|Pattern has unusual double collar piped with metal zippers|
Last December I visited the garment district in New York while on a tour hosted by Peggy Sagers, owner/designer of Silhouette Patterns. I picked up several couture fabrics and two leathers in New York. This month I am creating a blazer with the gray/gold pearlized calfskin. The calfskin is very soft, supple, and lightweight. The photo does not really do justice to the incredible color of the leather, but hopefully the finished garment photo will help.
|Pearlized gray calfskin|
|Back fit is good. Back of sleeve needs no adjustment, unlike sleeve front|
|Fit is good except for horizontal sleeve folds at elbow|
|Jacket sleeve needs to bend at a sharper angle to mimic my arm's natural position|
|Raise armhole 1 1/2"|
|Front yoke armhole needs to be raised 1 1/2"|
|Reduce cap height 1 1/2", dart out fabric at elbow to increase "bend"|
My interfacing, thread, and stitching techniques are based upon information available from two sources:
#1 Leather is for Every Body by Silhouette Patterns (http://silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/m_vidleather.htm). This one-hour video makes working with leather approachable and fun, and it is particularly useful for an intermediate sewer.
#2 The University of Fashion Sewing with Leather Series (http://www.universityoffashion.com/). This four-part series provides extensive information about sewing a leather jacket in the garment industry. The videos take several hours to watch, but they are invaluable. I took several pages of notes which really helped when it came time to start the project. Without these videos I would not have felt comfortable sewing this gray leather blazer. The information is primarily for an advanced sewer.
Following the advice of Silhouette Patterns, I decided to interface all garment panels with fusi-knit rather than the partial interfacings and cold tape utilized by the University of Fashion. The reason for this decision is that my leather is soft and thin, suitable for a blazer rather than a coat. Non-interfaced panels would not have maintained the desired garment shape. Stitch length and thread types are important, and the University of Fashion had me sewing with four different spools of thread!
|Blazer is Progressing|
The blazer is progressing well, and the leather sews beautifully. I am so glad I did my research on sewing supplies and techniques for this project.
Leather seam allowances press open well, but I wanted a crisp look so I am top-stitching with heavy thread (similar to buttonhole thread).