Simplicity 1277 Garment Construction, Part One of Three

 Step 1 Stay stitching

2.0 stitch length, stitch back neck from shoulder to center back, just less than 5/8" from cut edge

Bodice Front-start stitching at shoulder, continue to center front and stop there

Half the front neckline is stay stitched

Start at other front shoulder, stitch to center front, overlapped other side's stitching by 1"

Bodice Front Neckline stay stitched

Step 2 Skirt Back darts 

Pin darts horizontally.  Stitch on traced line beginning at widest part of dart.  Pull pins out before you stitch over them.

No matter how the dart stitching line is marked, stitching along the last 3/4" must be very close to the fold to avoid a pucker or dimple.

Stitch off the fold at dart point

Stitch 3-5 stitches along fold 1" above dart point; no back stitching!

Stitched dart

Step 3 Press darts

Each Skirt Back has two darts stitched

Press one dart flat

Press second dart flat

Lay Skirt Back on ham.  Press darts to center back

If you press darts on right side of fabric, use a ham and a press cloth.

Step 4 Join Bodice Back to Skirt Back

Straight stitch from center back to large dot, 2.5 stitch length, 5/8" seam allowance.  Back tacking at circle is very important.

Press open on ham, serge raw edges.  Also serge center back seam from neck to hem.

Pin Bodice Side Back to back unit.  Stitch from large circle at waist to lower edge, back tacking at start and finish.

Stitch top portion of seam being careful to meet stitching at circle exactly.  Carefully back tack at the circle.

Press seam allowances flat first

Then press seam allowances towards garment.  Do not crush or flatten dart area.  Serge raw edges together.

View from right side of garment

Step 5 Garment Front

Stitch Bodice Front dart.  The 3/4" near the point must be stitched very close to the fold.

Horizontal bust dart stitched.  Press darts flat, then down, using ham.

Bodice Front no longer lays flat; shape is built in with the darts

Stitch Bodice Front to Skirt Front between circles, back tacking at both ends

Press seam allowance open and serge raw edges

Pin pockets to Skirt Front matching circles.  Stitch between circles, back tacking at both ends.

Press pocket up toward seam allowance

Lay Bodice Side Front in position, matching notches and circles

Stitch on this side so you can see the pocket joining seam.  You must stitch exactly to the joining seam without crossing it.  See next photo.