Sunday, February 17, 2013

Techniques to Raise the Quality of a Jacket

This is the third chapter of the Marfy 2762 Jacket tutorial.  The information is useful even if you are not sewing a Marfy jacket.  This post illustrates the importance of marking the garment panels well prior to sewing.  The photos show two jackets under construction:  a beige silk and a black metallic yarn. 

Mark stitching lines on all panels with tracing paper or thread and a hand sewing needle.  This is more accurate than relying on seam allowance edges that fray during the construction process.  Marked stitching lines and the use of underlining (interfacing or organza) are the most important factors in determining the quality of this jacket in my opinion.  I applied fusi knit interfacing to all garment panels of the beige jacket. 
use a ruler and tracing wheel to mark on wrong side
Use light hand pressure on the tracing wheel to avoid bleed through to the right side.
traced stitch lines are made on wrong side which is interfaced
The black jacket is underlined with silk organza.   I applied fusible interfacing to key areas that will have narrow seam allowances. The interfacing is applied to the fashion fabric, not the organza. 
the back underarm will be cut to the point; fusible interfacing is used in addition to silk organza. 
 The shoulder yoke has two sharp corners that need interfacing.
two corners interfaced, stitch lines thread traced by hand
The lining is cut from the main pattern pieces, after a few adjustments.  On the right side of the photo you see the front facing pattern over the center front pattern.  The triangular wedge needs to be added to the front princess panel.  
Here is the front princess panel lining.  The beige jacket is lined in pink stretch charmeuse.
Adjust the shoulder yoke as well by laying the shoulder yoke pattern under the front facing pattern.
I used 1/2" seam allowances on the lining and marked corners and notches with tracing paper.  The garment panels are cut with 1" seam allowances and 2" hem allowances.  I do all cutting (fashion fabric, interfacing, lining), fusing and marking before sewing a stitch.  Sewing is fast and fun with well marked panels that have been fit corrected.

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