Tuesday, February 10, 2015

Simplicity 1277 Cutting, Marking, Embellishment

Clothing Construction One students at College of DuPage are sewing Simplicity 1277.  This post illustrates how to lay out the pattern pieces, embellish the side front and side back panels, and mark for construction.

7 of the 9 panels are cut from Fabric One.  Note directional layout: pattern pieces lay on the fabric as they would on the body, none upside down.

Side Front and Side Back are cut from Fabric Two. 

Cut Side Front and Side Back approximately 1" larger than the cutting lines for your size.  We will embellish these panels, then cut out the exact size we need.  The stitching embellishment will shrink the fabric panel slightly.

On right side of fabric, mark a vertical chalk line.  Mark a horizontal line perpendicular to the vertical line.  These two lines will not be stitched.  Next draw two lines that intersect the four right angles you have created.  These lines are on the bias.

Stitch along the bias chalk line.  Then stitch rows parallel to the bias chalk line.  In the above photo, one bias line has several parallel rows of stitching.  Rows need to be stitched along the second bias line as well.

This is what the decorative stitching looks like from the wrong side of the panel.

View of stitching from right side of panel.  Now the desired size can be cut from the embellished panel.

Use tracing paper to mark darts and circles.  Circles are marked with "+".  Mark notches by snipping 1/8" into the seam allowance; I have also marked the notches with chalk lines.  This is what your marked panels should look like:

Dart, notches, and circles marked on Bodice Front.  The dart leg markings are difficult to see, but they are there.

Bodice Side Fronts

Skirt Front

Front Pockets

Bodice Back

Bodice Side Back

Skirt Back

Front Facing is interfaced; there are no markings.  Neckline and armhole facings have been combined into one facing.

Back Facings; interfaced, no markings.  Neckline and armhole facings have been combined into one facing.
Construction is accurate and fast when the pattern pieces are well marked.


  1. This is going to be lovely, I love the quilting. Let's see if this comment will go through. I have had a very difficult time with getting comments to post. I am reading though!!!

  2. Rhonda,
    The quilt stitching pattern also serves as the perfect base for beading. Some of the students plan to add studs or beads to the intersection points. Multiple layers of embellishment.