Thursday, April 11, 2013

I love These Jacket Pockets

Finally the beige/pastel silk tussah Marfy 2762 jacket is finished.  My favorite design detail has got to be the front pockets.  I have never placed pockets to the hem line before, and I like the look.  The pockets and flaps cover the side front princess seam and this placement visually slims the wearer's hip line.  I machine stitched the pocket to the completed jacket before the lining was stitched to the jacket hem.  The silk tussah has thick rough yarns so the machine stitching is nearly invisible.  If the stitching were visible, I would have attached the pockets with a machine blind hem stitch.

I marvel at the value of creating a muslin to fit correct a pattern.  Look at the uncorrected muslin photo compared to the finished jacket!
The muslin is baggy in the bust and waist, tight across the abdomen, and there is insufficient room for shoulder pads.  In addition, the sleeve detail appears to be impossible to sew neatly.
Beautifully rounded, strong shoulders thanks to raglan shoulder pads.  The zipper closure is convenient and unobtrusive.  The pockets mold to the hips without adding bulk.
Nice smooth fit in back.  If I have to choose, I would prefer to wear a garment that is too big rather than too small.  Tight garments highlight physical imperfections and are uncomfortable. 
I chose a fuchsia charmeuse lining for the jacket to remind me of summer.  I had the fabric in my stash, and the jacket yarn and interfacing are so thick the fuchsia color will not show through the jacket.  The sleeve is lined to the edge to keep the rough tussah yarns off my skin.  The sleeve lining does not show when I wear the jacket, but if it did that would be okay. 

One noteworthy construction detail is how I turned the collar corners.  A common method is to cut diagonally across the seam allowances so there is very little fabric at the corner point.  I only use this method when I cannot achieve a good result by folding the seam allowances.  First I fold the upper collar seam allowances to the collar in a neat square.  I can tack them in place or hold them in place.
Next I fold the under collar seam allowances to the collar, and tack or hold them in place.
I grasp the folded corner and turn the collar corner right side out.  I might poke the corner with a plastic point turner but this is usually unnecesary.  I compare the two collar corners to verify them match in shape and angle.  Then I press the collar and top stitch. 

Please read the complete Marfy 2762 Jacket Tutorial for construction details.


  1. Beautiful work. Thank you for sharing.

  2. Another great jacket and I love the little pop of color from the lining. Beautiful!