNjT34MIfMOLaIBjSgVaA33q-dFTU5rTL1tVQvJxUVtlgyoursNpKx06UO0rYx6BGOdTNdZylrkul4CQTEo0nJg6XAjHhQfo/s400/Floral+lining.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">4. To build roll into the collar, I pinned the neck edges of the garment and facing at the back neck edge. The two seams will be hand stitched together soon but for now they are just pinned.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMjB4uvfOPoovArQIo3NSsP_pRYsjM-NXIt-DH4n236R_56v4kJsl9YKQZWgNighUSU76kUl-Vpex4K2GXAnqIu8QwoZrbKQABuyDyoBe9Qem1XCctJAOBio5vx4uDOfXoFbXq8pZS3w0/s1600/Denim+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMjB4uvfOPoovArQIo3NSsP_pRYsjM-NXIt-DH4n236R_56v4kJsl9YKQZWgNighUSU76kUl-Vpex4K2GXAnqIu8QwoZrbKQABuyDyoBe9Qem1XCctJAOBio5vx4uDOfXoFbXq8pZS3w0/s400/Denim+6.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I roll the collar back in place keeping the under and top collars aligned.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjggwJML9VRr8nu9f2-rUrVYcPxCvdmLltTwj7MY4kuo_wPtaIbQByQOJf-4rHJ07TprdaRQyJyz9AhE-idh7T2PLtC3ET6naUyy115_4bpbxc0LLEqLrZkJvYZxudbJkrWxbPvqw4E3X4/s1600/Denim+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjggwJML9VRr8nu9f2-rUrVYcPxCvdmLltTwj7MY4kuo_wPtaIbQByQOJf-4rHJ07TprdaRQyJyz9AhE-idh7T2PLtC3ET6naUyy115_4bpbxc0LLEqLrZkJvYZxudbJkrWxbPvqw4E3X4/s320/Denim+7.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">See how the under collar extends beyond the top collar in the photo below? This happens when the under and top collar patterns are the same. I removed the excess fabric so the collar rolls nicely. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7JE_mqaTJcZsXaRb3VrRNqxVqPXy227TuJCSNXzWKWuDpIIdeSxf3uOxKGOc6G_BDWkwE0TjsgmJo2Nqx9EP__xvAELCileScZx1xnhuDAhCLLMy8ifvO5h4o-xS2uWPoza6nUpN5ehs/s1600/Denim+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7JE_mqaTJcZsXaRb3VrRNqxVqPXy227TuJCSNXzWKWuDpIIdeSxf3uOxKGOc6G_BDWkwE0TjsgmJo2Nqx9EP__xvAELCileScZx1xnhuDAhCLLMy8ifvO5h4o-xS2uWPoza6nUpN5ehs/s400/Denim+8.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Below is a photo that shows the garment and facing stitched right sides together. You can see 1/2" of under collar fabric sticking out along the back. This is trimmed away.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Tm4eeJCDKWrYqxukes-R8JAiYi81DCl_rpx0TjOggq6j9Cu2BLhWtB27NFb-QyDlzqsa3Pt2_9czcVX4Z_SsqV7nlaVDRuulWSOFm_7AATs2lyNpsiySIF84qrnLQggWkPFZQbaotwQ/s1600/Denim+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Tm4eeJCDKWrYqxukes-R8JAiYi81DCl_rpx0TjOggq6j9Cu2BLhWtB27NFb-QyDlzqsa3Pt2_9czcVX4Z_SsqV7nlaVDRuulWSOFm_7AATs2lyNpsiySIF84qrnLQggWkPFZQbaotwQ/s400/Denim+9.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I have so many projects planned and my flower garden is gorgeous. A great summer!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwa1fhNa9wLrWvjhu9_0yhRMXct9-OC6rj8DPCjPZtmXK-NliPrtSrxJ5X3PTjEBaikY4iytxQs99-tnAkmWRrTEXsmvP0BmdzDnbVGPOCUvC7FFbD0aAcWwjtVJ4TPsQhCDFn7xClKA0/s1600/Flowers.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwa1fhNa9wLrWvjhu9_0yhRMXct9-OC6rj8DPCjPZtmXK-NliPrtSrxJ5X3PTjEBaikY4iytxQs99-tnAkmWRrTEXsmvP0BmdzDnbVGPOCUvC7FFbD0aAcWwjtVJ4TPsQhCDFn7xClKA0/s640/Flowers.JPG" width="480" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKHWw_8o6GJgqhSSwSPjv5isxLJea8bo3vkR8vH2hiVSYYjYnvnMbpsngbZ-CncHNjEBp3b7UtozccsiIMoykBcfyEKcySsfJtCaMfbKK41002m3a0aUQY5daoyP-suDz-Jx7WUQLzW4/s1600/Ann+Graduation+Portrait.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKHWw_8o6GJgqhSSwSPjv5isxLJea8bo3vkR8vH2hiVSYYjYnvnMbpsngbZ-CncHNjEBp3b7UtozccsiIMoykBcfyEKcySsfJtCaMfbKK41002m3a0aUQY5daoyP-suDz-Jx7WUQLzW4/s400/Ann+Graduation+Portrait.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy to graduate!</td></tr>
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Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-30101285665399742162015-06-08T14:11:00.000-05:002015-06-08T14:11:58.544-05:00Spring 2015 Dior JacketI love the diagonal line of buttons on this embroidered linen jacket.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6v8IlHXVoLefgqxKOQeeX0Y_Hj2ikgwc6_EtgMDlrHhbFSpuQV-rfvjgS3tHPWhz780Pz7ZujXLWaph_Ay5XayVUlwaNtu9dm3MDqfLISJ8CjxA3JLzP4YaMQKBgVXWVY231JeI6oLCE/s1600/Dior+Jacket0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6v8IlHXVoLefgqxKOQeeX0Y_Hj2ikgwc6_EtgMDlrHhbFSpuQV-rfvjgS3tHPWhz780Pz7ZujXLWaph_Ay5XayVUlwaNtu9dm3MDqfLISJ8CjxA3JLzP4YaMQKBgVXWVY231JeI6oLCE/s400/Dior+Jacket0001.jpg" width="355" /></a></div>
While I like the entire outfit, I do not wish to make it. I would like to make a more traditional-style blazer that does not cut away to reveal my abdomen (you guess the reason). I will also omit the colorful embroidery. Sometimes I duplicate a designer garment closely, but this time I am taking inspiration only from the buttons and buttonholes. I am looking for year-round wearability in a casual but unique jacket.<br />
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I purchased very bleached out cotton denim from Fabric.com. It is light blue, but barely. No holes or rips though. Denim makes great jackets; they go with everything.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGNldWtHPE1SoyJocOG8AdgTzkIDZ8Q9GRRF4oRqVaNyfz5AlHucHbr0Jgt5Zg1ItXwrqk-M2kgyBKIvQhS52-Tvv2Lr_WxIF2pPxJNrq2Or0cHoZ4o-l6It7q5Ln3zzqTnDnS68EMxjg/s1600/WO+denim+fabric.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGNldWtHPE1SoyJocOG8AdgTzkIDZ8Q9GRRF4oRqVaNyfz5AlHucHbr0Jgt5Zg1ItXwrqk-M2kgyBKIvQhS52-Tvv2Lr_WxIF2pPxJNrq2Or0cHoZ4o-l6It7q5Ln3zzqTnDnS68EMxjg/s400/WO+denim+fabric.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
Any blazer style will work but I like the large lapel on Silhouette #1953. I will place buttons and buttonholes along the lower edge of the right lapel from lapel corner to where side seam meets hem. Here is the jacket muslin:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZTb6L55u7EQb1jDsxRrctX8MzlbQv66qR1PnGZmn8kpjqo6Gu1ektP1h_4rJ17Bs-D7WJOOEphyphenhypheniR8CYmzyuCOvzNGM4z365W1Yd-b1VGfDniTr164p3Vf4D2nfozt80l38QYYb-91To/s1600/Jkt+Muslin+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZTb6L55u7EQb1jDsxRrctX8MzlbQv66qR1PnGZmn8kpjqo6Gu1ektP1h_4rJ17Bs-D7WJOOEphyphenhypheniR8CYmzyuCOvzNGM4z365W1Yd-b1VGfDniTr164p3Vf4D2nfozt80l38QYYb-91To/s400/Jkt+Muslin+2.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
Fit is good but I will add a little more ease in the hip area, 1-2" total. The pattern uses 1" shoulder pads, but I have placed much thinner pads under the muslin. It is easy to make me look broad-shouldered, so I am opting for a smaller pad. I will have to adjust the angle of the shoulder seam, making no change at the neck but stitching an additional 1/4" at the armhole. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZjwkiqUan89CpGm-Gcnfu1KryGOj-4XZLhCrHDNqxmu2Tmux0DxdKTYuBBPCt5ASxJVINItLsk90bkDUkcnkPH85YhTlkvzHQBL3cmiRFX5ELVBoO1yEFKQnv4k0JX2oEh8svVAJe59Y/s1600/Jkt+Muslin+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZjwkiqUan89CpGm-Gcnfu1KryGOj-4XZLhCrHDNqxmu2Tmux0DxdKTYuBBPCt5ASxJVINItLsk90bkDUkcnkPH85YhTlkvzHQBL3cmiRFX5ELVBoO1yEFKQnv4k0JX2oEh8svVAJe59Y/s400/Jkt+Muslin+3.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">extra room because of the small shoulder pad</span></td></tr>
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I may raise the underarm a little bit, perhaps 1/2". I want to fit layers under the jacket so I won't overdo the close fit. Fit in back is fine.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHeRow9fYqNEvQGTzV8ZIQETK0YaVPXrtjHKS7Xj1oUDq5gXAEUqooba7pQE_wtGRu_Vn7lO6NMJJbCVQvbcWWV_iFPaHqo8fCbhuEURj09mFWvAEaIDFHT24aJ6ufdnaSz2G0Cw-Vsvs/s1600/Jkt+Muslin+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHeRow9fYqNEvQGTzV8ZIQETK0YaVPXrtjHKS7Xj1oUDq5gXAEUqooba7pQE_wtGRu_Vn7lO6NMJJbCVQvbcWWV_iFPaHqo8fCbhuEURj09mFWvAEaIDFHT24aJ6ufdnaSz2G0Cw-Vsvs/s320/Jkt+Muslin+4.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
It feels so nice to be sewing for enjoyment again. Many of you noticed my absence from blogging January-May 2015. My graduate school commitments kept me busy. I am looking forward to graduation end of June, and a more manageable schedule once again. I earned a masters in special education, and endorsements in Spanish and bilingual education. Please wish me luck as I search for a new teaching position in special education or bilingual education!Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-89111756411111197552015-06-08T13:47:00.003-05:002015-06-08T13:48:31.986-05:00Embellishment with Nail HeadsThe Simplicity 1277 dress I just completed might have been a bit dull without the nail head embellishment.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoQty-M4Y8FM9cUwqsNPLLgoxlcPusyiNFyhUPT3vdsJfCQ1udHOOP_2GDyMJLi4mt7t2jojTRkLMMh0VYGbWtdpP7CUHl-1DT-z26axoTYwYMPsKES3OpKXzh6aV94boux4c9i6OgmfQ/s1600/Denim+Dress+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoQty-M4Y8FM9cUwqsNPLLgoxlcPusyiNFyhUPT3vdsJfCQ1udHOOP_2GDyMJLi4mt7t2jojTRkLMMh0VYGbWtdpP7CUHl-1DT-z26axoTYwYMPsKES3OpKXzh6aV94boux4c9i6OgmfQ/s400/Denim+Dress+1.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidKIWCpApt5BT0rAs8fv6HD_ANj3TBCCnpNqLJmlI9geQE8cVN3rBvU3-TRexVwvQc2aF_L4Kxybwj4WbJicFV73SG2Ud-IkIHjntK1KrzvgijdVtQQalBH6MieUWvm3xUsECWRdv-7RE/s1600/Denim+Dress+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidKIWCpApt5BT0rAs8fv6HD_ANj3TBCCnpNqLJmlI9geQE8cVN3rBvU3-TRexVwvQc2aF_L4Kxybwj4WbJicFV73SG2Ud-IkIHjntK1KrzvgijdVtQQalBH6MieUWvm3xUsECWRdv-7RE/s400/Denim+Dress+2.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
I would wear the dress with black strappy sandals in the evening, perhaps with a biker-style jacket on top (I have sewn many!). For day flip flops are fine, for fall weather, perhaps black leather boots and a jacket.<br />
The nail heads were purchased from M&J Trim online, 100 6mm antique gold round nail heads for $5. I used a heat tool to apply each individual nail head.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO85z7mmmeKpciPUWmSp63_8PkBS_BQVRxcSPG_M267sQN6UwRnZ5kwEcUso9mQ47hkuGqNsfL9Ggg-Ck8Y8dGBQozTb_V41ojG81iBt9jtsqbzU-SPAVV8G_1zJZ9JXgcdxPYRkUbESg/s1600/End+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO85z7mmmeKpciPUWmSp63_8PkBS_BQVRxcSPG_M267sQN6UwRnZ5kwEcUso9mQ47hkuGqNsfL9Ggg-Ck8Y8dGBQozTb_V41ojG81iBt9jtsqbzU-SPAVV8G_1zJZ9JXgcdxPYRkUbESg/s1600/End+5.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">"Heat-fix" or "hot-fix" tools come with a variety of "tips" to accommodate various sizes of crystals.</span></td></tr>
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The tool heats up within two minutes. The tool tip is extremely hot so never test it for readiness by touched it. Instead, attempt to attach a crystal to a scrap of fabric and judge the result. When the crystal is attached, it will be uncomfortably hot to touch, so use an insulated glove to press each crystal in place.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQORMszqEdCle6hrdyxBEOQ2mUSiejsgLxy5Pc3t3dPPmcpBL7bhOFoNNzGA7V4XwYkb-LIQjt3aEsphThkvCU5-3V1VAdckiPe_h76TnWc6PQZbJHSjtiN4kUUrwbgDvGFrTkjNFT2IM/s1600/End+6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQORMszqEdCle6hrdyxBEOQ2mUSiejsgLxy5Pc3t3dPPmcpBL7bhOFoNNzGA7V4XwYkb-LIQjt3aEsphThkvCU5-3V1VAdckiPe_h76TnWc6PQZbJHSjtiN4kUUrwbgDvGFrTkjNFT2IM/s1600/End+6.JPG" /></a></div>
I bought my tool more than ten years ago. I believe they are still readily available.<br />
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Back to Simplicity 1277. The dress has diagonal top-stitching on the bodice side front and side back panels that are perfect for embellishment. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg995O63Z5JLDR0ZYOGUX9a5fMfva8oVOlVol0J-LOU0ZGm4UsP8_5BxCLNhZavUzW-XzozQlg6owTPuGP1V19oIUM5eA2LZaZUtDa0mbpM58KS0hvC6mQvESm2SinZYKMRVfiS0RW6VuQ/s1600/End+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg995O63Z5JLDR0ZYOGUX9a5fMfva8oVOlVol0J-LOU0ZGm4UsP8_5BxCLNhZavUzW-XzozQlg6owTPuGP1V19oIUM5eA2LZaZUtDa0mbpM58KS0hvC6mQvESm2SinZYKMRVfiS0RW6VuQ/s1600/End+7.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Near the point of the waist seam, you see what looks like two nail heads too close together. I dropped a heated nail head and it landed in the wrong place, so you are seeing one nail head and one blob of glue that will I will use tweezers to pull off the garment when the glue has cooled. The embellishment doesn't look like much at this point.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwvMapBxbX8ey5i1bFyC_fspXA1Sc25zREDfPHFEgQyPeYcdVtqAYgaaBnUa588oM4anOiOa4Y1TWwo8QBFzfrYKodUb6lK3WApB5WyApNByjNRwg51MEm18VOBDKUlnu-JKFYlVmlFYw/s1600/End+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwvMapBxbX8ey5i1bFyC_fspXA1Sc25zREDfPHFEgQyPeYcdVtqAYgaaBnUa588oM4anOiOa4Y1TWwo8QBFzfrYKodUb6lK3WApB5WyApNByjNRwg51MEm18VOBDKUlnu-JKFYlVmlFYw/s1600/End+1.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The design is building but at this point I am wishing I had placed the diagonal stitching lines further apart so I could attach fewer crystals. It will take at least two hours to affix each crystal in place, and I expect to use almost 400 crystals.</span></td></tr>
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June 2015<br />
Well, it took over 400 nail head crystals but the result is cool. Next time I will place the nail heads a little further apart as it took almost 8 hours to affix the crystals!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoQty-M4Y8FM9cUwqsNPLLgoxlcPusyiNFyhUPT3vdsJfCQ1udHOOP_2GDyMJLi4mt7t2jojTRkLMMh0VYGbWtdpP7CUHl-1DT-z26axoTYwYMPsKES3OpKXzh6aV94boux4c9i6OgmfQ/s1600/Denim+Dress+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoQty-M4Y8FM9cUwqsNPLLgoxlcPusyiNFyhUPT3vdsJfCQ1udHOOP_2GDyMJLi4mt7t2jojTRkLMMh0VYGbWtdpP7CUHl-1DT-z26axoTYwYMPsKES3OpKXzh6aV94boux4c9i6OgmfQ/s320/Denim+Dress+1.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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The dress might have been a bit dull without the nail heads, but it can be dressed up or down easily depending upon shoes/boots and accessories.Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-20741467946109917812015-06-08T13:33:00.002-05:002015-06-08T13:33:41.988-05:00Two Tutorials are FinishedDuring the Spring semester at College of DuPage, I taught Clothing Construction One. We made a dress, Simplicity 1277, and a blouse, McCall's 6898. Though the students finished their garments weeks ago, I did not find the time to finish mine until now. To conclude the tutorials, here are the final photos. The gold nail heads on the dress will be discussed in a separate post later today.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhazsBzkYx5dT5Fy5N9-E8Fp6xJbq9OWel-SO_ylFzxiPD1k67g7L6Q_0U8TXiCD8fDmlj5zMAt7e-7beImyavCu9_zcBcWbiW_Zdd73DBQ7CT7jkyMFkblfE8-wexfuFK_7hMc6sE3FeA/s1600/Denim+Dress+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhazsBzkYx5dT5Fy5N9-E8Fp6xJbq9OWel-SO_ylFzxiPD1k67g7L6Q_0U8TXiCD8fDmlj5zMAt7e-7beImyavCu9_zcBcWbiW_Zdd73DBQ7CT7jkyMFkblfE8-wexfuFK_7hMc6sE3FeA/s400/Denim+Dress+2.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simplicity 1277</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If the garment does not look familiar to you, refer back to my posts beginning 2/10/15.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtwgiujDqRY0sZz0_4v3vQRTjTkMSGrhl_EGbgCowBiQ3sQYKnxXcypOzKPPUMMi1qq5CUuijn9eDZBFiHMy2pI_wP3W3jfrxUBKfFznCIF1egCfXMNB4L6BZUnTqq3xgqNtq1MfymGhg/s1600/Denim+Dress+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtwgiujDqRY0sZz0_4v3vQRTjTkMSGrhl_EGbgCowBiQ3sQYKnxXcypOzKPPUMMi1qq5CUuijn9eDZBFiHMy2pI_wP3W3jfrxUBKfFznCIF1egCfXMNB4L6BZUnTqq3xgqNtq1MfymGhg/s400/Denim+Dress+1.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heat-fix nail heads on side panels</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3xjf1vyn2UjOs1hr_9EJ2LVMpLeyTsaJRym5KlElDXsHMX0ZNYOnyBBbQTvu_YDF7FRR55n1gHqqwmKchW2s38JRmSAoHCRSXbJIntEEeXi619BKdLaMkqhXC3Qb8hpLUsaA0npxWW8A/s1600/Denim+Dress+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3xjf1vyn2UjOs1hr_9EJ2LVMpLeyTsaJRym5KlElDXsHMX0ZNYOnyBBbQTvu_YDF7FRR55n1gHqqwmKchW2s38JRmSAoHCRSXbJIntEEeXi619BKdLaMkqhXC3Qb8hpLUsaA0npxWW8A/s400/Denim+Dress+3.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from front</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A traditional button-down shirt is a great learning tool. Here are photos of McCall's 6898. The step-by-step tutorial began on 3/19/15.<br />
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Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-17736294744513746262015-04-11T19:25:00.001-05:002015-06-08T13:21:40.195-05:00Steps 18, 19 & 20 - McCall's 6898Here are steps 18 through 20 in a 20 step tutorial on McCall's shirt 6898. Please see the Blog Archive for previous steps.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd9hgLIBav6FutK5jFqbgFmIPaZbHFu53nE1Q_c__c82B1pmvdKm1-EkCxiC2X0AkOZvEtM36kuRZifEEv7hq1kQf2uLMLCF4x5YNZk9VbGmaQg024rsEqPnxbx2dgqeBXxsd1iWN5zCU/s1600/6898.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd9hgLIBav6FutK5jFqbgFmIPaZbHFu53nE1Q_c__c82B1pmvdKm1-EkCxiC2X0AkOZvEtM36kuRZifEEv7hq1kQf2uLMLCF4x5YNZk9VbGmaQg024rsEqPnxbx2dgqeBXxsd1iWN5zCU/s1600/6898.jpg" width="154" /></a></div>
<b>Step 18 Buttonholes</b><br />
Mark one or two buttonholes on the cuff. In the photo I have marked
two buttonholes, each 5/8" long and one inch apart. The buttonholes
should begin 1/2" from the short edge of the cuff, on the overlap side rather than the underlap side. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg21Z-QDAyW4rT67e60ofa9WXXAsGypPVFhyphenhyphenSm7I8vVwyjY9MfCCyOBKjwamJhPwto1AWkkZp90dAfbs0Zy7uS4bN8nqVfMq-dBGgsf1DZqiZ3xx2jefYCHatXR_38tsc5HUxyl7hWpr-A/s1600/Buttonhole1.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg21Z-QDAyW4rT67e60ofa9WXXAsGypPVFhyphenhyphenSm7I8vVwyjY9MfCCyOBKjwamJhPwto1AWkkZp90dAfbs0Zy7uS4bN8nqVfMq-dBGgsf1DZqiZ3xx2jefYCHatXR_38tsc5HUxyl7hWpr-A/s320/Buttonhole1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Stitch the cuff buttonholes. <br />
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Mark
buttonholes on the right side of the shirt garment (left for men). First mark the location of
the highest buttonhole that will be buttoned closed when wearing; this
is typically at the fullest part of the chest. Space the
other buttonholes 2-3" apart from the bottom of one buttonhole to the top of the next. Each buttonhole is 1/8" longer than the button size. Center the buttonholes on the front band. <br />
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If you wish, add a buttonhole to the sleeve placket. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrzq2v6nTVVmEtX3ij0WcONYsG_B0WXhWTGiy-iwI179lQ11gQpMJaJQVi47LHuetUTt3IK4tXNisrF4agpz8khGftrbtOLnR612DRsf5piveUEe8F6MlTmSed72iAgx3cX962zqI_DFM/s1600/Buttonhole4.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrzq2v6nTVVmEtX3ij0WcONYsG_B0WXhWTGiy-iwI179lQ11gQpMJaJQVi47LHuetUTt3IK4tXNisrF4agpz8khGftrbtOLnR612DRsf5piveUEe8F6MlTmSed72iAgx3cX962zqI_DFM/s400/Buttonhole4.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
Cut open buttonholes with a buttonhole cutter or by folding buttonhole in half lengthwise and carefully cut open with scissors. <br />
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<b>Step 19 Buttons</b> <br />
Determine
button placement by laying right front band over left front band.
