Mark stitching lines on all panels with tracing paper or thread and a hand sewing needle. This is more accurate than relying on seam allowance edges that fray during the construction process. Marked stitching lines and the use of underlining (interfacing or organza) are the most important factors in determining the quality of this jacket in my opinion. I applied fusi knit interfacing to all garment panels of the beige jacket.
|use a ruler and tracing wheel to mark on wrong side|
|traced stitch lines are made on wrong side which is interfaced|
The black jacket is underlined with silk organza. I applied fusible interfacing to key areas that will have narrow seam allowances. The interfacing is applied to the fashion fabric, not the organza.
|the back underarm will be cut to the point; fusible interfacing is used in addition to silk organza.|
The shoulder yoke has two sharp corners that need interfacing.
|two corners interfaced, stitch lines thread traced by hand|
The lining is cut from the main pattern pieces, after a few adjustments. On the right side of the photo you see the front facing pattern over the center front pattern. The triangular wedge needs to be added to the front princess panel.