Monday, June 8, 2015

Spring 2015 Dior Jacket

I love the diagonal line of buttons on this embroidered linen jacket.
While I like the entire outfit, I do not wish to make it.  I would like to make a more traditional-style blazer that does not cut away to reveal my abdomen (you guess the reason).  I will also omit the colorful embroidery.  Sometimes I duplicate a designer garment closely, but this time I am taking inspiration only from the buttons and buttonholes.  I am looking for year-round wearability in a casual but unique jacket.

I purchased very bleached out cotton denim from Fabric.com.  It is light blue, but barely.  No holes or rips though.  Denim makes great jackets; they go with everything.
Any blazer style will work but I like the large lapel on Silhouette #1953.  I will place buttons and buttonholes along the lower edge of the right lapel from lapel corner to where side seam meets hem.  Here is the jacket muslin:
Fit is good but I will add a little more ease in the hip area, 1-2" total.  The pattern uses 1" shoulder pads, but I have placed much thinner pads under the muslin.  It is easy to make me look broad-shouldered, so I am opting for a smaller pad.  I will have to adjust the angle of the shoulder seam, making no change at the neck but stitching an additional 1/4" at the armhole. 
extra room because of the small shoulder pad
I may raise the underarm a little bit, perhaps 1/2".  I want to fit layers under the jacket so I won't overdo the close fit.  Fit in back is fine.
It feels so nice to be sewing for enjoyment again.  Many of you noticed my absence from blogging January-May 2015.  My graduate school commitments kept me busy.  I am looking forward to graduation end of June, and a more manageable schedule once again.  I earned a masters in special education, and endorsements in Spanish and bilingual education.  Please wish me luck as I search for a new teaching position in special education or bilingual education!

6 comments:

  1. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out. The inspiration garment is lovely.

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  2. I'm looking forward to seeing your jacket. I also like and appreciate that you show the detail of your sewing process - and it's a reminder to me to make muslins.

    Best of luck in your job search and congratulations on achieving your masters!

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  3. Good luck to you!!! What a fantastic accomplishment!

    I love the dress and that McCalls blouse!

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  4. This is a fun project because I am taking a detail from the inspiration project and creating a garment that will have a very different vibe, perhaps slightly vintage. Thanks for reading, and also thanks for the kind words about my new degree--it was hard to go back to school after many years away. I learned so much, and I am grateful for the experience.

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  5. The jacket is certainly coming along beautifully! And congrats on earning your degree. I wish you all the best as you search for a position in your new field.

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    1. Thanks, Tomasa. Applying for interesting new jobs is exciting but it is a challenge to keep my spirits up when I don't get a job offer. Fortunately I have sewing and friends like you for enjoyment and balance.

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