Marfy 2762 Jacket Construction

copper metallic threads, black sequins, thick black yarns

Construction of the Marfy 2762 jacket is well under way, and I am happy with the results.  For detailed instructions on creating the jacket, see the tutorial button in the upper right corner of the blog Home page.  Here are construction highlights that can also apply to other garments you choose to sew.


The jacket belt:  To create nice points in a bulky fabric, don't stitch a right angle at the point.  Instead stitch across for 1/4" or so to allow room for the seam allowances when you turn the garment section right side out.  For pressing and seam allowance grading, see the tutorial.

stitching the belt point

Top stitching along bulky edges:  The presser foot needs to be level.  When the presser foot is not level, shim the rear of the foot with a fabric scrap, ruler etc.

top stitch belt by "shimming" the corners

Improve necklines and armholes:  Leave seam allowances free above stitching lines at neckline and armhole.  Here I stitched a vertical seam on the jacket.  The seam allowances are not joined at the neckline.  The final neckline will be more accurate and lay in the intended shape.

reinforce seams at start and finish but do not distort neckline by stitching too high

Clipping to points:  I have clipped to within 1/4" of the back underarm point to complete a seam.  Eventually I will need to clip this point all the way to the stitching line.  I won't clip until I absolutely need to as handling the jacket can distort delicate points.

garment back underarm must be clipped completely to point, eventually

Finishing seam allowances:  I like to finish them even if a garment will be fully lined.  Here is the black jacket during construction.  The jacket fashion fabric is a loose weave, and the silk organza underlining will not prevent fashion fabric fraying.

Loose threads along seam allowances

I hand overcast the seam allowances to the underlining.  The stitches are 1/4" long, so the process is slow.  I probably spent two hours overcasting the seam allowances of this jacket.  If I don't overcast the edges, they will continue to fray during wear and visits to the cleaners.  The overcasting also holds the seam allowances firmly open during wear and cleanings.  The effort is worthwhile as the jacket is a wardrobe investment that could be worn for decades and passed on to family.  Hand overcasting is quite pleasant work.

hand overcast the seam allowances after trimming

The lower armhole:  Do not press seam allowances open.  Trim the seam allowances to 3/8".  Hand overcast the seam allowances together.  The lower armhole is stressed during wear and the overcasting will strength it.

sturdy underarm seam due to hand overcasting of seam allowances

Here is a photo of progress on the beige silk tussah jacket.  All vertical seams are sewn, and the under collar is attached.

Reds, pinks and blues on a beige ground

Next comes work on the upper collar, front facings, closure, pockets and then the lining.