Place a pin through the cut open buttonhole 1/4 of the way down the
buttonhole. Pull the pin through the buttonhole to the left front; pin
marks location you will center the button. <br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHI1O-xHsFqkYXV5zbDGEbl05vhjfeJKmGO-_EFhPldv5rNgRtdEV4-VE3Btb5wWVUVu4lfuCrFBhC4uSkFQ4NKBEaOF7hC2WQy5iegZ1WcE4Yexw_8PWeZW_C4L9mXEMTN8-YRbqozQc/s1600/PlaceButton.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHI1O-xHsFqkYXV5zbDGEbl05vhjfeJKmGO-_EFhPldv5rNgRtdEV4-VE3Btb5wWVUVu4lfuCrFBhC4uSkFQ4NKBEaOF7hC2WQy5iegZ1WcE4Yexw_8PWeZW_C4L9mXEMTN8-YRbqozQc/s400/PlaceButton.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
Buttons can be stitched on by machine or by hand. A machine photo is to come. To hand sew, use
a double strand of thread and a hand sewing needle to attach buttons
loosely to left front. The buttons must be loose to allow for the
thickness of the right front. <br />
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<b>Step 20 Chest Pocket</b><br />
<br />
Press
under 1/2" on lower and side edges of pocket. Press lower edge first.
It helps to pin in place and iron between the pins. In the below photo, the top raw edge should be serged to clean finish it.<br />
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Press a miter at the lower corners.<br />
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Fold top edge right sides together along 1 1/4" fold line. Stitch and trim.<br />
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Turn pocket right side out and press. Triangles are stitched at the top of the pocket. They are no more than 1/4" wide.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-3SY7uFSI_POzsjkYkyHJBrnvxTLXJkPYbKJD-qbVjckxxaIKFEuJdwyxWnL3zGBdnVFTR8c8iJf9BtBinEu4T2RUtuQnM6hb4jMqA1ybRhxvNaP0ELiad1jIzLeRtEquPy486kJtxEc/s1600/FinPocket.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="342" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-3SY7uFSI_POzsjkYkyHJBrnvxTLXJkPYbKJD-qbVjckxxaIKFEuJdwyxWnL3zGBdnVFTR8c8iJf9BtBinEu4T2RUtuQnM6hb4jMqA1ybRhxvNaP0ELiad1jIzLeRtEquPy486kJtxEc/s400/FinPocket.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Stitching guidelines are marked with air erasable marker and ruler</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
To find the proper pocket placement on the chest,
you will need to experiment. If the pocket is low the bust will appear
to sag. If the pocket is too close to the side seam, the bust will
appear wide. The blouse front pattern tissue suggests the pocket be
placed 1 5/8" from the front band. Stitch the pocket in place with a
1/4" triangle at the top for strength.<br />
<br />
Give garment a final press. You are finished!<br />
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<b> </b>Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-41268951096255853212015-04-10T21:49:00.006-05:002015-04-10T21:49:56.662-05:00Steps 15, 16, & 17 - McCall's 6898These are steps 15 through 17 for construction of McCall's 6898; see Blog Archive for other steps.<br />
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<b>Steps 15 & 16 Build Cuff</b><br />
Press 1/2-5/8" on long un-notched edge of cuff.<br />
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Fold and press pleats into sleeve as marked. You may need to adjust the depth of these pleats later to fit the cuff.<br />
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Stitch cuff to lower portion of sleeve, adjusting pleats as needed. Be sure that all pleats are the same depth.<br />
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Press seam allowances down towards cuff. Trim.<br />
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Fold cuff right sides together, placing fold 1/8" past edge of cuff that joins to lower sleeve. Stitch seam.<br />
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Trim seam allowances, then turn cuff right side out. Press.<br />
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Fold down pressed edge 1/8" past joining seam line. Pin in place on inside of cuff.<br />
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Stitch in ditch to close cuff.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP5poXHaSynQNTy1ZiWX5eX6hbCVnXStzyJd7E5CZAOudQXyisj9oHDDmOvTNfiymJjYmwzr39c4MCs1ac2DyODRmZYJQ63vrb_uHyVf4hyYDPrOmvobOu0z7_ruy4yTGCgCi6ZbtTE9E/s1600/Blue+118.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP5poXHaSynQNTy1ZiWX5eX6hbCVnXStzyJd7E5CZAOudQXyisj9oHDDmOvTNfiymJjYmwzr39c4MCs1ac2DyODRmZYJQ63vrb_uHyVf4hyYDPrOmvobOu0z7_ruy4yTGCgCi6ZbtTE9E/s1600/Blue+118.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">View from inside of cuff</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">View from outside of cuff</span></td></tr>
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<b>Step 17 Join Cuff to Sleeve</b><br />
This pattern has a set in sleeve with gathers. Many shirts my COD students are sewing have set in sleeves without gathers. The setting procedures are the same; the difference is in how many gathers are placed in the sleeve cap. Read on.<br />
Stitch two rows of basting threads in sleeve cap, between front and back notches, 1/4" and 1/2" away from raw edge. Do not back tack, and leave the thread tails attached.<br />
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Pull all four threads at each end of sleeve to inside of sleeve.<br />
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Pull up back gathering threads. In the below photo, it appears I am pulling the two threads at the 1/4" stitching line; in truth I am pulling a thread from the 1/4" row and a thread from the 1/2" row.<br />
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Since my sleeve has gathers, I pull up the basting threads to make a gathered sleeve cap. My COD students do not have gathers in their sleeve caps. Therefore they should pull the basting threads to ease or reduce the size of the sleeve cap without gathering it. When you pin the sleeve into the armhole, there will be no gathers or pucks, just pulling of the basting threads to reduce the sleep cap down an inch or two in size.<br />
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Stitch the sleeve into the garment armhole. Press seam allowances down into the sleeve. Clean finish the raw edges by either (1) serging raw edges or (2) hong kong finish the raw edges. It is not particularly easy to serge an armhole given the curved shape.<br />
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The set in sleeve.</div>
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Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-39220456170276219932015-04-07T19:06:00.000-05:002015-04-10T18:58:09.721-05:00Steps 12, 13 & 14 - McCall's 6898<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFt_bLz8xt8Z8UHdgw_zjDHtJJ5nq9iSS8INei7ylEqzzPmDpURy9ogwATpZXYp5CxdgfCeujxkU65w4-WlJmtEoIVrDjqVUzwrZ4sV6-XcbEujTnic2GwuJgy9YGFwz3y7qAH0KpQaYI/s1600/6898.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFt_bLz8xt8Z8UHdgw_zjDHtJJ5nq9iSS8INei7ylEqzzPmDpURy9ogwATpZXYp5CxdgfCeujxkU65w4-WlJmtEoIVrDjqVUzwrZ4sV6-XcbEujTnic2GwuJgy9YGFwz3y7qAH0KpQaYI/s1600/6898.jpg" height="200" width="154" /></a>These are steps 12 through 14 of a tutorial for McCall's shirt 6898. See the Blog Archive for previous steps.<br />
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<b>Steps 12 through 14 Sleeve Tab, Sleeve Placket, Sleeve Seams</b><br />
Sleeves have two different types of sleeve placket. Below is type #1 which has no pattern pieces. Type #2 utilizes a placket pattern which resembles a square with a chimney on top.<br />
Type #1:<br />
Serge to clean finish long edges of seam with placket (top of photo below).<br />
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Stitch long seam back tacking at large circle. The lower 4" of the seam is un-stitched. The opening is the placket. <br />
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View of entire sleeve and seam is below.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglxyKpx-Dmusl2XwCGxxrcrRIZJ0dHj3O7_jgChyphenhyphenuyMnLokpqFb37hRZmEANP5GNtaOqyTfbMI4WYI0ANjZdlqp0HGVnP6Db7JEu1wTPJZYFpH05v9T8aXACD7VNHncZiu46rMSEzN7_E/s1600/Blue+94.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglxyKpx-Dmusl2XwCGxxrcrRIZJ0dHj3O7_jgChyphenhyphenuyMnLokpqFb37hRZmEANP5GNtaOqyTfbMI4WYI0ANjZdlqp0HGVnP6Db7JEu1wTPJZYFpH05v9T8aXACD7VNHncZiu46rMSEzN7_E/s1600/Blue+94.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Press seam allowance open over a ham including opening edges.</div>
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Top stitch opening edges in place from right side of garment.</div>
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Placket Type #2:</div>
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Note I am using photos from a different project to illustrate this placket.</div>
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Press under 3/8" along sides and top of placket. Stitch right side
of placket to wrong side of sleeve matching long rectangular box to
placket line on pattern, shortening stitch length along top corners.
The "chimney" on the placket is towards the side of the sleeve.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHu2XAvq7Eq-lPQItyD5ntF9WLrf1KXz4epZhGSZQ8YuPA8VyA6Ck8YcKpq7nbGCia18UBBuxcTUidTrBb-FgadEAwD88JM3E3Kp3cEjR_kJcmZQ9YyfQljn_bUFJgVECD73bjoepfdzQ/s1600/SlPlacketOne.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHu2XAvq7Eq-lPQItyD5ntF9WLrf1KXz4epZhGSZQ8YuPA8VyA6Ck8YcKpq7nbGCia18UBBuxcTUidTrBb-FgadEAwD88JM3E3Kp3cEjR_kJcmZQ9YyfQljn_bUFJgVECD73bjoepfdzQ/s400/SlPlacketOne.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sleeve placket step one</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Cut down middle of stitched box and angle off to upper corners.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvy_GYCm_9useHD3VmhdB8diDuUc62c9wolY5OTUYPPtvXiMqIuX8h6Hdn0B0XtPnF7qU9HKZpDK1jG3N7zdVh_ZLJSxJ3FBOuz-bBhW6c7-tUVr2RZ_WYCznxAIn-GVpBEz1hlIWs6VI/s1600/CutPlacket.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvy_GYCm_9useHD3VmhdB8diDuUc62c9wolY5OTUYPPtvXiMqIuX8h6Hdn0B0XtPnF7qU9HKZpDK1jG3N7zdVh_ZLJSxJ3FBOuz-bBhW6c7-tUVr2RZ_WYCznxAIn-GVpBEz1hlIWs6VI/s400/CutPlacket.JPG" height="400" width="260" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cut placket box open</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Press placket to right side of sleeve. You are now
looking at the right side of the sleeve and the right side of the sleeve
placket.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNGVi0niea02bZPj3aYY7FvtbKmr9ougpwVhe_qZUe8Le9yMRSyYZmn0GZuwIGzU3oL-eDY2YwmFTD7JWxA9-NmHQZK5Riz41DiC7Ww5gCFi3zDR3Gc6obPYgIfr1_IBCIThZjnVEBVgQ/s1600/SlPlacketTwo.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNGVi0niea02bZPj3aYY7FvtbKmr9ougpwVhe_qZUe8Le9yMRSyYZmn0GZuwIGzU3oL-eDY2YwmFTD7JWxA9-NmHQZK5Riz41DiC7Ww5gCFi3zDR3Gc6obPYgIfr1_IBCIThZjnVEBVgQ/s320/SlPlacketTwo.JPG" height="263" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sleeve placket step two</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Fold shorter side of placket in half, placing pressed
edge over seam. Stitch close to edge, ending at top of rectangular
opening. <br />
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Fold chimney shaped side of placket so pressed edge covers seam. Stitch close to edge, ending at top of rectangle. <br />
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Pin upper edge of placket to sleeve. Stitch close to edges and along top of rectangular opening. Press.<br />
Sleeve Tab:<br />
Fold tab right sides together. Fold top edge to inside 3/8" (see right side of photo below). Stitch 5/8" seam along bottom and side.<br />
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Trim excess seam allowance.</div>
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Turn tab right side out and press. I top-stitched but that is optional.</div>
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I stitched the buttonhole in the tab now--much easier.</div>
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Stitch the tab to the inside of the sleeve.<br />
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Machine stitch the button to the outside of the sleeve on top of the tab connecting seam.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWulsH-KmvdRUSkhjveyK310c9MiuBRAq4Od0-r7LvqiqXZPoq3Gb_FX4gqTVvXAYsYVx08iMgNKPM_kbqSMSNjzIVaYWSMIJGcPCZgvR2yveSSrFow2mtW3hq5TtGDsR9k8QOTdNIF6Q/s1600/Blue+107.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWulsH-KmvdRUSkhjveyK310c9MiuBRAq4Od0-r7LvqiqXZPoq3Gb_FX4gqTVvXAYsYVx08iMgNKPM_kbqSMSNjzIVaYWSMIJGcPCZgvR2yveSSrFow2mtW3hq5TtGDsR9k8QOTdNIF6Q/s1600/Blue+107.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Stitch the remaining vertical sleeve seam in a French seam. See step 1 for review of French seam.<br />
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The sleeves are now complete and ready for cuffs.Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-10363635607650748172015-04-06T15:04:00.000-05:002015-04-07T18:17:09.088-05:00Steps 9, 10, & 11 - McCall's 6898<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivWKFPPnQYNJaICg2AcoJEgNlcJ9S21XBSUzwHmzChLVNuuQ9QlgmdRg-2zMnsHkdnkQdthuk7uogpZEpQFTGeJA49y-nsoLctFrUt0DekuAnr-hJzDpFCoSRm5nUaF_h1nMR2-kUpC1o/s1600/6898.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivWKFPPnQYNJaICg2AcoJEgNlcJ9S21XBSUzwHmzChLVNuuQ9QlgmdRg-2zMnsHkdnkQdthuk7uogpZEpQFTGeJA49y-nsoLctFrUt0DekuAnr-hJzDpFCoSRm5nUaF_h1nMR2-kUpC1o/s1600/6898.jpg" height="200" width="154" /></a>This is step 9 of a 20-step tutorial for construction of McCall's shirt pattern 6898. See Blog Archive for other steps in the tutorial.<b> </b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Step 9 Collar</b><br />
Pin interfaced collar to non-interfaced collar, right sides together. Non-interfaced collar edges should extend beyond interfaced collar almost 1/8".<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMyGlHpMUqTPB1LaPrmlcUwarzghfQtmhyphenhyphen1nqJ3WEkrwT0qRPXE0umja8viWG8Nnc-uy8A4JJ7S20odjS8DD3uvJYrzBxwoPfvIBc9zAewsXbhmGaLueP05LWLA4jhLr2_Qd5n8zB1ed4/s1600/Blue+62.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMyGlHpMUqTPB1LaPrmlcUwarzghfQtmhyphenhyphen1nqJ3WEkrwT0qRPXE0umja8viWG8Nnc-uy8A4JJ7S20odjS8DD3uvJYrzBxwoPfvIBc9zAewsXbhmGaLueP05LWLA4jhLr2_Qd5n8zB1ed4/s1600/Blue+62.jpg" height="148" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pin two collars together</span></td></tr>
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Below is a photo of the non-interfaced collar edges extending 1/8".<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtnIhcMygQbjhSUA4N1LssPo3VsFzJmi2vqIYG2uwayE2QngIdD3OykZ6I596SYl1Zh6Q8GyXmmffUUEVJxN2-8UngdKy-w4c7N_oZffOF_HNY7TOFe6gvFNNQ6qTqDtdT_tOVcF8dh18/s1600/Blue+63.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtnIhcMygQbjhSUA4N1LssPo3VsFzJmi2vqIYG2uwayE2QngIdD3OykZ6I596SYl1Zh6Q8GyXmmffUUEVJxN2-8UngdKy-w4c7N_oZffOF_HNY7TOFe6gvFNNQ6qTqDtdT_tOVcF8dh18/s1600/Blue+63.jpg" height="400" width="301" /></a></div>
Stitch 5/8" from all edges, stitching off at corners.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs67twX_IIJsTt6yzvWUSGFj1xagBqWEHURhAJ6XHqTB1S4X1MmFVwAbuN8MgKTTxEpqZu3uEkoU0z2WjRbpSrL8I67d7hrjWT8q0tNjf84AfuRRM-xqPV1h1YeNZjKFd-Ym0_kuvdcTM/s1600/Blue+64.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs67twX_IIJsTt6yzvWUSGFj1xagBqWEHURhAJ6XHqTB1S4X1MmFVwAbuN8MgKTTxEpqZu3uEkoU0z2WjRbpSrL8I67d7hrjWT8q0tNjf84AfuRRM-xqPV1h1YeNZjKFd-Ym0_kuvdcTM/s1600/Blue+64.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Reinforce corner stitching by shortening stitch length to 2.0mm and stitching 1" to and 1" from collar points.<br />
