Monday, March 4, 2013

Marfy 2762 Jacket Construction

copper metallic threads, black sequins, thick black yarns
Construction of the Marfy 2762 jacket is well under way, and I am happy with the results.  For detailed instructions on creating the jacket, see the tutorial button in the upper right corner of the blog Home page.  Here are construction highlights that can also apply to other garments you choose to sew.

The jacket belt:  To create nice points in a bulky fabric, don't stitch a right angle at the point.  Instead stitch across for 1/4" or so to allow room for the seam allowances when you turn the garment section right side out.  For pressing and seam allowance grading, see the tutorial.
stitching the belt point
Top stitching along bulky edges:  The presser foot needs to be level.  When the presser foot is not level, shim the rear of the foot with a fabric scrap, ruler etc.
top stitch belt by "shimming" the corners
Improve necklines and armholes:  Leave seam allowances free above stitching lines at neckline and armhole.  Here I stitched a vertical seam on the jacket.  The seam allowances are not joined at the neckline.  The final neckline will be more accurate and lay in the intended shape.
reinforce seams at start and finish but do not distort neckline by stitching too high
Clipping to points:  I have clipped to within 1/4" of the back underarm point to complete a seam.  Eventually I will need to clip this point all the way to the stitching line.  I won't clip until I absolutely need to as handling the jacket can distort delicate points.
garment back underarm must be clipped completely to point, eventually
Finishing seam allowances:  I like to finish them even if a garment will be fully lined.  Here is the black jacket during construction.  The jacket fashion fabric is a loose weave, and the silk organza underlining will not prevent fashion fabric fraying.
Loose threads along seam allowances
I hand overcast the seam allowances to the underlining.  The stitches are 1/4" long, so the process is slow.  I probably spent two hours overcasting the seam allowances of this jacket.  If I don't overcast the edges, they will continue to fray during wear and visits to the cleaners.  The overcasting also holds the seam allowances firmly open during wear and cleanings.  The effort is worthwhile as the jacket is a wardrobe investment that could be worn for decades and passed on to family.  Hand overcasting is quite pleasant work.
hand overcast the seam allowances after trimming
The lower armhole:  Do not press seam allowances open.  Trim the seam allowances to 3/8".  Hand overcast the seam allowances together.  The lower armhole is stressed during wear and the overcasting will strength it.
sturdy underarm seam due to hand overcasting of seam allowances
Here is a photo of progress on the beige silk tussah jacket.  All vertical seams are sewn, and the under collar is attached.
Reds, pinks and blues on a beige ground
Next comes work on the upper collar, front facings, closure, pockets and then the lining.

1 comment:

  1. This jacket is looking really good. I love to see people hand finishing seams and other areas of garments, as this is a practice I'm just getting acquainted with and frankly, falling in love with!

    I have a question for you, separate from my comment on the progress of your lovely jacket (which I'm so upset the pattern was sold out - I so wanted to participate in this sew along!)
    Do you have a good tutorial you can point me to (or any good instructions) on how to sew the lining into a pencil skirt with a kick pleat in the back? Every time I attempt this, I'm so unhappy with the results. I'm sure there are better processes for this than what I'm doing. Any help would be greatly appreciated!