Sunday, July 15, 2012

The Traditional Tailored Shirt is Finished!

Sewing Level:  Easy to Intermediate

Finally the Tailored Shirt project is finished!  
Tailored shirt with biker jacket and zipper jeans
 My summer semester students have been working on this project since late June.  The project steps are illustrated in the three part Tutorial at top right of this website.  The most useful part of the tutorial is the explanation of how to modify the shirt collar and neckband patterns to eliminate seams and improve the quality of the neckline.  Instead of cutting two collars and two neckbands, you cut one collar and one neckband.  The modified pattern pieces are much easier to sew which means you are likely to succeed at this project.  I converted center front seams to folds which reduces bulk and improves the shape of corners. 
Modified Collar and Neckband pattern pieces; the right side of the pattern pieces is placed on the fabric fold
The one piece upper/under collar is cut with the upper collar on a fold, so there is a seam at center back on the under collar.  The one piece neckband is cut with the outer neckband on a fold, so the seam moves to center back on the inside neckband.  Here is the Neckband under construction:
Collar pinned to Neckband
You could modify the cuff pattern in a similar manner.  Here are photos of the finished shirt:
Simplicity 2339 Front view

Simplicity 2339 Back view

Collar rolls smoothly; there are simple methods to achieve this! 

A traditional placket adds value to a timeless garment
The three part tutorial will be available at the top right corner of the website through August and then it will be moved into the Archive to make room for new projects. 

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