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Needle should be down into the fabric when you lift the presser foot to turn the corner.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqI_92zi4J8JR4V9f-LIiN2hghZWmRp9oly9q-hQVAVvuf5eJi0lboIGdv9uCSPA8LJvsgc00VDEQ8fPDXdburU_fXAfLShIm1JBqsj-QAKFJGUvKkA1uzqVbMXTXlH_1mPjUkJT7K7DE/s1600/Blue+66.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqI_92zi4J8JR4V9f-LIiN2hghZWmRp9oly9q-hQVAVvuf5eJi0lboIGdv9uCSPA8LJvsgc00VDEQ8fPDXdburU_fXAfLShIm1JBqsj-QAKFJGUvKkA1uzqVbMXTXlH_1mPjUkJT7K7DE/s1600/Blue+66.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Turn at collar point to stitch 1" further.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpNJJgLEoXvVE-ldnq1oB00ysLAOq2wryW_rUfkPZz4BdK0svaNM-5oSaPqIsBIY34Q7QIVu3uBEXGcsDCEeyt5nS4Xb2VGG4w7krj3nAxPP5L4JEbTVd35yQIUpm5BXOUO-9AsB14I_A/s1600/Blue+67.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpNJJgLEoXvVE-ldnq1oB00ysLAOq2wryW_rUfkPZz4BdK0svaNM-5oSaPqIsBIY34Q7QIVu3uBEXGcsDCEeyt5nS4Xb2VGG4w7krj3nAxPP5L4JEbTVd35yQIUpm5BXOUO-9AsB14I_A/s1600/Blue+67.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Understitch seam allowances to non-interfaced collar as close to the corners as possible.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikhr4VE80RpRci3hDohNqHSTvvk0gBpAzPHYGG42ubbx6mmrIMi_oI7Nrdl9N4ATQP7hJSCvCE5lzOEv8-8R1cBRJl7XD4wpQXvzsAL1Xm_Ll5btmonb0Z-pFZtfWyii4J8r5ar3GC2H8/s1600/Blue+68.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikhr4VE80RpRci3hDohNqHSTvvk0gBpAzPHYGG42ubbx6mmrIMi_oI7Nrdl9N4ATQP7hJSCvCE5lzOEv8-8R1cBRJl7XD4wpQXvzsAL1Xm_Ll5btmonb0Z-pFZtfWyii4J8r5ar3GC2H8/s1600/Blue+68.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
View of under stitching:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7zYyMIT9hm-EK8uiaf0-icmJUsjGyCHXa39uWY84makAPl8Q-P6BdSYvcJ7RwLhavzzSIUoUhtS-6ZTvntbmbpDa0PAEspSydPA4D670VUb_fA7ICsgOHbqXHIVLaj4tFaENgiUj7DcE/s1600/Blue+69.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7zYyMIT9hm-EK8uiaf0-icmJUsjGyCHXa39uWY84makAPl8Q-P6BdSYvcJ7RwLhavzzSIUoUhtS-6ZTvntbmbpDa0PAEspSydPA4D670VUb_fA7ICsgOHbqXHIVLaj4tFaENgiUj7DcE/s1600/Blue+69.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Trim seam allowances as indicated:<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqcbfYhm0C6UWjB0DHqyIF9nuqQjJKoqyNzKHbLHqpz0ah-UOsPamfMlQjOTtIcoz0su2IQ6F0G-XcGkWIwE0lG60iE1QqPr66yczgVutnPbwpqANF6bw86g1MIOGcio0l9HyBN1b3PJM/s1600/Blue+70.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqcbfYhm0C6UWjB0DHqyIF9nuqQjJKoqyNzKHbLHqpz0ah-UOsPamfMlQjOTtIcoz0su2IQ6F0G-XcGkWIwE0lG60iE1QqPr66yczgVutnPbwpqANF6bw86g1MIOGcio0l9HyBN1b3PJM/s1600/Blue+70.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Turn collar unit right side out. Use point turner at corners. Press.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQEd9Oa8ltQ2M-UGjCWRDdRPsteVfiMX1RWq_H-eIvKXIzNetn3QoJChmYinvIExgUVl7kPl04wx24NuiwV6gZNsj4XtbmXnVvk7tPr7D4gpHmZgLIvSzU-dnrfdwZiak8p9goQ_HJdlk/s1600/Blue+71.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQEd9Oa8ltQ2M-UGjCWRDdRPsteVfiMX1RWq_H-eIvKXIzNetn3QoJChmYinvIExgUVl7kPl04wx24NuiwV6gZNsj4XtbmXnVvk7tPr7D4gpHmZgLIvSzU-dnrfdwZiak8p9goQ_HJdlk/s1600/Blue+71.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Pin neck edges together rolling collar as you pin; this builds roll into the collar unit. Machine baste collar unit neck edges together at 1/2" stitching line.<br />
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<b>Step 10</b><br />
Make a copy of the neckband pattern piece and mark the 5/8" stitching line with a pen and ruler.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit9D0EJf-bkem7_BM-1Pp-DiEAznjaVwV3DwK3c18DBRETwQbijQi_OZVnfxLTK2wV8IQfV5C2flaoQL4G_k-Lpo5mNSYIRBav6X7BhllSMaEMNzAdY1yaCuMRuTENmBraaochYqiPCbc/s1600/Blue+74.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit9D0EJf-bkem7_BM-1Pp-DiEAznjaVwV3DwK3c18DBRETwQbijQi_OZVnfxLTK2wV8IQfV5C2flaoQL4G_k-Lpo5mNSYIRBav6X7BhllSMaEMNzAdY1yaCuMRuTENmBraaochYqiPCbc/s1600/Blue+74.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Cut out copy along marked stitching line. This is a template.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOibDRmCIllJTEcS2UqXR0GExuNyFnKPPkhMAZ_YUafiRXS4KyI_v3iQU4npWAX6TLmrE0SagJ6BoocbroVUxBszceAuBztlaQAsbURtZLMhIxea5FZq5Ru9Qqb3aHCWHUdRNeVwFjETQ/s1600/Blue+75.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOibDRmCIllJTEcS2UqXR0GExuNyFnKPPkhMAZ_YUafiRXS4KyI_v3iQU4npWAX6TLmrE0SagJ6BoocbroVUxBszceAuBztlaQAsbURtZLMhIxea5FZq5Ru9Qqb3aHCWHUdRNeVwFjETQ/s1600/Blue+75.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Lay copy on interfaced neckband. Hand baste along template stitching line.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglzvCscRRmEHRPXU0qxBpBWstp1jQyBoyhgWyjBILMOXQd3kJsJFUZTNavRZPunALc_HPZToRvM8WTQW8pFVUk55zM8lETo0hPtMvGMn62JfyoSZrMfoMHThsixwOD2ZpIsaqaHSZZSk0/s1600/Blue+76.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglzvCscRRmEHRPXU0qxBpBWstp1jQyBoyhgWyjBILMOXQd3kJsJFUZTNavRZPunALc_HPZToRvM8WTQW8pFVUk55zM8lETo0hPtMvGMn62JfyoSZrMfoMHThsixwOD2ZpIsaqaHSZZSk0/s1600/Blue+76.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Half the neckband is marked.<br />
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Lay template on other side of neckband and baste along template stitching line.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_xnCba7Rw_R5e4DXlCAIbacKjcP1qPEpB3WDBG8XnL-YkN6gvNmlXut1y-WHAu3k_mmyAdAV7KXfYUGR2VXlB1pDq6UjRgVGr4l_TGM-EJhTHdLcrLqimuai9z4B9Fr5l4R0gMvVCwzg/s1600/Blue+78.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_xnCba7Rw_R5e4DXlCAIbacKjcP1qPEpB3WDBG8XnL-YkN6gvNmlXut1y-WHAu3k_mmyAdAV7KXfYUGR2VXlB1pDq6UjRgVGr4l_TGM-EJhTHdLcrLqimuai9z4B9Fr5l4R0gMvVCwzg/s1600/Blue+78.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Below is the neckband which has been marked with the template. If you stitch in subsequent steps exactly on the hand basting, you will have a high-quality, symmetrical neckband framing the face.<br />
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The hand basting is visible on both sides of the neckband.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3vyqidpBsNW6p-D_TE3vDkhvHBlCo1UmLWAeDKr0QVAfVJPZ1NPgSNVEB7LuElwbQgLHuYrY5nC_cixo2ocZ51XGaYeFiREG6-Gf-0SBCNqqj6vmdDwuSh6zf7uTunzzSqOEyIGvy93s/s1600/Blue+80.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3vyqidpBsNW6p-D_TE3vDkhvHBlCo1UmLWAeDKr0QVAfVJPZ1NPgSNVEB7LuElwbQgLHuYrY5nC_cixo2ocZ51XGaYeFiREG6-Gf-0SBCNqqj6vmdDwuSh6zf7uTunzzSqOEyIGvy93s/s1600/Blue+80.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Lay collar on interfaced neckband, matching notches. The interfaced side of the collar is facing up.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjBhXWMkJBI7F2yjnsktFYs-VpHQDBec00Xox87JNBkvd5-McrpAedZqmumwz9N6WSieSotD77Fapjm5RURDw2PLv96nspBGLJ12pFC9Ms25PHS0aKwxc0By7F4_ifHXRU_bJXW1E1uAA/s1600/Blue+81.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjBhXWMkJBI7F2yjnsktFYs-VpHQDBec00Xox87JNBkvd5-McrpAedZqmumwz9N6WSieSotD77Fapjm5RURDw2PLv96nspBGLJ12pFC9Ms25PHS0aKwxc0By7F4_ifHXRU_bJXW1E1uAA/s1600/Blue+81.JPG" height="152" width="400" /></a></div>
Lay neckband facing on top of collar and interfaced neckband. Pin edges together. Fold up 5/8" seam allowances on neckband facing as shown. <br />
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Close-up.<br />
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Stitch along hand basting line. Trim seam allowances. <br />
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Turn neckband right side out and press on seam along collar on both sides.<br />
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<b>Step 11 Join Collar/Neckband unit to shirt</b><br />
Lay right side of interfaced neckband to right side of shirt matching at center back. Pin curves in place. Neckband should extend 1/16" past garment neck edge at front to allow for turn of cloth.<b> </b><br />
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<b> </b>Stitch neckband seam back tacking at start and finish. The garment neck edge is curved more than the neckband so it is easy to stitch puckers into the garment neckline. Note my pucker below needs to be ripped out and re-stitched.<b> </b><br />
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<b> </b>Press seam allowances up into neckband.<br />
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<b> </b>Trim garment seam allowance to 1/4".<b> </b><br />
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<b> </b>Clip neckband where needed to achieve a smooth neckline.<b> </b><br />
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<b> </b>Fold non-interfaced neckband down over seam you just trimmed. Pin in place, just covering seam with non-interfaced neckband.<br />
You have two options for stitching the neckband facing in place depending upon how well the facing folds down over the seam. If the facing folds down and covers the seam in all places including the front edges, stitch in the ditch through all layers.<br />
If the facing does not cover the seam at the front edges in particular, stitch through all layers 1/8" above the seam which is on the neckband.<br />
In my sample garment, I was able to stitch in the ditch. Note the pins are on the inside of the neckband and I am stitching in the ditch on the outside of the garment.<br />
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I pull the pins out before I stitch over the area they are holding.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">View from inside of garment</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">View from outside of garment</span></td></tr>
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Press neckband and collar over seam roll.Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-38093987077392928272015-03-20T14:34:00.005-05:002015-03-20T14:34:56.857-05:00Steps 7 & 8 - McCall's 6898Step 7 Hem<br />
Press up 5/8" along bottom of garment. My garment hem is straight. If your hem is curved, begin the pressing at the side seams where the curve needs extra pressing attention.<br />
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By the way, note the interesting shape of this iron. It is cordless and has a pointed shape at both the front and back.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk7VoJa-VQki5WWg3qfHRIPZRogJM4JfoyhF3Rt3EHAsCdW-7UpmfjcXLFhI1g_Gz5H3KSTcrmryDu9jKXYD4MVlPXHLTGlPIddEcsg7nRlExDj3TFeamp45hFWysog5oeFIf-EwM4qjo/s1600/Blue+38.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk7VoJa-VQki5WWg3qfHRIPZRogJM4JfoyhF3Rt3EHAsCdW-7UpmfjcXLFhI1g_Gz5H3KSTcrmryDu9jKXYD4MVlPXHLTGlPIddEcsg7nRlExDj3TFeamp45hFWysog5oeFIf-EwM4qjo/s1600/Blue+38.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Front</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Back</span></td></tr>
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Fold pressed edge in half and pin in place.<br />
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Stitch hem along upper fold. I stitch on the inside of the garment which means the bobbin thread shows on the outside of the garment. It would be better to have the spool thread on the outside of the garment, but I find stitching the hem from the right side to not be worth the trouble.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Note use of a "hump jumper" at the bulky seam intersections. This tool costs a couple dollars. Alternatively, use a rolled scrap of fabric to make your own jumper.</span></td></tr>
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Press hem in place.<br />
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Step 8 Front Bands<br />
Press 5/8" to inside on unnotched long edge of each Front Band.<br />
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Trim 1/4" from pressed edge.<br />
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Pin Front Band to garment front, matching notch near top of panels. Note how Front Band extends past bottom of hemmed garment.<br />
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Stitch 5/8" from raw edges.<br />
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Press seam allowances toward band.<br />
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Grade seam allowance of garment only.<br />
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Fold band at hem, right sides together. Pressed, folded edge should pass joining seam by 1/8" to facilitate accurate stitching in the ditch. This is the view from the right side of the garment.<br />
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This is the view from the inside of the garment. <br />
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Stitch across band in line with finished hem, back-tacking at start and end of seam.<br />
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Trim seam allowance to 1/4".<br />
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Fold down corner of hem allowance with your hand while turning band right side out. Use point turned to improve Front Band hem. Only trim folded corner if you cannot make the corner attractive without trimming.<br />
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The Front Band turned right side out. Press only the hem of the Front Band; the fold will be pressed after additional stitching.<br />
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Pin band over band joining seam. Band should extend 1/8" past joining seam, similar to the waistband facing final seam in Step 6.<br />
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Stitch in ditch of band/garment front seam. Stitch from neck down to hem.<br />
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Here is the Front Band viewed from the inside of the garment. The thread tails of the bottom could be placed on a hand sewing needle and buried in the bottom of the band to avoid small thread stubs appearing at the hem of the Front Band. <br />
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This is the view of the Front Band from the outside of the garment. Again, the thread tails at the hem could be manually knotted and buried with a hand sewing needle.<br />
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Be sure to stitch Front Bands to both the right and left sides of the garment.<br />
The garment body is now complete. Sleeve and Collar work remain. We will do sleeve work before collar work to minimize handling of the finished neckline, however it is not an error to set the collar prior to the sleeve.<br />
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Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-32473803178586824152015-03-20T14:34:00.004-05:002015-03-20T14:34:50.566-05:00Steps 5 & 6 - McCall's 6898Step 5 Waistband<br />
Pin interfaced waistband to blouse, right sides together.<br />
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Pin right side of waistband facing to inside of blouse. There is now a waistband on the outside of the garment as well as the inside.<br />
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Stitch through all three layers 5/8" from the raw edges. Press all seam allowances down to the waistband.<br />
