Christmas Gifts 2012

Here are photos of a few garments I made to give as gifts this Christmas:

Cotton toile vintage apron

My sister loves all things french and vintage.  I found lightweight cotton toile at fabric.com.  The apron is lined with white cotton broadcloth and the waistband is navy cotton broadcloth.  The pattern is B50-5490 from evadress.com. 

Apron back view

 The apron is a little above the knee in front and just covers the hips in back.

Stretch cotton sateen biker jacket

This is a biker jacket for my niece in Arizona. A biker jacket has become a wardrobe classic.   The pattern is a modified discontinued Burda pattern.  I would like to offer a good biker jacket pattern on my blog in 2013 with instructions since it is such a popular garment.

My niece loves green anything!

My other Arizona niece needs a biker jacket as well.  Her green jacket includes yokes on the upper sleeves and satin trim above the cuffs.  The jackets are fully interfaced to help them maintain a firmer shape.  If I hadn't interfaced the jackets, they would be fine, just more casual and wrinkled during wear.  I have a third niece who is waiting for a black/gray biker jacket.

An embellished rayon/lycra tee for Grandma

My mother needs comfortable knit tops to play bridge in, and this metallic stretch rayon tee will be fine for her. I interfaced a 4" wide band of fabric, stitched it into a tube, and applied the band down center front (also interfaced with a 1/2" strip on inside) with three twists.  I machine stitched horizontal rows to hold the twists in place.


Lastly, a toddler dress for my neighbor. 

Toddler dress front view

 The dress and belt are cotton broadcloth.  The skirt features an embroidered lace overlay and ruffled slip beneath.  I placed 1/4" horsehair braid in the pink broadcloth hem for a little extra lift.   

Toddler dress back view

Merry Christmas and have a Happy New Year!

Detachable Faux Fur Collar

Here is the coat we discussed in the 12/6/12 post.  I liked this coat before but with the addition of a fur collar, I really love this coat!

How to make the detachable faux fur collar:

1.  Drape the Bodice Front panel on the coat and determine a collar shape.

2. Cut the collar out through the backing only leaving fur fibers intact.  Remove fur from 1/2" seam allowances.

 3.  Stitch 1/8" elastic loops in place.

 4. Cut out lining and interface.  I used a scrap of brown silk charmeuse with fusi-knit interfacing.  Machine stitch neck and lower edges right sides together. 

5.  Catch stitch all fur raw edges to collar to prevent collar rolling out of shape during wear.

6.  Pin outer edges of lining in place and slip stitch to fur collar.  The outer edge could be machined but I find that the collar will lay nicer if I take the time to lay it in place perfectly.

 7.  Sew buttons to inside neck edges of coat.  I have five button/loop sets:  center back and two each side.

I hand tacked the loops so they cannot fall off the buttons because I plan to remove the collar only at the end of the season to dry clean the coat.

Coat Sleeves: Set In versus Extended

Coats are investment pieces in your wardrobe.  A well made coat can last for years or decades, and be passed on to family and friends. Find a pattern that matches your skill level, select wool in the weight appropriate for your climate, and test the pattern in unbleached cotton muslin.

If you select an easy to sew pattern, the sleeve is likely to be cut as one with the bodice.  You don't have to set the sleeve in, which saves time and works well for sewers who are unfamiliar with setting a coat sleeve.  The downside is that this type of sleeve creates unattractive folds and bulk at the armhole and along the sleeve.  Observe the sleeve folds in this muslin.

All in one bodice/sleeve front

The back has similar folds and possibly extra ease in the bodice. 

Back view includes sleeve folds and excess ease in garment

I love this pattern, Butterick 5824, and I think you can sew a beautiful coat without changing the pattern at all.  The collar frames the face effectively, the nipped in waist is figure flattering, and the full skirt measures more than 18' at the hem which will create fabulous movement as you walk.  A wonderful pattern as is.  My point in analyzing the pattern is not to criticize but rather to discuss the armhole and share an easy method to reduce armhole folds by converting the pattern to a set in sleeve. 

Here are the modified pattern pieces:

Coat Front

Coat Back

The shoulder seam is dropped 1/2".  The side seam is drawn straight up.  The armhole is created either with a french curve ruler or by tracing the armhole from a pattern you already own.  I will add shoulder pads as well. 

To select a set in sleeve pattern from my stash, I need to measure the armhole at the stitching line.

The armhole measures 20 inches.  I simply go to my pattern stash and find a coat or jacket pattern with a sleeve cap that measures approximately 21 inches.

What else could I do to improve this wardrobe investment?  I think a detachable faux fur collar would be dramatic and fun.  I have a one yard panel of brown mink in my stash so please check back next week to see the result.