1933 Katharine Hepburn Vintage Jacket

1933 Katharine Hepburn Jacket, EvaDress pattern C30-5156

Vintage fashion designs from the 1930s and 1950s are usually gorgeous and this jacket is no exception.  The jacket is cropped, close fitting, and has a bold shoulder and scarf.  I obtained the pattern from EvaDress.com, my favorite source for very affordable vintage patterns.  The fabric is a black, brown, gray and beige Harris tweed purchased from a Canadian vendor at a sewing expo.  The fabric is coating rather than suiting weight, and my intention is to use the garment as outerwear. 

The top of the sleeve is open; you see the black silk sleeve lining and you would see a little of the wearer's upper arm as well.  The sleeve fits snugly from elbow to wrist which contrasts beautifully with the full shoulder.  Since I used a coating fabric, the sleeve opening has a stiffness or firmness to it.  If I used a lighter weight wool or linen, the result would be a sleeve opening that drapes down attractively. 

1933 Katharine Hepburn Jacket sleeve detail

 The sleeve is slim but you have great arm mobility thanks for an underarm sleeve gusset.

Underarm diamond shaped gusset

The neckline scarf attaches at the back and is lined.  The jacket front closes right over left, with buttonholes on the right and a hidden snap on the left.  The scarf has its own buttonholes and fastens to the jacket front sharing buttons sewn on the left side of the jacket.

Scarf and jacket front unfastened

The jacket can be sewn by a beginner if you don't plan to line the jacket nor alter the pattern.  Altering the pattern requires an understanding of pattern drafting.  I lengthened the jacket several inches, widened the garment side seams, increased the sleeve hem allowance, and added a vent allowance to the sleeve as well.  Here is the main pattern piece, altered:

EvaDress.com pattern C30-5156 jacket body

You cut two of the main pattern piece.  The two panels are seamed together at center back.  There is a dart at the center and top of the sleeve. 

Cut two of the scarf and two gussets. 

EvaDress.com pattern C30-5156 pattern pieces

This garment is a wonderful opportunity to use large ornate buttons.  I used six 1 1/4" silver and crystal buttons from my stash.  The buttons were $4 each but I caught a sale and paid $2.  Also consider using light weight fabrics rather than coating.  

Vintage patterns are sized small.  I used a size 16 patten which corresponds to a 34" bust and 28" waist.  I added two inches to the jacket width since the jacket is outerwear, but it is still snug.  Don't hesitate to go up a size or two, especially if you don't know how to alter the pattern.  The sleeve fit is similarly slim; there is room for a thin blouse but not a bulky sweater.  If you go up a few sizes, you can decrease the shoulder width by stitching a wider sleeve dart. 

This jacket will be great over a pencil skirt, wool trousers, or torn up jeans.  Next I need to find a copy of the original movie Katharine Hepburn wore this jacket in!

QuickStuff to Sew Winter 2012

 The winter 2012 issue of Quick Stuff to Sew:  25 Fast & Fun Projects is now on sale on magazine racks and online at http://store.threadsmagazine.com/quick-stuff-to-sew-034025.html.  The magazine is great because the projects are beautiful, useful and easy to sew.  Clothing, accessories, and home decor projects are featured.  See page 18 for the article 'Quick Pleats:  Sew a designer-inspired skirt from pleated fabric panels.'  I had so much fun creating the skirt, writing and working with the magazine editors.  I cannot reprint the article on this website but I want you to know the magazine is available.

A recent Nine West boot ad features a hip pleated skirt (photo below).  The skirt has crystals heat fixed to the top of the skirt to imply a tiered belt.  Embellishment is on trend this winter so consider trying this on a pleated skirt or garment you already own.  You can purchase similar crystals at http://www.kandicorp.com/.  Happy sewing!

Pants with Pizzazz

Sewing Level:  Intermediate

Women wear pants more than skirts or dresses, often for comfort and convenience.  If you are going to wear comfortable pants, they need to fit great and be cut in a shape that works with your particular figure variations.  Great fit enhances a woman's appearance and is achieved by cutting a pant pattern out of unbleached cotton muslin and basting the seams together.  The muslin pant is analyzed for fit problems and the necessary changes are made to the pattern.  The actual pant is then quickly sewn out of fashion fabric with no delays or ripping due to fit problems.  If you really want to use your time well, sew three or four pairs of pants at the same time!  There are many books available that will assist you in fit correcting a pant pattern.  My favorite is 'Trouser Draft' by Kenneth D. King.

For these pants, I chose a pattern with slant front pockets.  I added a seam down the center of the pant front.  Then I cut the side front panel in an attractive curve shape. The upper side front panel is called a hip inset.  Seam allowances are added each time a seam is added to a pattern. I used gray cotton/lycra sateen bottom weight fabric for the pants, and Swiss lace scraps laid over the gray inset. The pants are fun, flattering and wearable.  The pattern work is illustrated at the end of this article. 

Wide tuxedo stripe adds style

Next time I make a pair of pants I plan to add a wide tuxedo stripe to the side seam similar to these ALC pants.  It appears the front hip yoke features contrast fabric to match the stripe. To create the stripe, I would cut a 4" wide bias strip of fabric, the strip length equal to the side seam length plus seam and hem allowances.  The strip needs to be cut on the bias if the pants are close fitting.  If you sew wide legged trousers you could cut the strip on the lengthwise grain as well.  Fold the 4" strip in half with wrong sides together.  Baste the strip to the pant back side seam.  Once the side seam is sewn, press the strip to the pant front and edge stitch in place.  If you turn the strip to the pant back, you will make your body look wider which is usually undesirable. 

Designers are showing pants in brocades and metallic threads which are a relief from reliable denim.  Brocades tend to not have stretch so you will need to choose a somewhat looser style to be comfortable wearing the pants.  Add an inset or tuxedo stripe while you are creating your next pair of great pants.

Pattern work for hip inset:

1.  Start with Pant Front

 2.  Cut Pant Front in half and add curved inset lines

3.  Add seam allowances where you added seams.  Finished!

By the way, all the pattern companies draft their pant patterns differently.  I like Burda pant patterns best for their nice crotch shape.