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Grade seam allowances. The seam allowance with interfacing is closest to the outside of the garment so do not trim it. Trim 1/8" from the middle seam allowance and trim 1/4" from the innermost seam allowance which is the waistband facing.<br />
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Stitch side seams to connect Lower Fronts to Lower Back using French seams. <br />
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View of side seam.<br />
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View of garment front. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLybgjxlNhyyxKH0d1Ezlm5o1Sj8GwqruyBn-t_iaPYbQedEK-P-MEePxCmZHYJ4-o8lyHL0PqE74_p_Vx74jSJxrCCQg1CuuBtzcN7Rq1VHdN-658pOUjycKLbrT8IMzdMS_jCfrWpv8/s1600/Blue+21.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLybgjxlNhyyxKH0d1Ezlm5o1Sj8GwqruyBn-t_iaPYbQedEK-P-MEePxCmZHYJ4-o8lyHL0PqE74_p_Vx74jSJxrCCQg1CuuBtzcN7Rq1VHdN-658pOUjycKLbrT8IMzdMS_jCfrWpv8/s1600/Blue+21.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Note in the above photos there are two rows of basting stitches along the waist in four places. One row is 1/2" from the raw edge, and one row is 1/4" from the raw edge. Do not back tack to secure these rows of basting and leave the thread tails for pulling.<br />
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From the wrong side, pull on the two thread tails until loops appear.<br />
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Place a pin in the loops to pull the two threads from the right side to the inside.<br />
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Four threads at each end of the basting.<br />
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Pull on the two rear thread tails to gather the fabric.<br />
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Arrange gathers evenly and pin in place.<br />
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Stitch seam that connects lower garment to waistband with 5/8" seam allowance. Press seam up to waistband without smashing gathers.<br />
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Here is a photo of the inside of the garment at this point in construction.<br />
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Back view from inside the garment. Note the waistband facing is up only to show you the waist seams.<br />
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Tie off/knot the basting threads and clip close to knot.<br />
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Lay the waistband facing in place. Fold the raw edge so the seam is covered. The fold should extend 1/8" below the waist seam. Pin waistband facing in place.<br />
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From right side of garment, stitch in ditch to attach waistband facing to garment and close waistband. You could top stitch the two long edges of the waistband if you wish.<br />
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Press waistband on both inside and outside of garment. Inside of garment waistband looks like this:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvObc0tuQfsIsq8wu1bQp-QSfyKTvran0ETAVJveP0Dws9K-niheBkOhom01UEK-3ty8eh1cbA2rtrSV8Ptji832Ua1DL4ceHUSUoVMhgfGnwyvXboBG4p3pMe5xiNhc3mN3L-nrwKTDk/s1600/Blue+34.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvObc0tuQfsIsq8wu1bQp-QSfyKTvran0ETAVJveP0Dws9K-niheBkOhom01UEK-3ty8eh1cbA2rtrSV8Ptji832Ua1DL4ceHUSUoVMhgfGnwyvXboBG4p3pMe5xiNhc3mN3L-nrwKTDk/s1600/Blue+34.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Note the alignment of the side seam; the side seam above aligns with the side seam below the waistband.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Outside of garment waistband looks like this:<br />
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The shirt is progressing nicely. Here is the back view.<br />
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Front view.<br />
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Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-27029449589081928022015-03-20T14:34:00.003-05:002015-03-20T14:34:41.989-05:00Steps 3 & 4: McCall's 6898Step 3 Shoulder Seams<br />
Stitch shoulders in a French seam. Be careful to match the front princess seams to the back princess seams. Pin wrong sides together.<br />
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Below is a closeup of the two princess seams matched.<br />
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Press French seam allowance to back.<br />
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Note the precise matching of princess seams at the shoulder seam.<br />
Step 4 Side Seams<br />
Stitch French side seams. Press to back.<br />
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Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-29922984755639790352015-03-19T21:30:00.000-05:002015-03-19T21:30:22.485-05:00Steps 1 & 2: McCall's 6898My clothing construction class at College of DuPage is sewing a traditional button-down shirt with collar, long sleeves, and cuffs. Posts discussing the 20 construction steps will appear on this blog over the next few weeks. This is the design we are sewing:<br />
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Step 1: Shirt Front Princess Seams<br />
Garment will be sewn with French seams. How to sew a French seam will only be explained during steps 1 & 2.<br />
Lay Bodice Front and Bodice Side Front, wrong sides together, along princess seam. Stitch 3/8" from raw edges with a 2.5mm stitch length.<br />
Press seam flat on one side.<br />
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Press seam flat from other side also.<br />
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Press both seam allowances to center front, using a ham.<br />
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Trim 3/8" seam allowance down to less than 1/4".<br />
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Fold and pin along trimmed seam to encase raw edges.<br />
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Stitch 1/4" from folded seam/edge.<br />
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Press seam flat on one side, then the other side, and finally to the center front. Below you see a ham in use; the fullest part of the bust is along the narrow curve of the ham.<br />
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Here is the front princess seam:<br />
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Step 2: Shirt Back Princess Seams<br />
Stitch Back princess seams using French seams as described above. Below is a view from the inside of the Back.<br />
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<br />Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-76017783164645199022015-03-09T11:30:00.001-05:002015-03-19T20:37:45.341-05:00Watch the Neck Size on Your PatternsMy clothing construction class is starting a button-down collared shirt project. I am emphasizing to students the importance of a collar and neckband that fit well and therefore frame the face attractively. Below is a photo of good collar fit. Even if you do not plan to wear the shirt with the top button closed, the neck should still fit this way.<br />
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Below is the pattern I plan to use. What do you think of the collar fit on the model? It is not flattering at all. In addition to the looseness around the neck, the collar itself is large. Compare the pattern collar width to the above photo and note the size differential.<br />
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To begin pattern alterations, I measure the neck of a shirt I like. You can measure two ways so choose the method that is easier and more accurate. For method 1, the shirt is placed on the form, the neck is buttoned, and a tape measure is wrapped around the neck edge. I obtain a neck measurement of 15.5".<br />
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Below is method 2. Lay the shirt flat and measure from center front to center front. Again the measurement is 15.5".<br />
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Next I measure the collar itself. The collar measures 2" from finished edge to neckband seam.<br />
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Now to correct my pattern tissue. Lay the front (piece #2) and back (piece #7) patterns on the table.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhey9ad-F9CbxVh8_G4Ap-ThZ20zOfNuRg4jCRwdHm661ed3dbonbiNJw7LuTyESJGZEbEwHoPc5o84WFK2-wrZT5N69jGa6fnl2kZJvO44igJUHC1U_L3YrRzH4yjm92qrIFalFt569us/s1600/Shirt+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhey9ad-F9CbxVh8_G4Ap-ThZ20zOfNuRg4jCRwdHm661ed3dbonbiNJw7LuTyESJGZEbEwHoPc5o84WFK2-wrZT5N69jGa6fnl2kZJvO44igJUHC1U_L3YrRzH4yjm92qrIFalFt569us/s1600/Shirt+1.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Bodice Front is on left side, Bodice Back is on right side of photo</span></td></tr>
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I am cutting a size 14 blouse but I will place a size 8 neck onto the blouse.<br />
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Lay tracing paper on top of the pattern tissue. Trace the size 8 cutting lines onto the tracing paper. Note that size 14 is the largest size on this particular pattern tissue.<br />
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Lay the traced size 8 neckline on the size 14 cutting lines, aligning the shoulder seam and the neck edge. The change is subtle: the center front neckline rises 3/8" and blends to nothing at the neck/shoulder edge. There is no change to the shoulder seam nor the armhole. <br />
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Repeat the step for the back neck.<br />
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To reduce the size of the collar, make a photocopy of the collar pattern piece. Below you see a red pen line 3/4" above the outside edge of the collar. This will be the new cutting line for the collar. My collar now is 2" wide with a 5/8" seam allowance at the neck edge, and a 5/8" seam allowance along the outside edges.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOvt7-3u70DlXXpOPsg4hkf15Tua_XH9mChqhcev6-b4QU-QpV9JjyL8q8n6ABmrToxUn-TPoe334OKm-cHZEbqcvuVzVwy5xxs2_x1VjgKnYdf48Ao7NrCbyIWDQHiZHTUf2ZN6Y4X9Q/s1600/Shirt+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOvt7-3u70DlXXpOPsg4hkf15Tua_XH9mChqhcev6-b4QU-QpV9JjyL8q8n6ABmrToxUn-TPoe334OKm-cHZEbqcvuVzVwy5xxs2_x1VjgKnYdf48Ao7NrCbyIWDQHiZHTUf2ZN6Y4X9Q/s1600/Shirt+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
If your neck is large, you can place a larger size collar on your garment as well. <br />
<br />
If your pattern tissue does not have the size you need marked on it, try to "grade" the pattern yourself. This is a relatively simple exercise in grading a pattern, so give it a try. If you work off of a photocopy rather than the original pattern tissue, you can redo until you have it right.Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-37853163450449636312015-02-23T16:27:00.001-06:002015-06-08T13:23:20.412-05:00Simplicity 1277 Garment Construction, Part Three of Three<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyraDcW8iVGalYFKWULKbE6vdpEXp78yq9LfdFvFgOKZejWxgssrIlgoC1UprqInOXKFhcK_t3u7AQO3GVTCFwUOLGkuiQQOLj_h8oAR4hQyzCJ6fPhnikbIiwc-YFkT9nKsLJpqiiZwU/s1600/Denim+Dress+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyraDcW8iVGalYFKWULKbE6vdpEXp78yq9LfdFvFgOKZejWxgssrIlgoC1UprqInOXKFhcK_t3u7AQO3GVTCFwUOLGkuiQQOLj_h8oAR4hQyzCJ6fPhnikbIiwc-YFkT9nKsLJpqiiZwU/s320/Denim+Dress+3.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Step 9 Neck (cont'd) and Armhole Edges</b></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiud3v87FudOXmxfespjMeABxUCr9dQbd3hkZQ1IiR_AYGTO2acfw3vhaS3y_WEsfsBYFWKqz5UWB78wZnZxA865DmuSky1O9tH9tceLh6byZ7VkK0sBNTZb_BXN5QdSgKagPAJaCuAcd4/s1600/F+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiud3v87FudOXmxfespjMeABxUCr9dQbd3hkZQ1IiR_AYGTO2acfw3vhaS3y_WEsfsBYFWKqz5UWB78wZnZxA865DmuSky1O9tH9tceLh6byZ7VkK0sBNTZb_BXN5QdSgKagPAJaCuAcd4/s1600/F+1.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Press clipped seam allowances to facing</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjftd_zcSrkFVc235Ms32jGzGkhs_7LAkWSy2w7Mfj9Z11YifHkgbYenFduz1ZuSfn83n_F3KZBptyRaJNgs1MvDtXM5qk4eb-YeDEcNQrHNAnUmPCXX6JmVkqVJJjH8e5DtAN3lSzJ2Z0/s1600/F+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjftd_zcSrkFVc235Ms32jGzGkhs_7LAkWSy2w7Mfj9Z11YifHkgbYenFduz1ZuSfn83n_F3KZBptyRaJNgs1MvDtXM5qk4eb-YeDEcNQrHNAnUmPCXX6JmVkqVJJjH8e5DtAN3lSzJ2Z0/s1600/F+2.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Under stitch seam allowances to facing side</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeRqGgbzcI8fzmI4KDx-9NUs6kRAcienKTXO-EoyTNKQttl3pAztaZR-9JhOKHqoevalT6C3YSJEqKjilJJVhn70os5z1PeLj0diH_v50aWMoyZ55r8Q0t_bg8KMwDN1u-jiUbvCPVdHI/s1600/F+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeRqGgbzcI8fzmI4KDx-9NUs6kRAcienKTXO-EoyTNKQttl3pAztaZR-9JhOKHqoevalT6C3YSJEqKjilJJVhn70os5z1PeLj0diH_v50aWMoyZ55r8Q0t_bg8KMwDN1u-jiUbvCPVdHI/s1600/F+3.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">When under stitching, be sure clipped seam allowances stay under facing rather than garment</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDUow8pBxpxN4-tysQDGUacmE1ktC7Oo47yXzFzFfJbqAXst6Z1JanQS7m2-BlFkwDoh33xHg7WtrlwspSWrHBpriHrgNiKpv5B36RWAGmrZ8RA09LAykrsWIc8cjEF-yBh8cwlkhW-_A/s1600/F+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDUow8pBxpxN4-tysQDGUacmE1ktC7Oo47yXzFzFfJbqAXst6Z1JanQS7m2-BlFkwDoh33xHg7WtrlwspSWrHBpriHrgNiKpv5B36RWAGmrZ8RA09LAykrsWIc8cjEF-yBh8cwlkhW-_A/s1600/F+4.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Trim seam allowances to between 1/4" and 3/8"</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM_FUG-pk4MYWT9fFG3cHb-mktF8Aymyf4-uugXfDGhklnl9L7G2aUfOT8iN5zilAcpOm7havDEDXU6ewanmS-vMCTMp61j0b01IunJEGTJNUaCg-TtDKN78AfHiPK28DbT_j3bS3eoa4/s1600/F+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM_FUG-pk4MYWT9fFG3cHb-mktF8Aymyf4-uugXfDGhklnl9L7G2aUfOT8iN5zilAcpOm7havDEDXU6ewanmS-vMCTMp61j0b01IunJEGTJNUaCg-TtDKN78AfHiPK28DbT_j3bS3eoa4/s1600/F+5.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Press neckline edges in place; seam will roll to inside of garment</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX3vpM-Xd1VJlvqQCzjzCTwYDh8TD5BVVQ37N3kXr7dM5Q4rkJhrVgsvQwbsAcfOwDeyz4utnvAQ7vv5-N5sVrR7wWS0TAtlb14T94sRilIKMSX55K4kKnzbysEQeTKn8ornXhT4K9MPc/s1600/F+6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX3vpM-Xd1VJlvqQCzjzCTwYDh8TD5BVVQ37N3kXr7dM5Q4rkJhrVgsvQwbsAcfOwDeyz4utnvAQ7vv5-N5sVrR7wWS0TAtlb14T94sRilIKMSX55K4kKnzbysEQeTKn8ornXhT4K9MPc/s1600/F+6.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pin armhole of garment and facing, right sides together, with facing extending 1/4" beyond garment at shoulder seam</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8vdQCkx44srlhUF2wOksPbz5kRU_RwPK1gqEZXTVP7XERoSD8soM8uhqtwvbfNihwakXF7-Qt9qXd2WHI0CUCXDlQZsKdQN2ZRazoZqSkEjob1LiFwOhJp2_a0bXfAnb5JJ5ZIjyjs2g/s1600/F+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8vdQCkx44srlhUF2wOksPbz5kRU_RwPK1gqEZXTVP7XERoSD8soM8uhqtwvbfNihwakXF7-Qt9qXd2WHI0CUCXDlQZsKdQN2ZRazoZqSkEjob1LiFwOhJp2_a0bXfAnb5JJ5ZIjyjs2g/s1600/F+7.