Wednesday, May 2, 2012

Fantasia Jacket #518 by Kayla Kennington patterns (kaylakennington.com)

Sewing Level:  Intermediate

This jacket is made from rectangles, triangles and squares rather than familiar bodice pattern pieces. The rectangles form the body panels, and the triangles create fullness below the waist.  The squares trim the cuffs.   I used a sheer voile made of 30% silk 70% cotton, purchased from thaisilks.com.  The pattern instructions include Kayla's unique seaming technique using a threee-thread rolled-hem edge done on a serger and connected with a zig-zag stitch.  You need to add 1/4" seam allowances to the 25 pattern pieces when cutting out.  Label each piece as you cut to avoid confusing them.  If you don't have access to a serger, the garment can be sewn on a regular sewing machine.  A very fun project to sew. 

You can add a triangular godet to any garment that has vertical seams.  The hem edges of the godet should be cut on the bias for maximum soft draping. 
The back features a longer three layer godet that implies a bustle or a long tail coat.  I would wear this blouse with black denim jeans or a pencil skirt.

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