Saturday, April 11, 2015

Steps 18, 19 & 20 - McCall's 6898

Here are steps 18 through 20 in a 20 step tutorial on McCall's shirt 6898.  Please see the Blog Archive for previous steps.
Step 18 Buttonholes
Mark one or two buttonholes on the cuff.  In the photo I have marked two buttonholes, each 5/8" long and one inch apart.  The buttonholes should begin 1/2" from the short edge of the cuff, on the overlap side rather than the underlap side. 
 Stitch the cuff buttonholes.
Mark buttonholes on the right side of the shirt garment (left for men).  First mark the location of the highest buttonhole that will be buttoned closed when wearing; this is typically at the fullest part of the chest.  Space the other buttonholes 2-3" apart from the bottom of one buttonhole to the top of the next.  Each buttonhole is 1/8" longer than the button size.  Center the buttonholes on the front band.
 If you wish, add a buttonhole to the sleeve placket.
Cut open buttonholes with a buttonhole cutter or by folding buttonhole in half lengthwise and carefully cut open with scissors.
Step 19 Buttons
Determine button placement by laying right front band over left front band.  Place a pin through the cut open buttonhole 1/4 of the way down the buttonhole.  Pull the pin through the buttonhole to the left front; pin marks location you will center the button.

Buttons can be stitched on by machine or by hand.  A machine photo is to come.  To hand sew, use a double strand of thread and a hand sewing needle to attach buttons loosely to left front.  The buttons must be loose to allow for the thickness of the right front.  
Step 20 Chest Pocket

Press under 1/2" on lower and side edges of pocket.  Press lower edge first.  It helps to pin in place and iron between the pins.  In the below photo, the top raw edge should be serged to clean finish it.
Press a miter at the lower corners.
Fold top edge right sides together along 1 1/4" fold line.  Stitch and trim.
Turn pocket right side out and press. Triangles are stitched at the top of the pocket.  They are no more than 1/4" wide.
Stitching guidelines are marked with air erasable marker and ruler

To find the proper pocket placement on the chest, you will need to experiment.  If the pocket is low the bust will appear to sag.  If the pocket is too close to the side seam, the bust will appear wide.  The blouse front pattern tissue suggests the pocket be placed 1 5/8" from the front band.  Stitch the pocket in place with a 1/4" triangle at the top for strength.

Give garment a final press.  You are finished!

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