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Close-up of facing extension</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTBtuezYF9TjQMdmkFFukriN-g6IMOOP6-JJ20GpE0-rQl_-s6GJcluAr9cMNqu9BkbRvvp2AbED40t3AdKCK4TAnmZ3PiTyX79GKj4SEVqlKp90DDt2TZ5ZV7x78A7usWxMRpa1Fs68Y/s1600/F+8.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTBtuezYF9TjQMdmkFFukriN-g6IMOOP6-JJ20GpE0-rQl_-s6GJcluAr9cMNqu9BkbRvvp2AbED40t3AdKCK4TAnmZ3PiTyX79GKj4SEVqlKp90DDt2TZ5ZV7x78A7usWxMRpa1Fs68Y/s1600/F+8.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Stitch armhole 5/8" from garment cut edge (not facing edge)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYkunkA2rp54jowKi_lbmpoRsebmT0m17IrXEQ7uC_qflB5eSvGBls3X5_N8NadxT6Hp9j4Xo1IhU_bdkjp9zrnQJPxJoScz-7X8vTp7AqdU_miGHJEWJZduxpBdrm8FCPVN_dZdYxGFU/s1600/F+9.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYkunkA2rp54jowKi_lbmpoRsebmT0m17IrXEQ7uC_qflB5eSvGBls3X5_N8NadxT6Hp9j4Xo1IhU_bdkjp9zrnQJPxJoScz-7X8vTp7AqdU_miGHJEWJZduxpBdrm8FCPVN_dZdYxGFU/s1600/F+9.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Stitched armhole</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiS5k1ms-Bk1KujQl6GMRNBWdYWatto-UB39RKZGnioXXWCBokS-D2Exh5vhsCdyI0M3wD8Ly6s8LCXgctupNd0nbIObtV94lNHkuzFhTqiqIOzv8La2zk-k0sqccaNys2jrjpX7rCz24/s1600/F+10.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiS5k1ms-Bk1KujQl6GMRNBWdYWatto-UB39RKZGnioXXWCBokS-D2Exh5vhsCdyI0M3wD8Ly6s8LCXgctupNd0nbIObtV94lNHkuzFhTqiqIOzv8La2zk-k0sqccaNys2jrjpX7rCz24/s1600/F+10.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Press seam allowances of armhole flat</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0hi6VW-tIIkm2HFLu9am_mIjOKTYUPcYxBlDI5C-7jHljkzb6e0uUp16kOZzkjsbmgMrp5fSELDTRbDy1WMEv81hDheW6lWkojUgWV_Y1zYZj1Bjt4wTYKaS8b9oi1R6wKAkr5RzrzC4/s1600/F+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0hi6VW-tIIkm2HFLu9am_mIjOKTYUPcYxBlDI5C-7jHljkzb6e0uUp16kOZzkjsbmgMrp5fSELDTRbDy1WMEv81hDheW6lWkojUgWV_Y1zYZj1Bjt4wTYKaS8b9oi1R6wKAkr5RzrzC4/s1600/F+11.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Shoulder seam allowance was caught incorrectly in seam; rip and redo this area</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsoFapcJRZLd1Mdnbn9DttpZ-tRCfEk29_px2QSR6IchfSxLpx4uPkKoUhEh1J-W3EWVx5jT6o78RpXAW0iqlgBGLCV7jTqoFfy-MpVSy-4nnFwlZIG3HZutQNGO0ao6J8WAPyZtm7wRY/s1600/F+12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsoFapcJRZLd1Mdnbn9DttpZ-tRCfEk29_px2QSR6IchfSxLpx4uPkKoUhEh1J-W3EWVx5jT6o78RpXAW0iqlgBGLCV7jTqoFfy-MpVSy-4nnFwlZIG3HZutQNGO0ao6J8WAPyZtm7wRY/s1600/F+12.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Press lower portion of armhole open on ham</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikIbz23spYVrXQAhuHkrpcgUF-rzLLE8-alUmJyMEwIjFDddZbr3AMh34Dc3aTGo2eOgYkHZyJowzTmioOpvLqfQo3AwsRwqn_n_rA0hTQCP90FLG6X70XqoQJS0pqZ8f04swKevPo9o0/s1600/F13.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikIbz23spYVrXQAhuHkrpcgUF-rzLLE8-alUmJyMEwIjFDddZbr3AMh34Dc3aTGo2eOgYkHZyJowzTmioOpvLqfQo3AwsRwqn_n_rA0hTQCP90FLG6X70XqoQJS0pqZ8f04swKevPo9o0/s1600/F13.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Press armhole near shoulder seam open on ironing board or seam stick</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4dtWWiPD_BHv-kvtELulWg2yAmqTnn7Jh86TSKS22Rnrk5JsQEIWw9Xhhn-1k_UJQKX03QJlOu275B0550dGC-yEDtpcpb7W8L4sosHq3b8WHG-sWGYUaI40zgypSb7ln01Tn0tw8AYU/s1600/F14.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4dtWWiPD_BHv-kvtELulWg2yAmqTnn7Jh86TSKS22Rnrk5JsQEIWw9Xhhn-1k_UJQKX03QJlOu275B0550dGC-yEDtpcpb7W8L4sosHq3b8WHG-sWGYUaI40zgypSb7ln01Tn0tw8AYU/s1600/F14.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pressed armhole seam allowances</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxduOkM1cAISLL3ChNLLChUgdauj2CsqFppGS4YrEEFz8_UpJ7p9sMFIkNwtiNXh14jSoPP9hH7L2dkGoZ69s-u6RY1hvDV5IrBtTdYfXNJDdBOKq6lySXL5SNTPBiE_qNGHo-8MFHjyU/s1600/F15.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxduOkM1cAISLL3ChNLLChUgdauj2CsqFppGS4YrEEFz8_UpJ7p9sMFIkNwtiNXh14jSoPP9hH7L2dkGoZ69s-u6RY1hvDV5IrBtTdYfXNJDdBOKq6lySXL5SNTPBiE_qNGHo-8MFHjyU/s1600/F15.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Clip armhole seam allowances</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB9fidft0jpTZPHCHZNdoGOkdvD-OgVzmPQK4ugpNe0vcbhyndpk4HKdAaJahOFy5hpCapBjhV_cCZQmCAaDh_DhnGPRwQpcTbCjtwTJZt4XmzK6OWEX5wZ7MC-d4SZABjCTm_gX_PEpU/s1600/F16.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB9fidft0jpTZPHCHZNdoGOkdvD-OgVzmPQK4ugpNe0vcbhyndpk4HKdAaJahOFy5hpCapBjhV_cCZQmCAaDh_DhnGPRwQpcTbCjtwTJZt4XmzK6OWEX5wZ7MC-d4SZABjCTm_gX_PEpU/s1600/F16.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Grasp hem of Skirt Back; pull through shoulder seam to front of garment</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuRk0-L2RSkR0XpBREyQX9vEw0yNOpIiChqSSMYZKkn85F1sklAErPxLCTdtIQq39y8HV63V1F4dy2Fib8e5skWVJy9gAZEDrY2FzYLIuMv_MVHZGG9ujJEOcr96WwJU5HOnjnS6j6vOc/s1600/F17.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuRk0-L2RSkR0XpBREyQX9vEw0yNOpIiChqSSMYZKkn85F1sklAErPxLCTdtIQq39y8HV63V1F4dy2Fib8e5skWVJy9gAZEDrY2FzYLIuMv_MVHZGG9ujJEOcr96WwJU5HOnjnS6j6vOc/s1600/F17.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Press armhole in place without changing pressing of neckline done previously</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA9ShCrC-0HUUprWKvqsV_ROUR-Be0ss_HlF2o5zlqBhyphenhyphenI1wg-mc3JIt5e-oiI0y0SP-h32NJPjvus_EWqMVFL-Ku5_JEM1szFufNV5lorllpoXPZADSiIBL-MM3BgHbAMpK9IghVyIbc/s1600/F18.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA9ShCrC-0HUUprWKvqsV_ROUR-Be0ss_HlF2o5zlqBhyphenhyphenI1wg-mc3JIt5e-oiI0y0SP-h32NJPjvus_EWqMVFL-Ku5_JEM1szFufNV5lorllpoXPZADSiIBL-MM3BgHbAMpK9IghVyIbc/s1600/F18.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Neckline and armhole facings are complete</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Step 10 Invisible Zipper</b></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2wlYWrMUbdHiIUOA_40lCCbWDak1JQsaaTr0wLVbddN5ouM0GB9tj0eWySAfv3HIzDdiyaXmjBo98njVJQaZY1GSLLGD9clBl7YLoiT0vomsVWYVNItebeMHKk7c-HR3mbt_zEm5nK9U/s1600/F+19.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2wlYWrMUbdHiIUOA_40lCCbWDak1JQsaaTr0wLVbddN5ouM0GB9tj0eWySAfv3HIzDdiyaXmjBo98njVJQaZY1GSLLGD9clBl7YLoiT0vomsVWYVNItebeMHKk7c-HR3mbt_zEm5nK9U/s1600/F+19.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Top line is 3/4" down, second line is 7 1/2" below top line</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQLajwkh1ddY3iWiKqX1fT7OEDsp2-1zvY_tQbUURuOUbyINlpnNwdJWnFJwSx9eDhaCkdEWefOTHCMtHdWMDV-l6yETV9okJlO24K2xPD9FIo0WMrxo8ksLyO8WyPtcJndm7jKxHNqF8/s1600/F20.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQLajwkh1ddY3iWiKqX1fT7OEDsp2-1zvY_tQbUURuOUbyINlpnNwdJWnFJwSx9eDhaCkdEWefOTHCMtHdWMDV-l6yETV9okJlO24K2xPD9FIo0WMrxo8ksLyO8WyPtcJndm7jKxHNqF8/s1600/F20.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Mark zipper above plastic top stop</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8z_zTdIrV8Y361Rz3YnyPlHHjYjL3Ev04RiD4XUQfbJ3onTFKIrfLLVAgvysXu_tpjC86BNf_xzgVcaelewU2dDQnkYFtcDS7q245b2XvEbRUzRNat38f7oMk3NQvgqKh46kW1IaeidM/s1600/F21.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8z_zTdIrV8Y361Rz3YnyPlHHjYjL3Ev04RiD4XUQfbJ3onTFKIrfLLVAgvysXu_tpjC86BNf_xzgVcaelewU2dDQnkYFtcDS7q245b2XvEbRUzRNat38f7oMk3NQvgqKh46kW1IaeidM/s1600/F21.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Mark on reverse also</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUw4U5msF7B4EoI6yGtOf9KMfcZ2kJtiMpADaGjcIh4f4dbsxYLtuudOijnveen4NwfwSMtSxY60FdDADJhsaMOvHZI2oFUjDNI2KQute0G8_ykXKNDCksWSbwBKXcdebNebMsfaabrXs/s1600/F22.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUw4U5msF7B4EoI6yGtOf9KMfcZ2kJtiMpADaGjcIh4f4dbsxYLtuudOijnveen4NwfwSMtSxY60FdDADJhsaMOvHZI2oFUjDNI2KQute0G8_ykXKNDCksWSbwBKXcdebNebMsfaabrXs/s1600/F22.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Mark point above plastic top stop on other side of zipper</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ-_GVUURmigt982cy2YHYz8_JycrH3I71idvms-LIdrf0IWIr9ddlU0fkt7Z7Eip3z__3vXKM2crr3w-lMfBK8xdHzuKBF6XBuFf2i5W89Fp3uYdLkRyJnZvZZUvO99aIp10i05nVKok/s1600/F23.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ-_GVUURmigt982cy2YHYz8_JycrH3I71idvms-LIdrf0IWIr9ddlU0fkt7Z7Eip3z__3vXKM2crr3w-lMfBK8xdHzuKBF6XBuFf2i5W89Fp3uYdLkRyJnZvZZUvO99aIp10i05nVKok/s1600/F23.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Mark 7 1/2" down from plastic top stop</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiarP3oDIyJP-NeGheKd2WQZsImsS4nS87p9IohyphenhyphenbMWDJ1mPovT5me1Y4pCad9ftMWRs5Ru81QZGozSAHaTK2sX0gwelaSg8OTmzIBMO1SsVpq6pX6WSGQ5GKTMWIHeOifpwCX78movaqU/s1600/F24.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiarP3oDIyJP-NeGheKd2WQZsImsS4nS87p9IohyphenhyphenbMWDJ1mPovT5me1Y4pCad9ftMWRs5Ru81QZGozSAHaTK2sX0gwelaSg8OTmzIBMO1SsVpq6pX6WSGQ5GKTMWIHeOifpwCX78movaqU/s1600/F24.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">on both sides</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOeyBL8A1dCvo8v7eA6Has1LC_oUwRb09-MAnrn_QSK2e3JiYTvSVB-P423adO1LkXPpovXA3hL-uTmBi_Rxn-tYuuCA_PjPkWdW7VK7ReOGj4DumNEgu0KXvLtm3Jeavt2b-NtQDEy8E/s1600/F25.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOeyBL8A1dCvo8v7eA6Has1LC_oUwRb09-MAnrn_QSK2e3JiYTvSVB-P423adO1LkXPpovXA3hL-uTmBi_Rxn-tYuuCA_PjPkWdW7VK7ReOGj4DumNEgu0KXvLtm3Jeavt2b-NtQDEy8E/s1600/F25.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">On low heat, press zipper coils open</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4rCH3fbUKO4a5DW_4nW7eYT7-qWBErPyvLdt4h6hf8FrYJWLAlFp7lFi8Bi0MwqgiJ9Dguwu7mPdJj29wwhiAkFZW1h1eiFi6iaROq7MdfqYYKWl4W3QEfD60LeewT1PPlVmf9pyeKF0/s1600/F26.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4rCH3fbUKO4a5DW_4nW7eYT7-qWBErPyvLdt4h6hf8FrYJWLAlFp7lFi8Bi0MwqgiJ9Dguwu7mPdJj29wwhiAkFZW1h1eiFi6iaROq7MdfqYYKWl4W3QEfD60LeewT1PPlVmf9pyeKF0/s1600/F26.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pin one side of zipper on right side of garment, with stitching line of zipper 5/8" from edge</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWCT2E9YT28McaGjVfl26FoCnMlT9Pzv1WuRm4xli9ULsBaPpNikCdTs2L6q5VtptCAtAKWnoD5Vjsb2RSeSI014JRFhjwKK_qTe3oH6_DA5W3GE-iTZr5sOpn-89FVJnfcVG1nW0-tpM/s1600/F27.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWCT2E9YT28McaGjVfl26FoCnMlT9Pzv1WuRm4xli9ULsBaPpNikCdTs2L6q5VtptCAtAKWnoD5Vjsb2RSeSI014JRFhjwKK_qTe3oH6_DA5W3GE-iTZr5sOpn-89FVJnfcVG1nW0-tpM/s1600/F27.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Using a zipper foot and with needle moved to far left position, stitch between top and bottom marks</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTc1M_SBz4VWAnGhkPjEG9LS2oeaDA7W6q678GRxyxZaUos_826nCNtuZgzWTN2gIM6l9jl-j4gWyeGf18icMVpTRs_pRbuZLnZG-QJyesx8Hu99ZYdDd_FLa6N7JcOrjJj-8wHHoc_Ls/s1600/F28.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTc1M_SBz4VWAnGhkPjEG9LS2oeaDA7W6q678GRxyxZaUos_826nCNtuZgzWTN2gIM6l9jl-j4gWyeGf18icMVpTRs_pRbuZLnZG-QJyesx8Hu99ZYdDd_FLa6N7JcOrjJj-8wHHoc_Ls/s1600/F28.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Top of stitching</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTthSBUUX3atthuHke-r8AxmfbsriAikX1OE0wZJCyMkvsStURJQQr0uXlZ72DZ94lGrUXyY_DFF-IV1DUy98r-LLClpXlloqgCgbJ-QMi8WMZlwwUHYI5YgmTt2e1yoVd8FWFegamhvc/s1600/F29.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTthSBUUX3atthuHke-r8AxmfbsriAikX1OE0wZJCyMkvsStURJQQr0uXlZ72DZ94lGrUXyY_DFF-IV1DUy98r-LLClpXlloqgCgbJ-QMi8WMZlwwUHYI5YgmTt2e1yoVd8FWFegamhvc/s1600/F29.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">One side is stitched</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUL-74Wz6spUOXtHWMCDQUrt-06Od95RA-qQ5kMgZAH28-pzXcsFQTzhgj5b1oXtcGDm5zjGZHxkCicfLdxdzqpUbD4gdJxqK9o8aqlPJmYqG5bHwb8XTD7DvxDXktVUf_qjq8Ifdf4j8/s1600/F30.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUL-74Wz6spUOXtHWMCDQUrt-06Od95RA-qQ5kMgZAH28-pzXcsFQTzhgj5b1oXtcGDm5zjGZHxkCicfLdxdzqpUbD4gdJxqK9o8aqlPJmYqG5bHwb8XTD7DvxDXktVUf_qjq8Ifdf4j8/s1600/F30.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pin second side in place</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoLMyLKoo8zCNc__3tN-TfSeNT-u5-5lnB5WhRWe4vLOz7lVK3nGaE7M-HzypvJ2231k9NFEcRGUZMcfyzA04HkVxEU0Y-dnVWeqp5RRa4XQv9oXismqI6UGMCgN27T_8Bot6acDuXemI/s1600/F31.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoLMyLKoo8zCNc__3tN-TfSeNT-u5-5lnB5WhRWe4vLOz7lVK3nGaE7M-HzypvJ2231k9NFEcRGUZMcfyzA04HkVxEU0Y-dnVWeqp5RRa4XQv9oXismqI6UGMCgN27T_8Bot6acDuXemI/s1600/F31.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Move needle to far right position; stitch along coils between top and bottom marks</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmndwXwcFU6cdRGYZDlDki6O_gTUb_eOM0t6y19Ph7hCDyPLyJw2CnUQeKiIXRHKIhdfxeU9mjo-xCOCelN0j7uqG24AhG1uMQ9iXCk8a4izyLdIxZmkcfRyIKfQ6C5LK0mXwjAhEeP_Q/s1600/F32.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmndwXwcFU6cdRGYZDlDki6O_gTUb_eOM0t6y19Ph7hCDyPLyJw2CnUQeKiIXRHKIhdfxeU9mjo-xCOCelN0j7uqG24AhG1uMQ9iXCk8a4izyLdIxZmkcfRyIKfQ6C5LK0mXwjAhEeP_Q/s1600/F32.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Both sides stitched between marks</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLGKwOkQXv_t_W-00YHAgSBIszRdEGbxjH3w2F2IT0FsJF_m8NmjrLZF3IYE-3bUR6jR1skPrfYzC9IPdGV5OtfEamPZQdf9Udv0lNCQIWcAyNnJMeCBjcGY01ras7x9Wl9RVtQBTYUb0/s1600/F33.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLGKwOkQXv_t_W-00YHAgSBIszRdEGbxjH3w2F2IT0FsJF_m8NmjrLZF3IYE-3bUR6jR1skPrfYzC9IPdGV5OtfEamPZQdf9Udv0lNCQIWcAyNnJMeCBjcGY01ras7x9Wl9RVtQBTYUb0/s1600/F33.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">View from inside of garment</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpnHe2nfyjQkRoQAaJbQClqT_fJoDo6uLCiSkiIVdhWo8hlUtmLtBpI_G5mYsLY0Dt-WVIAkYNkUvTdvhvka8SgOw8QLQSVt2Dlgh8kZj2fRmbmEtbnASx5VkLKHsKwlW9VMcl3C9AaiE/s1600/F34.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpnHe2nfyjQkRoQAaJbQClqT_fJoDo6uLCiSkiIVdhWo8hlUtmLtBpI_G5mYsLY0Dt-WVIAkYNkUvTdvhvka8SgOw8QLQSVt2Dlgh8kZj2fRmbmEtbnASx5VkLKHsKwlW9VMcl3C9AaiE/s1600/F34.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pull slider up and close zipper</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDdQVnIcXZuOUQN7MMJXYWRm-1ekWnb7ekztTRJ7YrdRuct2DQjfR8xn0iO3htPyDyIx60dfEKHgxCQGJpdlKCE5ssNOd2fPEhxFz6uIoKxEPwE7pVgePODC3BcZkhzlR0-JauvI4UZyA/s1600/F35.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDdQVnIcXZuOUQN7MMJXYWRm-1ekWnb7ekztTRJ7YrdRuct2DQjfR8xn0iO3htPyDyIx60dfEKHgxCQGJpdlKCE5ssNOd2fPEhxFz6uIoKxEPwE7pVgePODC3BcZkhzlR0-JauvI4UZyA/s1600/F35.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">View from right side of garment. Seam below zipper still needs to be closed</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrJN-YN_XsjD1LCqcdahETGDaoNf8jbEkcon3CV_oT3P4n2sVwg1uSeqZm2BRmOz3Y5HSHKrOgd2eujhN5AO-pjVQ-IRBsDMyRLbhVuWSnUXHAp1Or55bXEpcVd45Qmqubp-_y4ou7YGU/s1600/F36.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrJN-YN_XsjD1LCqcdahETGDaoNf8jbEkcon3CV_oT3P4n2sVwg1uSeqZm2BRmOz3Y5HSHKrOgd2eujhN5AO-pjVQ-IRBsDMyRLbhVuWSnUXHAp1Or55bXEpcVd45Qmqubp-_y4ou7YGU/s1600/F36.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Our dress has a waist seam that must match across the zipper. Stitch the first side of the zipper in place. Then mark the waistline seam with chalk on the second side of the zipper.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7lRaD2HYsMCL3CxXCxZg7cjjyNDvKnldJFms31GawoPegggvB3et9VCs7cPLq69ZjVVcfnYIMcSMDBQy6TP_WNMUAaFwHxitdVpAYkdB4h7kVt2Fsx-Och4kyd3RAQV4ittcHUm6nEH0/s1600/F37.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7lRaD2HYsMCL3CxXCxZg7cjjyNDvKnldJFms31GawoPegggvB3et9VCs7cPLq69ZjVVcfnYIMcSMDBQy6TP_WNMUAaFwHxitdVpAYkdB4h7kVt2Fsx-Och4kyd3RAQV4ittcHUm6nEH0/s1600/F37.