Sunday, February 24, 2013

Unique Jacket Sleeve Vent

I enjoy sharing photos and articles about successful garments I have created.  Experience and creative problem solving help me to usually succeed in my work.  Occasionally my projects fail or disappoint me.  This jacket is a success in spite of my numerous errors.  I started work on this wool boucle jacket January 2012.  Spring arrived so the unfinished project was put aside in favor of garments I could wear in warm weather.  Recently I discovered the project in a box on the sewing room closet floor.  While I didn't really want to work on the project, the fabric is beautiful and would likely go to waste if another year passed.

My first mistake was not writing notes during planning and construction last year.  It would have been faster sewing if I could recall the interfacing plan, fit and construction issues.  Instead I had to recreate them while not really in the mood to make an extra effort.  The result is that the jacket front is rather soft and unstructured. The hem allowances, collars and lapels are interfaced, but the interfacing is too lightweight. The front facing and upper back need interfacing.

vent prior to buttons

Instead of a traditional sleeve vent, I have a two piece sleeve with a fabric rectangle inserted into the back seam and pressed to the sleeve front.  It's simple to construct and interesting to the eye.  Buttons hold the sleeve vent in place.  There are also three elbow darts which shape the arm nicely.
mismatched lining color
 Another series of mistakes occurred because I thought the jacket was dark navy, gold, and white.  I stitched a medium blue silk charmeuse lining into the jacket, and for the under collar.  The under collar is interfaced (as well as the upper collar) given my bulk reducing fabric choice.  The problem is that the jacket now appears to be black rather than navy.  The lining color is rather unflattering. 

I love the finished jacket and will enjoy wearing it.  Not everything I make has to be my absolute best work, nor do I have the time to always make an extra effort.  The main point is I find joy in sew.

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