Tuesday, April 7, 2015

Steps 12, 13 & 14 - McCall's 6898

These are steps 12 through 14 of a tutorial for McCall's shirt 6898.  See the Blog Archive for previous steps.

Steps 12 through 14 Sleeve Tab, Sleeve Placket, Sleeve Seams
Sleeves have two different types of sleeve placket.  Below is type #1 which has no pattern pieces.  Type #2 utilizes a placket pattern which resembles a square with a chimney on top.
Type #1:
Serge to clean finish long edges of seam with placket (top of photo below).
Stitch long seam back tacking at large circle.  The lower 4" of the seam is un-stitched.  The opening is the placket. 

View of entire sleeve and seam is below.
Press seam allowance open over a ham including opening edges.
Top stitch opening edges in place from right side of garment.
Placket Type #2:
Note I am using photos from a different project to illustrate this placket.
Press under 3/8" along sides and top of placket.  Stitch right side of placket to wrong side of sleeve matching long rectangular box to placket line on pattern, shortening stitch length along top corners.  The "chimney" on the placket is towards the side of the sleeve.
sleeve placket step one
Cut down middle of stitched box and angle off to upper corners.
cut placket box open
Press placket to right side of sleeve.  You are now looking at the right side of the sleeve and the right side of the sleeve placket.
sleeve placket step two

Fold shorter side of placket in half, placing pressed edge over seam.  Stitch close to edge, ending at top of rectangular opening.
Fold chimney shaped side of placket so pressed edge covers seam.  Stitch close to edge, ending at top of rectangle.
Pin upper edge of placket to sleeve.  Stitch close to edges and along top of rectangular opening.  Press.
Sleeve Tab:
Fold tab right sides together.  Fold top edge to inside 3/8" (see right side of photo below).  Stitch 5/8" seam along bottom and side.
Trim excess seam allowance.
Turn tab right side out and press.  I top-stitched but that is optional.
I stitched the buttonhole in the tab now--much easier.
Stitch the tab to the inside of the sleeve.
Machine stitch the button to the outside of the sleeve on top of the tab connecting seam.
Stitch the remaining vertical sleeve seam in a French seam.  See step 1 for review of French seam.

The sleeves are now complete and ready for cuffs.

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