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Baste chalk line to waist seam on other side of garment. Move zipper up or down as needed to align with first side. Stitch second side between top and bottom marks.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9WUjzAbWswEEnWbqP2Yb2FhlvyWeq_iOUDFNPSCDH718r2ka70ecTqQtPSz-wqTHmXgzBkF2N6z0_TCxxpDEuOaOIAXgcOObCYzpAJv3fHhENzzUT9QqIb4TIeWR9STmSLuloMv-Es9k/s1600/Z+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9WUjzAbWswEEnWbqP2Yb2FhlvyWeq_iOUDFNPSCDH718r2ka70ecTqQtPSz-wqTHmXgzBkF2N6z0_TCxxpDEuOaOIAXgcOObCYzpAJv3fHhENzzUT9QqIb4TIeWR9STmSLuloMv-Es9k/s1600/Z+1.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Right side of garment, neckline on left, hem on right. We need to close the seam below the zipper now.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBiVbX6EIVsOM6kiqw7vSPFudWKVlrV9ZtLzBopaGAKgDIEYJPQUkef3LZcxxAV-kUvU5OUQEE-z7bZJ8eR28nno8UAU3H73O8liTnuW8E78LrHpPUy1SLFKArDCBaRAHSm_ISz5rUcSk/s1600/Z+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBiVbX6EIVsOM6kiqw7vSPFudWKVlrV9ZtLzBopaGAKgDIEYJPQUkef3LZcxxAV-kUvU5OUQEE-z7bZJ8eR28nno8UAU3H73O8liTnuW8E78LrHpPUy1SLFKArDCBaRAHSm_ISz5rUcSk/s1600/Z+2.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pin seam below zipper right sides together</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmubdmV2TJRutD2KfiNN7VY2oaNjt25f5RoBKvp2d8s9yr1cBjCwEM9HahnH4xqj07PxR6v3PYjI9sB6dH3Xf42BqWU6wDSAEL43MjPJGP7S9Wdx5r16V4-7Rf7ID1mWPYJ7eFGJ59aDE/s1600/Z+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmubdmV2TJRutD2KfiNN7VY2oaNjt25f5RoBKvp2d8s9yr1cBjCwEM9HahnH4xqj07PxR6v3PYjI9sB6dH3Xf42BqWU6wDSAEL43MjPJGP7S9Wdx5r16V4-7Rf7ID1mWPYJ7eFGJ59aDE/s1600/Z+3.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Begin stitching at hem. You are still using a zipper foot but the needle is in the center position.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb6KTpFjA7frqDVWEMPRiXMwcovmADGTYeaINYfc1FLkwvEkwaUpOoJkkcTAe4iUmESyHteSpMFyp9NAFUVLW6e9ZEYd4byOfPDN1LCZ12S6RJ4qiWAANN4wD0HicCuWWSCr6EdBIxvE0/s1600/Z+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb6KTpFjA7frqDVWEMPRiXMwcovmADGTYeaINYfc1FLkwvEkwaUpOoJkkcTAe4iUmESyHteSpMFyp9NAFUVLW6e9ZEYd4byOfPDN1LCZ12S6RJ4qiWAANN4wD0HicCuWWSCr6EdBIxvE0/s1600/Z+5.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Our stitching is approaching the bottom of the zipper. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7jPi19lVRr5VbhM_5Xj_ULoeeMpbnBHQhpCJ1CJ_wfHdswk1DmtU1YQ3aFSpK_rv3S2yNLOd_nlyqrKXdZqYazltn1wnoEpPd-YRknQuwW5QvMQuBw3x2RHOhxXiXsO9SB3H_dVRGdac/s1600/Z+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7jPi19lVRr5VbhM_5Xj_ULoeeMpbnBHQhpCJ1CJ_wfHdswk1DmtU1YQ3aFSpK_rv3S2yNLOd_nlyqrKXdZqYazltn1wnoEpPd-YRknQuwW5QvMQuBw3x2RHOhxXiXsO9SB3H_dVRGdac/s1600/Z+4.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Meet the bottom of the zipper stitching and continue another 1/2"</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiajwd087UR5Ix-XXIEuQY8ppOw0N88VUnWzGfFU1rrUCNMBITfY_8vKc4m8Hup8Rvd16bhlPpD7U693xktwHHSqnlsNiYWvQLxFfl0MCWPbN4W6QBCPxrjNY0QyPjvTFMzHlR8TsxBpVE/s1600/Z+6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiajwd087UR5Ix-XXIEuQY8ppOw0N88VUnWzGfFU1rrUCNMBITfY_8vKc4m8Hup8Rvd16bhlPpD7U693xktwHHSqnlsNiYWvQLxFfl0MCWPbN4W6QBCPxrjNY0QyPjvTFMzHlR8TsxBpVE/s1600/Z+6.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Press seam allowance open</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoKyYU3och7wWXf1u3rt3HHipNbuCDmVYhPV0QeHPdeXLqfEpmfrgw2UPqf2EvVJ8S1hTfhyphenhyphenRwY3HR3Q18MauH2MMyCfcW8aPbU9YCKvqVGGAaO4Rv3XWtpsoQIT0ge5z_k2_6gxu2-ZA/s1600/Z+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoKyYU3och7wWXf1u3rt3HHipNbuCDmVYhPV0QeHPdeXLqfEpmfrgw2UPqf2EvVJ8S1hTfhyphenhyphenRwY3HR3Q18MauH2MMyCfcW8aPbU9YCKvqVGGAaO4Rv3XWtpsoQIT0ge5z_k2_6gxu2-ZA/s1600/Z+7.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Tack bottom of each side of zipper to seam allowance, keeping garment free</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixPrDvl0pL3FyS2pjbe2lbJf9Pi6uDAg7SSp0b0Miu_4mNWTlyu8aKcrla4mwNvILrkDwM8iv2dDfUpRb6pelf6jexJvDvD-K8DSoZ-HuPem3SuGSXHbe1uyJGMNJ34M5OuqNkRN-1htM/s1600/Z+8.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixPrDvl0pL3FyS2pjbe2lbJf9Pi6uDAg7SSp0b0Miu_4mNWTlyu8aKcrla4mwNvILrkDwM8iv2dDfUpRb6pelf6jexJvDvD-K8DSoZ-HuPem3SuGSXHbe1uyJGMNJ34M5OuqNkRN-1htM/s1600/Z+8.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Cut off top of zipper above plastic top stop</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSA8TEbTCariYvZ2OsCfXUqxLJWUOCG9_fCZys_zDW7yHW7j5x3GiWLxq22L7Ja0qfPLduFu4BBMdqZITxImxTgZwplNXHzu-G_fdS4ODbdb-ejptXewSnlT-vC8R-4hv-DG5ZlWsF4gY/s1600/Z+9.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSA8TEbTCariYvZ2OsCfXUqxLJWUOCG9_fCZys_zDW7yHW7j5x3GiWLxq22L7Ja0qfPLduFu4BBMdqZITxImxTgZwplNXHzu-G_fdS4ODbdb-ejptXewSnlT-vC8R-4hv-DG5ZlWsF4gY/s1600/Z+9.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Apply seam sealant if desired</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyEmhurt2ngGDfAqHHLqh0CIyBgTl0iPoDO6kzTyd8PPraHuw1yOqXqDp4xPXycr2MdJEZM53jojwYvWjOtr2snCQfg8i8QPVeT2TjreRayg2CDIotJBoECEXxkytKTqMDCY00JoEK5Ho/s1600/Z+10.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyEmhurt2ngGDfAqHHLqh0CIyBgTl0iPoDO6kzTyd8PPraHuw1yOqXqDp4xPXycr2MdJEZM53jojwYvWjOtr2snCQfg8i8QPVeT2TjreRayg2CDIotJBoECEXxkytKTqMDCY00JoEK5Ho/s1600/Z+10.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Tack facing in place along zipper tape, leaving room for slider to operate</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Step 11 Side Seams</b></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNtwMt-HwU_W06PVsRljbkq7jk2NwDjZcuSMLB3QAfOgd3_TUioOzBhHzobPJmn2SHxup5BJUsvSxk8cRvA-nD1me4nuiBP2ET65xUSaJnfzUGa2-wBXlVIiQlb5tfkPeOHbhu9OLrfkg/s1600/Z+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNtwMt-HwU_W06PVsRljbkq7jk2NwDjZcuSMLB3QAfOgd3_TUioOzBhHzobPJmn2SHxup5BJUsvSxk8cRvA-nD1me4nuiBP2ET65xUSaJnfzUGa2-wBXlVIiQlb5tfkPeOHbhu9OLrfkg/s1600/Z+11.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Baste side seams, wrong sides together, with 1" seam allowances. Open facings as pictured above. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0ntK1lxuzbXfUCCCqNaWbQ7HTaU7bjFhiMK3P_1uw4fsvcN03OAAQszmigZ7jkoITMGlwF1SnUUSHFg8ChXtihA10HyYybV-WceF62nqmO2w2DopEoh3_vwuWtg5MQJal18Jah2LDJy0/s1600/E+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0ntK1lxuzbXfUCCCqNaWbQ7HTaU7bjFhiMK3P_1uw4fsvcN03OAAQszmigZ7jkoITMGlwF1SnUUSHFg8ChXtihA10HyYybV-WceF62nqmO2w2DopEoh3_vwuWtg5MQJal18Jah2LDJy0/s1600/E+2.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Try on dress. Analyze fit and either let out or take in side seams as needed. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNW0Cv5cKYrEIN2yFoiFMwmcOg77ZdV_x9Tqaq5GX0TgAy2SLQKmVhuudUVFhSrwdj2uhCOuTupDmgw5B2lg67jN1Nj23CjQRHFF0JqPjYH85MgMYFj2dN6FCo_cA4Yrod9An6gH3kcjg/s1600/E+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNW0Cv5cKYrEIN2yFoiFMwmcOg77ZdV_x9Tqaq5GX0TgAy2SLQKmVhuudUVFhSrwdj2uhCOuTupDmgw5B2lg67jN1Nj23CjQRHFF0JqPjYH85MgMYFj2dN6FCo_cA4Yrod9An6gH3kcjg/s1600/E+3.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Use chalk and french curve to mark changes evenly on both side seams. Here I am narrowing the garment 1/2" from underarm to waist</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj53VVM6ti-z-yB34-mD5bRJVXmjKqtGLPW6s_jIKdt8sHgxG5nbe0TfP8bpkrvHYqmpHvKlpH3ohSO5AleBPycqiR5998uhF8OOB-xXY0irIATesGVwo-49QOdC4HWyucVKxVs_v_VBCM/s1600/E+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj53VVM6ti-z-yB34-mD5bRJVXmjKqtGLPW6s_jIKdt8sHgxG5nbe0TfP8bpkrvHYqmpHvKlpH3ohSO5AleBPycqiR5998uhF8OOB-xXY0irIATesGVwo-49QOdC4HWyucVKxVs_v_VBCM/s1600/E+4.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">I am letting the hip area out 3/8"; mark with chalk and french curve. Trim seam allowances evenly to 5/8" if possible, and remove basting stitches.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaV2oKJlCzZ85308kMfeuvfgk06Kwb0IHLYwP1djXWkqB2nj6JxvPi-dcoLICgeZoEuhqx53JpnPVeefp4UF3wj5ikFQyJ_zbW9xSTfOBxD239uVqVksrbVIW8XMmL2ubr_karsnrm5Zc/s1600/E+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaV2oKJlCzZ85308kMfeuvfgk06Kwb0IHLYwP1djXWkqB2nj6JxvPi-dcoLICgeZoEuhqx53JpnPVeefp4UF3wj5ikFQyJ_zbW9xSTfOBxD239uVqVksrbVIW8XMmL2ubr_karsnrm5Zc/s1600/E+5.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">When you repin side seam allowances right sides together, carefully match facing seam at underarm </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC0jfSnlQlsUCb03VfDpoxaB2iwUhLG4c2_0nirNF440qxiPeYk9lIOm8Z69DVOMFbxHCfgHuXLSeutb-Z5ZBq2iIH0tUhjQwmru1w8EsjuO-sF5GKw9G16ruh1g9blP_jyzP0H7bvKKI/s1600/E+6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC0jfSnlQlsUCb03VfDpoxaB2iwUhLG4c2_0nirNF440qxiPeYk9lIOm8Z69DVOMFbxHCfgHuXLSeutb-Z5ZBq2iIH0tUhjQwmru1w8EsjuO-sF5GKw9G16ruh1g9blP_jyzP0H7bvKKI/s1600/E+6.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Also match front and back bodice side panels along hip</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5DRUzU5zarinF6NumTIFifq-ieyXPmj8QVacT6q7_ZYT7isvRqgTqYrXdvNGDgvcRj-07VFpR3eSSZjKVsYK0RHVd_DwxhdLodoH05LdrsHOPO3VdtyU7tegHoAbfK-GE3UlasB2osNs/s1600/E+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5DRUzU5zarinF6NumTIFifq-ieyXPmj8QVacT6q7_ZYT7isvRqgTqYrXdvNGDgvcRj-07VFpR3eSSZjKVsYK0RHVd_DwxhdLodoH05LdrsHOPO3VdtyU7tegHoAbfK-GE3UlasB2osNs/s1600/E+7.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Most of the side seam is stitched from top of garment to hem. However, to avoid trouble with the bulky seam allowances where the facing meets the armhole, stitch up to the facing, rather than down this portion of the side seam. Therefore I have divided each side seam's stitching into two steps. Keep the facing seam allowances pressed up to the facing.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0uKF6yHGwuBVflrxe-01J1OUgdybYr6uqagofnaq_kTZIiADFNkImqF7weyvX63yh89zTSusfBEHlSy0S4tx5ECy9VIBS6xWAY-KMbrP9FlJe-a28HTrFYmSBRSXvJeQBTCdxOHMJnAg/s1600/E+8.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0uKF6yHGwuBVflrxe-01J1OUgdybYr6uqagofnaq_kTZIiADFNkImqF7weyvX63yh89zTSusfBEHlSy0S4tx5ECy9VIBS6xWAY-KMbrP9FlJe-a28HTrFYmSBRSXvJeQBTCdxOHMJnAg/s1600/E+8.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Nice matching of the bodice side panels at the hip</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsGnBuJoAWigA_uUpUkJ8yRk9ydSoK-U4BuwHSNs5W84hvoWTUS6i__W7wXdFVdQktxry3TUppeYKC9KAmYe3wHopeUnorO1x4YOy9GaY_MLzQAQzkQUp08S18qWwff1WUlfyw820ffKI/s1600/E+9.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsGnBuJoAWigA_uUpUkJ8yRk9ydSoK-U4BuwHSNs5W84hvoWTUS6i__W7wXdFVdQktxry3TUppeYKC9KAmYe3wHopeUnorO1x4YOy9GaY_MLzQAQzkQUp08S18qWwff1WUlfyw820ffKI/s1600/E+9.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Press seam allowances toward garment back, overlock raw edges together, and seam seal overlock threads at top of facing</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoIjMNAcU5h_jvimYd7rRuuBf_LfdolthIBVk8dmieXJhWmL6_QnoXF6hIcg2Lsk-iyvmcgoyUQv7DgbeT0vLfw1XHBOxbwY7XtWkJFLmiCKPYPPtGE4RDJ7-tAL5pYpr7I_s3m2vywDE/s1600/E+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoIjMNAcU5h_jvimYd7rRuuBf_LfdolthIBVk8dmieXJhWmL6_QnoXF6hIcg2Lsk-iyvmcgoyUQv7DgbeT0vLfw1XHBOxbwY7XtWkJFLmiCKPYPPtGE4RDJ7-tAL5pYpr7I_s3m2vywDE/s1600/E+11.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">To hold facing in place at underarm, pin facing side seam to match garment side seam</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihJWm2mqzZz4qAdkaPpMnVYG4pd92goh4etc5unS_4EYvggJ6Z2hNouRab0hz35dDA38ruFCrJR-0B3bfQ5CGupXxkSo-qEzWF0Ou8tNlO32pTZXQx6RjZl2_13jry3H2-OglMIsl27V0/s1600/E+12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihJWm2mqzZz4qAdkaPpMnVYG4pd92goh4etc5unS_4EYvggJ6Z2hNouRab0hz35dDA38ruFCrJR-0B3bfQ5CGupXxkSo-qEzWF0Ou8tNlO32pTZXQx6RjZl2_13jry3H2-OglMIsl27V0/s1600/E+12.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Stitch from finished edge, on right side of garment, 2" or to bottom of facing. Stitches should be invisible as they are placed exactly in the side seam stitching. Note the yellow plastic device behind the presser foot; it keeps the foot level so the machine does not struggle to start the stitching. Use a rolled scrap of fabric if you do not have a "hump jumper".</span></td></tr>
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<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Step 12 Hem</b></span><br />
The hem stitches should be invisible on the outside of the garment. A top stitched hem is not appropriate for this style of dress.<br />
You have two options for utilizing the blind hem stitch: by machine or by hand. Light colored fabrics and thin fabrics will look better with a hand stitched hem. Dark colored fabrics and medium weight fabrics support a machine blind hem stitch very well. Here are both hem applications:<br />
By hand:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYxAqM-tx7Zb-XrtxJKv5QHbvsTPEqO6wUZ4By9Ibz9R-JC7_o5U5yFLkUR5oMQ75HCrwzjIJh2QJYhY7cAVSJkGMqV-tiRamhuldFmoeiYu5OM1Lb18dE7x848e-6JEuL96XOWtqDdug/s1600/Hem+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYxAqM-tx7Zb-XrtxJKv5QHbvsTPEqO6wUZ4By9Ibz9R-JC7_o5U5yFLkUR5oMQ75HCrwzjIJh2QJYhY7cAVSJkGMqV-tiRamhuldFmoeiYu5OM1Lb18dE7x848e-6JEuL96XOWtqDdug/s1600/Hem+1.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Press up 2" hem allowance</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ4_oGM9KrCHnln55C6SkDIQ0uSvxRWoTNqmyPHjbTduH7o4Qg3A4cw4Wv7QC9tmpKbIeBDaRsg9DdR4Oqn9TxEuFV5aUYAjHQBpHNgl0a_8Wt7T0xp0CGZpN0gZoZ3JoX-o5RsQ_uj_M/s1600/Hem+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ4_oGM9KrCHnln55C6SkDIQ0uSvxRWoTNqmyPHjbTduH7o4Qg3A4cw4Wv7QC9tmpKbIeBDaRsg9DdR4Oqn9TxEuFV5aUYAjHQBpHNgl0a_8Wt7T0xp0CGZpN0gZoZ3JoX-o5RsQ_uj_M/s1600/Hem+2.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Fold 2" hem allowance in half and pin in place. Use hand sewing needle and blind hem stitch to hem garment</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
