New Tutorial: Marfy 2762 Jacket

Marfy 2762 is the first new tutorial for 2013 and it is an advanced design.  Have you ever seen a jacket like this before?  The shoulder/sleeve lines remind me of a knight's armor.  The collar, center front edges, and belt create such a strong vertical line.  The shoulder and collar frame the face nicely.  The pockets sit along the hem and have round flaps that repeat the curved lines of the sleeves.  A tie belt is unexpected and relaxes the design. 

To purchase the pattern try http://shops.mccall.com/f2762-products-22790.php?page_id=3453 or http://www.marfy.it/mod.-2762-en.html.

We have discussed Marfy Italian patterns before.  They are for advanced sewers because the patterns have no guidelines, instructions, seam allowances, nor hem allowances.  Fit is close to the body and the size chart will probably tell you to go up one to two sizes above your normal European size (Burda patterns come to mind).  In Burda I work with a size 40.  In Marfy I will work with a 44. 


I could see this design in leather, boucle, textured fabrics, ikat prints, denim, anything really. My main concern is that the shoulder/sleeve panels lay smoothly and without extra fabric folds.  These are the fabrics I am considering for the jacket:

Black/gold/copper boucle type fabric

This black fabric works with the "armor" theme  due to the heavy use of metallic threads and sequins on a mid weight fabric. I like the stripes because I will be able to use them as lengthwise, crosswise and bias stripes all within one garment.  I purchased the fabric a few years ago from http://www.helenhaugheydesigns.com/Site/Photo_Gallery/Pages/Featured_Fabics.html. Helen sells a collection of very fine fabrics from New York, Italy and Paris.  I purchase fabric from Helen when I see her, but her website has a well curated selection.  The fabric is costly as it is couture.  I frequently use couture fabrics for jackets and find that couture jackets are wardrobe workhorses and last for decades. Helen has a 40% off winter fabric sale beginning February 1,2013 so check her website out or contact her to describe what you are looking for (she has inventory beyond the website).

Silk tussah from Vogue

This fabric is an ivory silk tussah with pastel pinks, blues, and greens.  The fabric says Spring 2013  to me, works in my wardrobe, and would be more casual than the black fabric.  I purchased the fabric yesterday at Vogue Fabrics in Evanston for $14.99 per yard.  I don't know if the fabric is available online, but their websites are http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/ and http://myvoguefabrics.com/. 

A test muslin will help me determine whether my fabric choices are suitable.  I plan to sew the jacket in two fabrics, at the same time, because it is efficient to make multiples of a design.  Ideally I would use the same color thread for the multiples, but that is not possible with these fabrics. 

I will analyze the test muslin in a blog post, but the construction of the jacket will be placed under the "Tutorials" Index at the upper right corner of the Home page.