Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Marfy 2762 Jacket is Complete

Three months after the project began, the Marfy 2762 jacket is finally finished.  Fit is good, the design lines flatter me, and the construction techniques were well executed, so the jacket should last for many years.  I didn't intend to take three months to complete the project, but life events slowed me down.  It is hard to maintain interest in a project over a long period of time so I try to avoid delays when possible.
Fabric lines used to full advantage; thick yarn band draws attention to waist
The broad shoulder lines impart strength to the wearer, and the width of the hips appears narrow.  I am not narrow hipped!  Before you read the final construction highlights, keep in mind I stitched the black jacket largely by hand, and the beige jacket by machine.  If you don't like to hand sew, you might read the following post and be discouraged by the volume of hand work.  Next week I will finish the beige jacket construction by machine which is much quicker.  The entire construction process for both jackets is presented if you click on "Marfy 2762 Jacket" in the upper right corner of the blog Home page.  Thanks for reading!

Here are a few interesting points about the final construction steps:

1.  Fur hooks are used to close the jacket front. I used fur hooks rather than metal hooks as they are matte rather than shiny, and are large enough to encase the center front edges.  They are also strong.  I buried the hooks between the jacket front and the front facing.
fur "eyes" on left side
The hooks encase the folded edge at center front.
fur "hooks" on right side
2.  I hand tacked the neck edge of the upper collar to the under collar.  This was done before the center front edges were finished.  I want a nice roll to the collar, but I don't want the upper collar and under collar moving separately.
hand stitch through neck edges of collars
3.  The pocket flap and pocket pattern pieces need to be redrawn on oak tag or sturdy paper, corrected the curves so the left side matches the right in length and shape.  Use a curved ruler, glass or other gadget to create desired shape.
Pocket flap template is laid on fashion fabric to improve accuracy
I lined the pocket and pocket flap to the edge with silk charmeuse.  These pieces are also underlined in silk organza.  I hand tacked the lining in place, then hand tacked the pocket and pocket flap in place on the jacket front.
4.  Consider placing the pocket at the hem.  This is the first time I have had the pocket bottom along the hemline, and I think the result is flattering.
pocket hand tacked to jacket, then flap is added 1/2" above
5.  Prevent pocket sag by adding a snap to the pocket middle.
Please visit the tutorial for further information and photos.


  1. Absolutely GORGEOUS! You did a terrific job with the construction, esp. matching the stripes. Your detail are fabulous, I like your pockets. The pockets are one thing that I chickened out on.

  2. I can't wait to see the silk tussah one finished. This is a perfect jacket/top for summer, I wear mine almost every week.
    Do you feel that the belt pieces are too long? Your fabric is nice and drapey so they lay nicely, mine is cotton sateen and they are a little awkward unless I tie them in a bow.

  3. That's a lovely jacket. I'm sure you're glad you persisted in getting it done. Nothing quick and easy would have been this gorgeous. Well done.