By machine:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivZIRoD6cH1nYgaMp2QH_6uOCTwQJBukdD2ocVruSi3lNBLmSt33AYPOVkhfqiFg8nD-vuCTL-rtOWgeO1xvHjp_KA41FagF1gtOqJ2bo0hZsNE-Q13Gbd4h-mc6D6O6lfuZPi1L5EK5M/s1600/Hem+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivZIRoD6cH1nYgaMp2QH_6uOCTwQJBukdD2ocVruSi3lNBLmSt33AYPOVkhfqiFg8nD-vuCTL-rtOWgeO1xvHjp_KA41FagF1gtOqJ2bo0hZsNE-Q13Gbd4h-mc6D6O6lfuZPi1L5EK5M/s1600/Hem+3.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Serge raw edge of 2" hem allowance which has been pressed to inside</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEPdY-reUcR8aP-uKBZeHscl5TTmgYUsvoH3axCq-14eolkG2ZZoEVkgLGJ-f2I0wSmV74dAuo4gQX8ryx3wKTUwOvKxgW8TgwKKkBukMlTt_iFycu2Nquu7iGTOhd72GCvD6b5xjD8NE/s1600/Hem+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEPdY-reUcR8aP-uKBZeHscl5TTmgYUsvoH3axCq-14eolkG2ZZoEVkgLGJ-f2I0wSmV74dAuo4gQX8ryx3wKTUwOvKxgW8TgwKKkBukMlTt_iFycu2Nquu7iGTOhd72GCvD6b5xjD8NE/s1600/Hem+4.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Place pins horizontally, 1/3 down from serged edge</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZWq7KD0OT6HYdC_WdPhbqr2DhcZqswnGrm_WydYjjmdtlqtwAruWOjVC5_ro52OjUu7QbiGlepg-T8e-X5ml-BaEbjixJsM_-B3Mwj4_KtWVhqGSFCKC4QxCM__Taw7M_ZkPBlbsvhyA/s1600/Hem+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZWq7KD0OT6HYdC_WdPhbqr2DhcZqswnGrm_WydYjjmdtlqtwAruWOjVC5_ro52OjUu7QbiGlepg-T8e-X5ml-BaEbjixJsM_-B3Mwj4_KtWVhqGSFCKC4QxCM__Taw7M_ZkPBlbsvhyA/s1600/Hem+5.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Fold back hem allowance and place garment in this position. Use blind hem stitch on machine to stitch invisibly. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAydFUOBYuonIg7LFB_iu6C3kSJhvNPYdlpJ_WPJNFgYep8nRQkeSpZC1mmyTwuXJsjAfy8XsgiFKT4XnG_eli9H-xqouigOSY1f0Xf6WRIQL8dOWjkkvjTmM7mlYi0y_SogHV5lxnDUk/s1600/Hem+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAydFUOBYuonIg7LFB_iu6C3kSJhvNPYdlpJ_WPJNFgYep8nRQkeSpZC1mmyTwuXJsjAfy8XsgiFKT4XnG_eli9H-xqouigOSY1f0Xf6WRIQL8dOWjkkvjTmM7mlYi0y_SogHV5lxnDUk/s1600/Hem+6.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Press hem in place. In the above photo you do not see a row of stitches but rather a fold from machine stitching the hem that will be pressed away</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiE8eLJwGcY_AjDb5nJUFzagk4XG2uGAF-nmpCovQ9HiGx57eNEaKrviO2q53JDdPbMepDQ-Xg87gFXxan4VeoKKFlQwHbbU7TOykiLjZi1DpbzxodaP3eKTMh17vG7p_4TA_pKZvZvRY/s1600/Hem+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiE8eLJwGcY_AjDb5nJUFzagk4XG2uGAF-nmpCovQ9HiGx57eNEaKrviO2q53JDdPbMepDQ-Xg87gFXxan4VeoKKFlQwHbbU7TOykiLjZi1DpbzxodaP3eKTMh17vG7p_4TA_pKZvZvRY/s1600/Hem+7.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">This sample shows the machine stitching; hem allowance to right, garment to left; you are working on the inside of the garment here</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUZZdtnPsr9SccSYc8J45bYOtF_m_8KmkTpolpdIYpnOa-kIK7wOf8hEQfBhd2vOanlfUlJROO-WLDbwNSPkp4fzDKyAaQwVOScDV5UqOt_mAh3DhG_Zftgvqa1P9_MQ-cjbVLG9J__xU/s1600/Hem+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUZZdtnPsr9SccSYc8J45bYOtF_m_8KmkTpolpdIYpnOa-kIK7wOf8hEQfBhd2vOanlfUlJROO-WLDbwNSPkp4fzDKyAaQwVOScDV5UqOt_mAh3DhG_Zftgvqa1P9_MQ-cjbVLG9J__xU/s1600/Hem+8.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">View of hem from right side of garment</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b> Step 13 Final Press and Embellishment Work </b></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjewt_Wuc5dbr0dkTUBcIuSqQfkf3SbltvQvkYhU4fvPqrDQhvVpj3e1l0CNyTJlW7Xby3XW8DIiMOVJZF4B4dkr4JpfFpCfDRJLKse_Y0StEe9g_evcqcqNv1QUmVUO6c5dzA1gmOwLGU/s1600/End+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjewt_Wuc5dbr0dkTUBcIuSqQfkf3SbltvQvkYhU4fvPqrDQhvVpj3e1l0CNyTJlW7Xby3XW8DIiMOVJZF4B4dkr4JpfFpCfDRJLKse_Y0StEe9g_evcqcqNv1QUmVUO6c5dzA1gmOwLGU/s1600/End+1.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">I am adding 6mm hot-fix antique brass round nail heads to the front and back bodice side panels. The nail heads are placed at the intersections in the diagonal top stitching. I ran out of nail heads, so I will show you a photo of the finished embellishment when it is done!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpYFimf8nF3T5LLLqxYl-Y_HdqgjhCi0p8QKp4UmQSahjBQDoqGcNjI4zYs3VPVjc8-j6PWgNM08bAZ6mKJB24MjLKdxjiL3kNicY008boVdw6V7lJty5bi_DpNCp8_jTrt0Caa6sVeTU/s1600/End+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpYFimf8nF3T5LLLqxYl-Y_HdqgjhCi0p8QKp4UmQSahjBQDoqGcNjI4zYs3VPVjc8-j6PWgNM08bAZ6mKJB24MjLKdxjiL3kNicY008boVdw6V7lJty5bi_DpNCp8_jTrt0Caa6sVeTU/s1600/End+2.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A sleeveless dress should have bra strap holders that prevent a bra strap from showing outside the dress. Attach the female portion of a snap to the shoulder seam of the facing by hand.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEippBcEfDkp9IcYJy-cmnJ1UnOQRfHHipq6V0uM1dsECPZU0iAalrD9LmZ69LuutFA7vqteyNZ9G62Hs9YqfnJdyHaBeLWPQIIfeMoHIBbspw3DJ5kAyWn_qcHCedXfFwOkqJv5PsoNio4/s1600/End+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEippBcEfDkp9IcYJy-cmnJ1UnOQRfHHipq6V0uM1dsECPZU0iAalrD9LmZ69LuutFA7vqteyNZ9G62Hs9YqfnJdyHaBeLWPQIIfeMoHIBbspw3DJ5kAyWn_qcHCedXfFwOkqJv5PsoNio4/s1600/End+3.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Attach the male portion of a snap to either a self-fabric scrap or, in this case, a strip of cotton stay tape.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAFz8RTGCLpg_DhZn28VOruUOMMnviknlodw0a5iNITBbdqEOH1513aGFv1FO4OGAmfy1CSVW7KK3MXsV_xVekffeqwX3YYxJoNYCl18BTWmx8Za1uJdV7yXMZUqS9fn4YE7L3rXx9MZw/s1600/End+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAFz8RTGCLpg_DhZn28VOruUOMMnviknlodw0a5iNITBbdqEOH1513aGFv1FO4OGAmfy1CSVW7KK3MXsV_xVekffeqwX3YYxJoNYCl18BTWmx8Za1uJdV7yXMZUqS9fn4YE7L3rXx9MZw/s1600/End+4.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Attach the cotton stay tape to the facing shoulder seam, and close the snap</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Now just press, making sure all seam allowances are pressed in the correct directions and the garment body is without wrinkles. Place the dress on a hanger. Finished!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyraDcW8iVGalYFKWULKbE6vdpEXp78yq9LfdFvFgOKZejWxgssrIlgoC1UprqInOXKFhcK_t3u7AQO3GVTCFwUOLGkuiQQOLj_h8oAR4hQyzCJ6fPhnikbIiwc-YFkT9nKsLJpqiiZwU/s1600/Denim+Dress+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyraDcW8iVGalYFKWULKbE6vdpEXp78yq9LfdFvFgOKZejWxgssrIlgoC1UprqInOXKFhcK_t3u7AQO3GVTCFwUOLGkuiQQOLj_h8oAR4hQyzCJ6fPhnikbIiwc-YFkT9nKsLJpqiiZwU/s640/Denim+Dress+3.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-30881718753422844692015-02-16T16:10:00.001-06:002015-02-17T21:29:52.040-06:00Simplicity 1277 Garment Construction, Part Two of Three<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">My students at College of DuPage are sewing dress Simplicity 1277. This is the fourth post relating to construction of the dress. See "Labels" section on right column of Home page for links to the other posts. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><b>Step 6 Front Pocket Work</b></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdmVX-ZVN2Itr8JhhmJwNttTvuob5OW0X9YqU3Nsvu2_fvDpOON32_nlr1Sca-3AtR2zgOwvFkYz9vqfv634lsdQDJ4faVt3mN5YvzB9K47OT8tX411YgeWrvAoYH3KO4hE329z35qF4g/s1600/P+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdmVX-ZVN2Itr8JhhmJwNttTvuob5OW0X9YqU3Nsvu2_fvDpOON32_nlr1Sca-3AtR2zgOwvFkYz9vqfv634lsdQDJ4faVt3mN5YvzB9K47OT8tX411YgeWrvAoYH3KO4hE329z35qF4g/s1600/P+1.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Stitch Pocket to Skirt Front between circles. Press pocket up</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgthqfU_ev03eGpY2eOVyjYZxRvmh6K1w45FXXVWWV43iJXTP9kFyD8qyWGYjBDGzzv5rR1BGjHo4uZCUfA0HzlHwhzoN-AqGebefRcSxXzyFKZImrIOk_L0nKxzDBABsIEY6bwfrhtBQ4/s1600/P+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgthqfU_ev03eGpY2eOVyjYZxRvmh6K1w45FXXVWWV43iJXTP9kFyD8qyWGYjBDGzzv5rR1BGjHo4uZCUfA0HzlHwhzoN-AqGebefRcSxXzyFKZImrIOk_L0nKxzDBABsIEY6bwfrhtBQ4/s1600/P+2.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pin Bodice Front to Skirt Front</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdnc0tRjiboUPjTSj9LWAdw6c5-OIjbDzdlnEr5nRMT8a43pW4c-ZqRMTDCTC-87YLf7DfWZnHRbwssn9ClgkRv7R4Hrw90-IM504HWKfG1rc6rJsH4YsZwO0eUVHYhDgGrnmSWpZzZgY/s1600/P+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdnc0tRjiboUPjTSj9LWAdw6c5-OIjbDzdlnEr5nRMT8a43pW4c-ZqRMTDCTC-87YLf7DfWZnHRbwssn9ClgkRv7R4Hrw90-IM504HWKfG1rc6rJsH4YsZwO0eUVHYhDgGrnmSWpZzZgY/s1600/P+3.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">View of pins from other side</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8mBC5fKoyY3GUZeGEvQbX3FmnQgfODs6slBrBkArAT2clWVZ5BsNgbXn7PaVgZolLTnlsoqKIMUWVQ1x5nyPYQgHZFI_H2ufgW8XBl5jux_h0tz9uHp0oQ-HiQwdz9Eo-w9I0FREtK0E/s1600/Pocket+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8mBC5fKoyY3GUZeGEvQbX3FmnQgfODs6slBrBkArAT2clWVZ5BsNgbXn7PaVgZolLTnlsoqKIMUWVQ1x5nyPYQgHZFI_H2ufgW8XBl5jux_h0tz9uHp0oQ-HiQwdz9Eo-w9I0FREtK0E/s1600/Pocket+1.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Stitch Skirt Front to Bodice Side Front below pocket opening</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBUx8z49eXHTWYSC6mYP00A1orrGsJjIRjKHDsWUD5gEarhpvdcGqN3Yo3H2Vy8wRrH0A5EJMRbCAscOR5zEwZNb0ZhbWB19lW_q5a2nbRJCMY620dDeO6rfLAecWzLZzvjeLa3PhyWBI/s1600/Pocket+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBUx8z49eXHTWYSC6mYP00A1orrGsJjIRjKHDsWUD5gEarhpvdcGqN3Yo3H2Vy8wRrH0A5EJMRbCAscOR5zEwZNb0ZhbWB19lW_q5a2nbRJCMY620dDeO6rfLAecWzLZzvjeLa3PhyWBI/s1600/Pocket+2.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Stitch Skirt Front to Bodice Side Front above pocket opening to circle at waist</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFTwjhcXIimNJi2RI53Tt66hTHmuHx2CgbcbiZgmUUfKLWBpusXlbykyWdRl3DoHJ4FwWqZMh7ZionJgN0XDko8_EOEIPFyduhxVoxzDIMSPkxb_gHDWr4g-f4_zRL9og2Mt5AQtKa6_0/s1600/Pocket+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFTwjhcXIimNJi2RI53Tt66hTHmuHx2CgbcbiZgmUUfKLWBpusXlbykyWdRl3DoHJ4FwWqZMh7ZionJgN0XDko8_EOEIPFyduhxVoxzDIMSPkxb_gHDWr4g-f4_zRL9og2Mt5AQtKa6_0/s1600/Pocket+3.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Next we need to stitch the pocket edges together, keeping the skirt seam allowances free</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJnnAGv_LJv3OwAEySB9HFfkUjBVoeVXRx_XuTdgg_QmGzg9KApUfPAjn70P32MAPfCjUyxDO-vg8sgqfP2H8mVKStE6Xzq_vBE560_QI4-pyBwGw6c1HjZpropQ9Fd0a_jy16zNTEDjQ/s1600/Pocket+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJnnAGv_LJv3OwAEySB9HFfkUjBVoeVXRx_XuTdgg_QmGzg9KApUfPAjn70P32MAPfCjUyxDO-vg8sgqfP2H8mVKStE6Xzq_vBE560_QI4-pyBwGw6c1HjZpropQ9Fd0a_jy16zNTEDjQ/s1600/Pocket+4.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pocket edges have been stitched, and seam allowances of skirt are free of pocket</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPRsXdGM-i9E6oEkSqF8vT21RQHWFk8yFtPkb3Dxx-S1E-8b4U3cl-fKVWy9vNFnwbtKaxEemZOP2oMRfNzu2gk5RjTTH1K8FCHgOT7LYooqWxXGk4OcFEGz5NOksIiFbWYstgoULsbd0/s1600/Pocket+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPRsXdGM-i9E6oEkSqF8vT21RQHWFk8yFtPkb3Dxx-S1E-8b4U3cl-fKVWy9vNFnwbtKaxEemZOP2oMRfNzu2gk5RjTTH1K8FCHgOT7LYooqWxXGk4OcFEGz5NOksIiFbWYstgoULsbd0/s1600/Pocket+5.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">View of stitching that connects pocket to skirt from wrong side of skirt</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh7IC639lVnF8j4bRnzeW46g9ovH3BLtoH988WZwrKfitU5GMdgt7KZ_fo_HHPQN6o6tGFiyQyw0laSlXBdsF05dcEp0F58iSlBc2lqf8czkSA3-w6PXKP09xAIeEdn7koZGXofy0rBCs/s1600/Pocket+6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh7IC639lVnF8j4bRnzeW46g9ovH3BLtoH988WZwrKfitU5GMdgt7KZ_fo_HHPQN6o6tGFiyQyw0laSlXBdsF05dcEp0F58iSlBc2lqf8czkSA3-w6PXKP09xAIeEdn7koZGXofy0rBCs/s1600/Pocket+6.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">View of stitching from right side of skirt; no holes or overlapping stitches where the seams connect</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6CiIfCc0FNsYiT7YvfqKV3ZB8PEKE3JQmQMS7T8v0O31Wz6-XTkUKYH3ig-tM6jk4P8TgYFIPtNQgfvTeP2OlKgPJrtIgLzUlwd16dhitXv43FnrjSxhUSIPPUTuHUlFXIM0MrxXpWeQ/s1600/Top+of+frt+inset.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6CiIfCc0FNsYiT7YvfqKV3ZB8PEKE3JQmQMS7T8v0O31Wz6-XTkUKYH3ig-tM6jk4P8TgYFIPtNQgfvTeP2OlKgPJrtIgLzUlwd16dhitXv43FnrjSxhUSIPPUTuHUlFXIM0MrxXpWeQ/s1600/Top+of+frt+inset.JPG" /></a></div>
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Next we connect the upper portion of the Bodice Side Front to the Bodice Front; this is similar to how you stitched the Bodice Back to the Bodice Side Back. Press seam allowances toward garment body.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiro3SheXwc9Y7fV1T3Q_HvDzZHBgZI0yU4ItCPyMI7fWrQM-wAVWK8eK6wtIYhvT_-ko3oS189umUl7r9AH3vxV7aeus3wHJF9ScuHoKXzJXGMwpD7tK36Lrx1Xq7wbMarK1q-_sLvPao/s1600/Bind+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiro3SheXwc9Y7fV1T3Q_HvDzZHBgZI0yU4ItCPyMI7fWrQM-wAVWK8eK6wtIYhvT_-ko3oS189umUl7r9AH3vxV7aeus3wHJF9ScuHoKXzJXGMwpD7tK36Lrx1Xq7wbMarK1q-_sLvPao/s1600/Bind+1.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">View of garment front from right side</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhInxzRh_imqvtUP-yE4Ru7_b6u5GhDvMkwBv_CRuhETAEHfhi3b0Cv9MxzSWx_10iPHR5eArg20xy7Zs5KC78KT1hPIdqCmAY0Q5SLMO7ElaLhz_kpg5GUwWVbfvzkYRWvMZKhSWHmyLI/s1600/Bind+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhInxzRh_imqvtUP-yE4Ru7_b6u5GhDvMkwBv_CRuhETAEHfhi3b0Cv9MxzSWx_10iPHR5eArg20xy7Zs5KC78KT1hPIdqCmAY0Q5SLMO7ElaLhz_kpg5GUwWVbfvzkYRWvMZKhSWHmyLI/s1600/Bind+2.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Take 1/4" double fold bias tape to finish front seam allowances, or alternatively use the serger</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4R5KSgBliVvxOSMA7inDKBpTunIT05tO2Awz-ZqeQ7OpEWqOkcRf2Gv_GIX0VgYZWgDovdMZJrFKtVA9Jyw4WfgPMAsAZ7oUpehf1t7k7UpoLrqhED76vqEu7A8495NNB8iPDBUMdQOY/s1600/Bind+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4R5KSgBliVvxOSMA7inDKBpTunIT05tO2Awz-ZqeQ7OpEWqOkcRf2Gv_GIX0VgYZWgDovdMZJrFKtVA9Jyw4WfgPMAsAZ7oUpehf1t7k7UpoLrqhED76vqEu7A8495NNB8iPDBUMdQOY/s1600/Bind+3.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">To bind seam allowances, clip into corners 1/4" so they can be opened a bit</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKpHrzaSDT2NDaBFFoniI18qn5f7bZkz0AyPDFFjWkeAb58qyC2kNSw-iyz-h7s4HOkMWIrLIZS5z8Wo_7uOMudxbSzGln14d5eGk6yy3tZkRRsPU58BNqgmQl9HPvRgEc0wcTj0fOwZE/s1600/Bind+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKpHrzaSDT2NDaBFFoniI18qn5f7bZkz0AyPDFFjWkeAb58qyC2kNSw-iyz-h7s4HOkMWIrLIZS5z8Wo_7uOMudxbSzGln14d5eGk6yy3tZkRRsPU58BNqgmQl9HPvRgEc0wcTj0fOwZE/s1600/Bind+4.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">To turn a corner with binding, edge stitch to the corner, then lift up foot</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuuyp7-QabTCEFUKbYRjkGsUCY8VwdLwtbN6cmFLYmZCpZm8aPXn7fRNFy1pwnjppCD0EDFKpxL6pzWrn9lzkSg85olVuwKeuYbbBYmS0WPTTIIijhd5VDAaBm6RDpxwZ_421VxiXZIQg/s1600/Bind+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuuyp7-QabTCEFUKbYRjkGsUCY8VwdLwtbN6cmFLYmZCpZm8aPXn7fRNFy1pwnjppCD0EDFKpxL6pzWrn9lzkSg85olVuwKeuYbbBYmS0WPTTIIijhd5VDAaBm6RDpxwZ_421VxiXZIQg/s1600/Bind+5.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Fold binding under seam allowance, past corner, into place</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6qfC7Kd9fnAKYu9zebsD-6dE1jt2gJPJjMUnylbVugmGlR82BcTndstzmJQGqb0YX_yKVYOdxUna0GGsP1EGWp3WjhMWk1AoU6B3tzOe3aNmbbqIrxGD-BmVPGrHNqf8kOOo7_Jimphw/s1600/Bind+6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6qfC7Kd9fnAKYu9zebsD-6dE1jt2gJPJjMUnylbVugmGlR82BcTndstzmJQGqb0YX_yKVYOdxUna0GGsP1EGWp3WjhMWk1AoU6B3tzOe3aNmbbqIrxGD-BmVPGrHNqf8kOOo7_Jimphw/s1600/Bind+6.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lay top edge of binding in place and continue stitching down side</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheCjNS7K6uRH2arKGLhdUWO4pwIEEaYu0_THudNxrbDJq1gNUw3TyXlG6eR2TNKMU2OQXYI_V2HNx4MJiZs6imo-r_FQMe-FheHzpayVYYOj-KxOjvncl2r58XqhaixO4fNVybHr6ENOk/s1600/Bind+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheCjNS7K6uRH2arKGLhdUWO4pwIEEaYu0_THudNxrbDJq1gNUw3TyXlG6eR2TNKMU2OQXYI_V2HNx4MJiZs6imo-r_FQMe-FheHzpayVYYOj-KxOjvncl2r58XqhaixO4fNVybHr6ENOk/s1600/Bind+7.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">View of seam allowances with narrow binding. Don't get mad at me--this is harder to insert than it appears</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Step 7 Shoulder Seams</b></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju6V1WKhMS2h3Zy2R3h5iz-h8cgIhKOyxEblc7jMmbaTnAGDo7KX7iwqmAY2LUDT5CEP32yLuYYtYwdxEKtvBO_a2ZehsBiK5eyoJeo-YTJRafZ6ZegO-HKpNW-DVGhQgQ379rsAjp2vQ/s1600/Facing+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju6V1WKhMS2h3Zy2R3h5iz-h8cgIhKOyxEblc7jMmbaTnAGDo7KX7iwqmAY2LUDT5CEP32yLuYYtYwdxEKtvBO_a2ZehsBiK5eyoJeo-YTJRafZ6ZegO-HKpNW-DVGhQgQ379rsAjp2vQ/s1600/Facing+1.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Join facing shoulder seams in 5/8" seam allowance</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK5kprwqeOLsqTe11MeZal1z5WMbac97osblD4XlQymJYa0aFljphifPfZwfeZw_FUEq0RIenLZTmve4hj0e56pl6THSjyq8P4Wh6NoFqa9xZunQS5KQnulogeGZLrLT0ID7lZcZrF8JQ/s1600/Facing+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK5kprwqeOLsqTe11MeZal1z5WMbac97osblD4XlQymJYa0aFljphifPfZwfeZw_FUEq0RIenLZTmve4hj0e56pl6THSjyq8P4Wh6NoFqa9xZunQS5KQnulogeGZLrLT0ID7lZcZrF8JQ/s1600/Facing+2.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Press seam allowances open, trim to 1/4"</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Serge lower edges of front and back facings to clean finish.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW80KhlOdADDzhe4yQAuJb0XCcYtEYAz2WF76xg8ogM_vho6KiBCvdwJHZ1jtQirLMhZzJMJqs2C9cBSLuWV6Gq1Bl6fXatvkIbtBUssV6oQ6qRAlLkTz2fk1VEsvEhtphsvgJVzJ7xZc/s1600/Sh+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW80KhlOdADDzhe4yQAuJb0XCcYtEYAz2WF76xg8ogM_vho6KiBCvdwJHZ1jtQirLMhZzJMJqs2C9cBSLuWV6Gq1Bl6fXatvkIbtBUssV6oQ6qRAlLkTz2fk1VEsvEhtphsvgJVzJ7xZc/s1600/Sh+1.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Stitch garment front to garment back at shoulders in a flat fell seam. The first step is stitch panels wrong sides together.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpHGI_tSq2Q3fKqpKFAyDxL8wjS2rcuULYgtdh3H28hXofycnepiYkhluzLKAftGAhkQ5XvNiaGG854Nr0mVfDwRQVVqEpUtJZl0iNVYKsYhy-TirMULQazCI7aGqFSZST5DAkCjRuN8U/s1600/Sh+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpHGI_tSq2Q3fKqpKFAyDxL8wjS2rcuULYgtdh3H28hXofycnepiYkhluzLKAftGAhkQ5XvNiaGG854Nr0mVfDwRQVVqEpUtJZl0iNVYKsYhy-TirMULQazCI7aGqFSZST5DAkCjRuN8U/s1600/Sh+2.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Press both seam allowances towards garment front</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWNLH7G8yxiliCgfLqL8cxF0VPUrTVXEW5nGk3w1NtVB-zBuRv8d6dcWGv4-CXqRe9looNWGhfGw5wlnMXrbFCoASkd6BH1NnllGuwkTKjIKW59taNyIb5pCtrCvbzaaQ6ShhcjDu6T5c/s1600/Sh+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWNLH7G8yxiliCgfLqL8cxF0VPUrTVXEW5nGk3w1NtVB-zBuRv8d6dcWGv4-CXqRe9looNWGhfGw5wlnMXrbFCoASkd6BH1NnllGuwkTKjIKW59taNyIb5pCtrCvbzaaQ6ShhcjDu6T5c/s1600/Sh+3.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Trim front seam allowance to 1/4"; do not trim back seam allowance</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj91noRF3TlDdQh3TaOI0J6QS9QyYKXX2pklzwTtffkovAWj50zDBfTiy0cTDt6NLTLxTrhhVIK23Dai-gvBULOIlOLBHnrQEOObSnoJcAG9In3WkxrFip_VcJihAerz7mRloMfRzihZWs/s1600/Sh+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj91noRF3TlDdQh3TaOI0J6QS9QyYKXX2pklzwTtffkovAWj50zDBfTiy0cTDt6NLTLxTrhhVIK23Dai-gvBULOIlOLBHnrQEOObSnoJcAG9In3WkxrFip_VcJihAerz7mRloMfRzihZWs/s1600/Sh+4.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Fold back seam allowance in half and pin to garment front</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6L48YdtGyN9Rfp1jclaoRrkzzPR9XJTPhdI8ExH9Y5Q0kgqrg74T5YOP12glvvUdptzAneHnCRGsFkI5tuOivi0PutCEHedZ_BBoiii1IwQ_V_Idv1dItdj33lSCdmijyUTYw88nCD_Y/s1600/Sh+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6L48YdtGyN9Rfp1jclaoRrkzzPR9XJTPhdI8ExH9Y5Q0kgqrg74T5YOP12glvvUdptzAneHnCRGsFkI5tuOivi0PutCEHedZ_BBoiii1IwQ_V_Idv1dItdj33lSCdmijyUTYw88nCD_Y/s1600/Sh+5.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Stitch very close to fold through all layers including garment front</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXUblqiuAzUwz4wZ0RW0upvICQz-dq-rpIgry-a4wZj6jMRl_GqG6lGPj5O-C0NQSs_JzXglpJliZ_7kBjkX7tTswzKoL9xCFSze0EgHoIGPfM6HtZAh8vwr9pw-hsoS_btnCDCHCFyEc/s1600/Sh+6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXUblqiuAzUwz4wZ0RW0upvICQz-dq-rpIgry-a4wZj6jMRl_GqG6lGPj5O-C0NQSs_JzXglpJliZ_7kBjkX7tTswzKoL9xCFSze0EgHoIGPfM6HtZAh8vwr9pw-hsoS_btnCDCHCFyEc/s1600/Sh+6.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">View of shoulder seam from right side of garment</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Step 8 Neckline Work</b></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqfwb4LF0EU0Rwlo-4cEckfHOMTbzuWPvG_39RFprlAfC47mwqOx7wsoTRwi_vHUnxhB8_QDmlkvuMLgIBKOnhSHrObDKfZJStK1aMGp6pNXyytCOBhMIZnVOJ6RCd48lkRJMOn2mGsQ8/s1600/Neck+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqfwb4LF0EU0Rwlo-4cEckfHOMTbzuWPvG_39RFprlAfC47mwqOx7wsoTRwi_vHUnxhB8_QDmlkvuMLgIBKOnhSHrObDKfZJStK1aMGp6pNXyytCOBhMIZnVOJ6RCd48lkRJMOn2mGsQ8/s1600/Neck+1.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lay garment on table right side up</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnTWwEHOVU7wP7yNsW193pxvKhmjp-CAi_KnMebfhh3DqPZObhrFVwZcsrNCRNK_8xJec3MjImGogOkuESCT2m4c3BQFhBGw3pkSJoLwWeBGAXT_WLzgueVRdMB4s9NvPpbMq7h26DSL8/s1600/Neck+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnTWwEHOVU7wP7yNsW193pxvKhmjp-CAi_KnMebfhh3DqPZObhrFVwZcsrNCRNK_8xJec3MjImGogOkuESCT2m4c3BQFhBGw3pkSJoLwWeBGAXT_WLzgueVRdMB4s9NvPpbMq7h26DSL8/s1600/Neck+2.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lay facing unit on top of garment, right sides together. Pin neck edges, matching shoulder seams at circles.</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGIhTkuBkDsL-hELDFM4oGXMV9yvivnob9RUkYXjzZnjf1p5BP0nIJ8zjskBO9-btgcBwq8Y0xZ3GBiZ6IJqNEb8AElRgUxjt7mCHnFA-5c9InnOGxxrpyb7k9Bm-smMTrAbgdSjFwTMM/s1600/Neck+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGIhTkuBkDsL-hELDFM4oGXMV9yvivnob9RUkYXjzZnjf1p5BP0nIJ8zjskBO9-btgcBwq8Y0xZ3GBiZ6IJqNEb8AElRgUxjt7mCHnFA-5c9InnOGxxrpyb7k9Bm-smMTrAbgdSjFwTMM/s1600/Neck+3.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Stitch neckline directionally; stitch from center back to center front</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4yhGN3QqOmkbnOSVjr6K0b1NqvRaUIPB7_51E41MKp2HQ_Wp2KkUJGnfKdLn63fevVI0_wLVoDDbvteVYaaeYddATk3ANrMgBoPMjF3I3bHhDbmwjA3pHJWu6dC5A9AQStmJoZks5U8k/s1600/Neck+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4yhGN3QqOmkbnOSVjr6K0b1NqvRaUIPB7_51E41MKp2HQ_Wp2KkUJGnfKdLn63fevVI0_wLVoDDbvteVYaaeYddATk3ANrMgBoPMjF3I3bHhDbmwjA3pHJWu6dC5A9AQStmJoZks5U8k/s1600/Neck+4.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Stitch other side of neckline from center back to center front, overlapping stitching 1" at center front. Make sure you have attractive curves at the two shoulder seams that match each other in shape</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDxIp9uVd9CUzVnfX0N1a1ZuT_eecRHDwsjQlWuBGLwLUZoJqtukcQDd7K46kyn6cuECf98-AZ9Hrf0LhLZ0N46ArF8RtRygzZmPCKkPoZIEeasqYQYUqiHZDH5VmTuXcrtnAN1l6Cwuw/s1600/Neck+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDxIp9uVd9CUzVnfX0N1a1ZuT_eecRHDwsjQlWuBGLwLUZoJqtukcQDd7K46kyn6cuECf98-AZ9Hrf0LhLZ0N46ArF8RtRygzZmPCKkPoZIEeasqYQYUqiHZDH5VmTuXcrtnAN1l6Cwuw/s1600/Neck+5.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Clip dress seam allowances, at an angle, to the stay-stitching, concentrating your clips around the curves; straight areas need less clipping</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNg905BLUPdnO0_OeOOXP9pIwR2weQ2xHQ-bcaXASllQ0BhtxC0WoTMODcT9rteMHU37M0mJ9I1oLqBKl00hvd8uH43dCEe5vTSpFvAQ7GTOc4Yr-m0b7zlDfeLz7QFFZw8NCLSgJ7ooE/s1600/Neck+6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNg905BLUPdnO0_OeOOXP9pIwR2weQ2xHQ-bcaXASllQ0BhtxC0WoTMODcT9rteMHU37M0mJ9I1oLqBKl00hvd8uH43dCEe5vTSpFvAQ7GTOc4Yr-m0b7zlDfeLz7QFFZw8NCLSgJ7ooE/s1600/Neck+6.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">View of clipped garment seam allowance</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8GQMr4RHqVP9uxuwX9cPfek-UsRmgGp9kFZaxmaByRo2qc0XKrfk5D6BK_-4AtRv4Zt1yxGOM1dyG5NRFC0GnXzGDAxAt-RA3sIciqag-0sBkEQg-09w4pgjmKkH-KRyaA8j22Z_GTI4/s1600/Neck+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8GQMr4RHqVP9uxuwX9cPfek-UsRmgGp9kFZaxmaByRo2qc0XKrfk5D6BK_-4AtRv4Zt1yxGOM1dyG5NRFC0GnXzGDAxAt-RA3sIciqag-0sBkEQg-09w4pgjmKkH-KRyaA8j22Z_GTI4/s1600/Neck+7.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Clip facing seam allowances at opposite angle of garment clippings, concentrating clippings at curves</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb5UhHtypZMPCBMMOPzOaR7BkJKRfzkJhNzU_ifE1tzvzonarMNtXtC9ajkYQXGYBxeLd36yWNsu0f6mOh8gI4QWIwawD0eI0QXy0crTdhWapb6wHPVC5tWKK5DixpFXMquEKkEe86a8E/s1600/Neck+8.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb5UhHtypZMPCBMMOPzOaR7BkJKRfzkJhNzU_ifE1tzvzonarMNtXtC9ajkYQXGYBxeLd36yWNsu0f6mOh8gI4QWIwawD0eI0QXy0crTdhWapb6wHPVC5tWKK5DixpFXMquEKkEe86a8E/s1600/Neck+8.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Note how seam allowances are clipped differently; facing is clipped at one angle, garment at the other. Clipping this way will eliminate spaces when the facing seam allowance is pulled open.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnZ1cuC_et9VJ4-n5OGpTv3VjgDWETAALXN6rhF4JjZrlm4DxmBzGvlxzMKLYaUX5yEF1H4XAQaAyF5VmTmsCPL4D1jSs2vpSbUIovhskRRZuzws69nwsUxaJqZ_lUjx5acFVusM6JLCQ/s1600/Neck+9.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnZ1cuC_et9VJ4-n5OGpTv3VjgDWETAALXN6rhF4JjZrlm4DxmBzGvlxzMKLYaUX5yEF1H4XAQaAyF5VmTmsCPL4D1jSs2vpSbUIovhskRRZuzws69nwsUxaJqZ_lUjx5acFVusM6JLCQ/s1600/Neck+9.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The clipping enables the neckline to open almost to a straight line</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b> </b></span>Next we will press the neckline seam allowances to the facing, under-stitch, trim, and press neck edges in place.Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9167624011286589195.post-68569964949732824732015-02-13T12:01:00.007-06:002015-02-13T12:01:55.038-06:00Couture Wool Lace Dress Part One<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilvOtfV-55Vq4Szi9EbKUL-Gymt8vwA_nudE3qX3ueEJ-H4G6pl8N5JsbShQPsTUceZiaYM1u7OZZp1qqOdfnywQVhlbyj7Bl-4eytrPwaEv8hXf-kPHl8H0nr1NqPD_INKYqALKNeWcg/s1600/Burda+101+10+140002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilvOtfV-55Vq4Szi9EbKUL-Gymt8vwA_nudE3qX3ueEJ-H4G6pl8N5JsbShQPsTUceZiaYM1u7OZZp1qqOdfnywQVhlbyj7Bl-4eytrPwaEv8hXf-kPHl8H0nr1NqPD_INKYqALKNeWcg/s1600/Burda+101+10+140002.jpg" height="400" width="296" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Burda Style #101B, October 2014</span></td></tr>
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I haven't sewn a couture dress for months, so it is time to make one. I love the design lines of the above dress, so that will serve as the preliminary pattern. This dress is street length so it is suitable for wear during the day, unlike many of my couture garments. My fabrics are cream wool lace and a cream/silver/gray/beige raw silk-type suiting, both purchased from <a href="http://emmaonesock.com/">http://emmaonesock.com/</a> one year ago.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1eVhiQWzQM1dzVLWn62f-L3SYh2Oo9sBmGxrGA9YMa3m3D2fH7ZjYkLli_iZk2pSy1MYdq5pHRVcLMXXbnQz8rauDkMj_WGdladGzqG3gl51O9Inl-tOwBP89luXZzKQ7PSgZM2BsbIU/s1600/wool+lace.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1eVhiQWzQM1dzVLWn62f-L3SYh2Oo9sBmGxrGA9YMa3m3D2fH7ZjYkLli_iZk2pSy1MYdq5pHRVcLMXXbnQz8rauDkMj_WGdladGzqG3gl51O9Inl-tOwBP89luXZzKQ7PSgZM2BsbIU/s1600/wool+lace.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">wool lace</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUQQt0Fh_ArW426DMaESCLU4Hl8xmR4hMCzKK1Ak1BghkWc5ngYQ101XsiK5H67YxSZNmESs2F4f3Uo4cwnWLzUN9ulYyVLN1wVlEHmYJWR7ugYsqheskcinZw_eIN-rtHADHE0V8EQ_I/s1600/raw+silk+suiting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUQQt0Fh_ArW426DMaESCLU4Hl8xmR4hMCzKK1Ak1BghkWc5ngYQ101XsiK5H67YxSZNmESs2F4f3Uo4cwnWLzUN9ulYyVLN1wVlEHmYJWR7ugYsqheskcinZw_eIN-rtHADHE0V8EQ_I/s1600/raw+silk+suiting.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">beige, gray, silver, brown raw silk suiting</span></td></tr>
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Below is the muslin front. Fit appears good, but there is a length issue--the bodice is too long from shoulder to fullest part of the bust.<br />
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The side view makes the length issue more apparent.<br />
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Back view is good. You can see the bodice length issue on the right side at the waist, but it is not easy to see.<br />
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I could feel the bodice length issue when I wore the muslin. Below you see fabric folds across my midriff. You also see that the waist seam is a bit too low. There is excess length, not excess circumference.<br />
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I will fold out 1" of length from the bodice front and bodice back, just above the full bust.<br />
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The second fit correction is for the bend of the sleeve. My arms are just regular arms to me, but their natural position is less straight than Burda patterns expect, so I will reshape the middle sleeve panel. <br />
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The Burda Style monthly pattern magazine offers cryptic assembly instructions. Below is a sample of the information provided for the dress I am sewing. The directions are not couture construction, so I will not use them much.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ge-tD0pBVI9DlK_oz4vjUrjc4OySn0pyLWO_ov6Ca4EkhH3_wEsZQgnPBiaviz86XlEBVwbepGVKrtEpc_ywvocy2XZ6SidXqyoLOtL3bnCeldBLJ-fYG1y23NrkGEGYRqUK6IOozaM/s1600/Lace+Dress+Sketch0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ge-tD0pBVI9DlK_oz4vjUrjc4OySn0pyLWO_ov6Ca4EkhH3_wEsZQgnPBiaviz86XlEBVwbepGVKrtEpc_ywvocy2XZ6SidXqyoLOtL3bnCeldBLJ-fYG1y23NrkGEGYRqUK6IOozaM/s1600/Lace+Dress+Sketch0001.jpg" height="640" width="331" /></a></div>
Burda patterns are traced off of a master sheet Below is a view of a master sheet. The pattern lines for many different styles overlap. After a while, your eyes grow accustomed to seeing the master sheet, and it's not so difficult to find the lines you need.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnFbh_YgQWMoOw8znuyc-3iRl77DMTdu0l0Fens032xrfs7RcoK8bGLExTncFDnehU7z-LVgXSA0dVllS1p4KmmGh4UaLFtLE7mVMb87SZKAw632yYmgp_JQXQt6Dm8NPIM3B2V_KaSrc/s1600/Burda+tissue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnFbh_YgQWMoOw8znuyc-3iRl77DMTdu0l0Fens032xrfs7RcoK8bGLExTncFDnehU7z-LVgXSA0dVllS1p4KmmGh4UaLFtLE7mVMb87SZKAw632yYmgp_JQXQt6Dm8NPIM3B2V_KaSrc/s1600/Burda+tissue.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
Tracing paper is laid over the master sheet, and I use a fine-line marker and ruler to trace off each pattern piece. The outer edges are stitch lines; there are no seam allowances or hem allowances.<br />
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To assemble a muslin, I add 1/2" seam allowances. If I thought the test garment would be too small, I would use larger seam allowances. When I cut from the actual fashion fabric, I will use 1" seam allowances.<br />
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Below is muslin with the stitching lines, grain lines, and match points traced on. I find large sheets of dressmaker's carbon paper to be accurate and easy to use. Susan Khalje sells it at <a href="http://susankhalje.com/shop/waxed-tracing-paper/">http://susankhalje.com/shop/waxed-tracing-paper/</a>.<br />
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I will correct my pattern for fit issues, and then I will cut and mark the fashion fabric. My plan is to show you pictures of the entire construction process and have a discussion about various construction options.Ann Vidovichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07634116896797194430noreply@blogger.com6